Do You Know A Better Way To Strip Paint

I have had to strip Paint from furniture in the past and used a product called Kleen Strip. It yields good results but is nasty to get on hands or exposed skin.

I have a panel & glazed door with 7 or 8 coats of paint to remove. The Big Box Home Store recommended the thickened variety. On a test area 9" x9:" one application took off two coats, second application took two or three more. Too slow.

Next tried applying a generous coat of the thick goo, covered with a piece of plastic which had been the liner of a cereal box. Not a clear plastic wrap but a thicker, tougher, and semi-transparent material which I expected would contain the solvents.
It did and after letting it work for about one and a half hours the solvent had penetrated to the wood and the paint came up fairly easily.

Citristrip. Works great, smells good, easy to handle.

You’re correct-the older stuff, although very effective, contained methylene chloride, a suspected carcinogen.

Peel-Away comes in a variety of formulations. For technical information on the different flavors, consult the Dumond Chemicals web page.

One word of caution-if the surfaces you are stripping are believed to be of 1978 vintage or older, the residue may contain lead. Please observe all precautions explained on the EPA website.

Try a big honkin’ heat gun.

…Or start with a scraper blade.

Neither Peelaway nor Citristrip is available locally. :frowning:

I have to use what I have on hand or a heat gun or both on circa 1955 door.

As for the lead hazard. It is highly over exagerated by the “Chickn Little,” ‘The Sky Is Falling’ EPA. Their idea of hazards is “Zero Tolerance.” My dad did some, more than incidental, painting using old fashioned “Dutch Boy” white lead and boiled linseed oil. He lacked 8 hours of his 93rd birthday when he died. :slight_smile:

Just use the heat gun on High…Best results and timely. that chemical stuff is to darn messy…and in my opinion doesn’t to that good of a job…why not use the heat gun with a scraper, then a belt sander to finish the job?

Try this stuff.

I’ve used it with great results before.

Here’s the rest of the web site.

Try the heat gun/scraper first and see if that gets most of it off. If mess is an option, you can use a wire brush on a power drill to get large loose chunks off then go with the 3M product to get in the cracks and grain. Good thing about the 3M stuff is it doesn’t smell, you can use it in an enclosed room, it sticks to anything you apply it to, and it comes off with plain old warm water.

Have fun.

3M Safest Stripper has worked for me. No obvious aftereffects, even after using it in less-than-well-ventilated circumstances.

Get a box of washing soda from the laundry section of any supermarket. Wearing rubber gloves, make a thick paste with water. Apply to walls. Let sit for 6 hurs, spraying with water occasionally to keep damp.

After six hours, scrape off paste and paint, which will have loosened by then. Spray walls with white vinegar and wipe to remove any residue. Repeat if necessary.

Washing soda is very strong but non-toxic and odorless.

Thanks to each and every one for their helpful suggestions which I will keep all of them on record for future use when the occassion arises.

I cleaned off all of the flat surfaces of one side a paneled door with 6 panes of glass in about 2 1/2 hours with the heat gun on low and a 1" scraper. Low heat gave the best control.

I had attempted to use a 4" x 6" radiant heater with scraper built in to remove paint from house siding quite a few years ago. Results were erratic as it was heat and scrape in one movement and there was little if any control. The hand held heat gun and separate scraper permits control of both heat and scraping.