Dog food thread. What should we be feeding them? BARF? Iams? Snacks? Rawhides? Et al

Inspired by this thread, there seems to be way too much conflicting and underwritten information on what constitutes good food for dogs and what will probably kill them immediately.

Currently, we’ve got our pug and our Olde English Bulldogge (yeah, I made the ties for 'em) on Iams Proactive which our vet at Banfield says is fine.

Now, some people and vets, insist on the BARF (raw foods) diet, or one of the myriads of other products which use the holistic/homeopathic routes, and some are good with just Purina.

A couple other things (rumors) I’ve heard are:

  1. Correlations between quality of food and fillers and amount of poop.
  2. That pig ears and rawhide chews are some of the worst things one could give a dog.
  3. That the recipe on the dog food ingredients should be chicken or beef first, and if it’s chicken byproduct or chicken meal that means it’s 15% less meat than it would be with just the single word.
  4. That corn adds protein on the label but none for the dog.

I’m sure there are other rumors that we can think of. So what should we be feeding our furry fellas?

Here’s what I’ve found when it comes to dog food: nobody knows shit.

My neighbors have three dogs and they switched over to a raw food diet. The dogs look perfectly healthy, but they produce the rankest poo you have ever smelled. They also have a habit of pissing or shitting in the house even though they’ve all been housebroken for years. But is it their diet? Who knows? You can find examples and counterexamples for all the different types of food and snacks out there.

So I don’t really put much thought into it and just feed my dog what she likes (Science Diet) and supplementing it with a variety of snacks (including rawhides). As far as I (and my vet) can tell, she’s perfectly healthy too.

Many if not all of the things you list as rumors are not - studies have shown for example that some kibbles have so many fillers and indigestible stuff that the dogs poop out almost as much as they take in.

However, what you feed your dog and what he will do well on depends on the size, overall health (genetic) and activity level of that dog. I essentially had to give up feeding commercial dog food and switched to raw because I couldn’t keep my working dogs in any sort of good condition. There just wasn’t enough in the way of usable nutrition in any of the kibbles I tried so unless I was feeding them massive amounts of food, they would be underweight with blah coats.

This was many years ago and I understand that there are now kibbles on the market that are almost as good as feeding real food, but since feeding raw is cheaper and I believe in “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, I haven’t tried any of them. I have a short list of kibbles I recommend people don’t use, but that’s it.

Oh, I don’t know anything about rawhides or pigs ears - those things are unbelievably messy so I’ve never used them! :smiley:

I’ve got my dogs on Royal Canin

One of them recently had to have some bladder stones removed and is now permanently on Iams prescription diet which is basically the same as your basic dog food plus/minus whatever makes it prescription to prevent the stones.

I believe feeding raw or feeding a high quality kibble can both be legitimate options.

Mainly what I wanted to say in the other thread though, is that I believe a *good *breeder; a breeder who’s been involved with dogs in general and with your breed in specific and shows and works their dogs, etc., is an expert on that breed, and their opinion should be given a great deal of weight, even above a vet’s. A vet may see a few dogs of a specific breed over their career; for rarer breeds not even that. A breeder who is dedicated to the care and well being of their dogs will see dozens and dozens of those dogs, every day, for years. You just can’t match that kind of accumulated knowledge. And when you are talking about a breed who has feeding issues, like Danes can, I think a breeder is more qualified to tell you how to raise that puppy that a vet is, because they have done it so many times. And since a good breeder will have a guarantee on the pups, in is in their financial interest as well to ensure that your puppy doesn’t have feeding problems; much more so than a vet.

Vets are wonderful for health issues, but for day to day care, most are no more experts in dogs than any owner, especially when it comes to rare breeds or breeds with specialized care.

Dog diets and child raising are two topics on which everyone has an opinion, they’re right and everyone else is not only wrong, but also benighted, and possibly evil.

Vancouver is dreadful for this. You’d take the dog for a walk, and there would be a quiz about what you were feeding the dog, at the end of which you felt like scum. I started fucking with people after a while, and telling them ‘table scraps and whatever he can forage - he’s on a freegan diet’.

I remember reading somewhere that one of the reasons for fillers (other then to keep the apparent cost down) was to make the dog eat more. People see their dog eating tons of this new food and think it must mean they love it. What they don’t realize is that the actual reason for the dog eating twice as much is because that’s how much the dog needs to feel full or to get enough nutrition into it’s body if the new food is just various meals and byproducts.

One of the things I learned is not to think of expensive dog foods as expensive but rather think of cheap dog foods as cheap.
FTR, I pay about $29-$32 for a 15 pound bag of Royal Canin (plus I get the 11th bag free at my store).

I’m feeding Kimber Iams proactive, no human food. She gets as much rawhide as she wants and stuff like pig ears as treats.

We fed my previous Springer Purina. We also fed her table scraps. For the last few years of her life we had to prepare her chicken and rice, it was the only safe food due to her colitis. At 11 she was lethargic & in pain. We treated her with Rimadyl but she became jaundiced and still seemed miserable so we put her to sleep.

We feel we hastened her demise by feeding table scraps, the colitis was almost certainly our fault and probably contributed to her liver problems.

The experience made me a little leery of a raw food diet for a non-working dog. Obviously chicken and rice is pretty low impact but I think a high-protien, low-corn kibble is the safest, it’s what my vet recommends.

The arguments for a raw food diet are persuasive though, it seems logical.

Kirkland dog food has a lot of corn so dogs eat a ton of it and poop like crazy. Western Family cat food was linked to a ton of urinary tract infections in our area, so much so that all the local vets told people to stay away from WF pet food.

My puppies are both eating Blue Buffalo dry food. We went through multiple options before we found a food that fit our requirements:

  1. Mojo must not throw it up regularly. He’s got a sensitive stomach and yet will eat anything that isn’t nailed down.
  2. Kaia must eat it. She is a picky picky princess.
  3. Must not cost more than our monthly mortgage payment
  4. And finally the wishy washy requirement - must not feel like I’m feeding them garbage.

The first two caused us the most trouble, we experimented with 5 or 6 different foods when Kaia first joined us before we found one that worked. Then they went out of business and I cried. The second time through the trial process it only too a couple before we found Blue Buffalo and we’ve been happy with it ever since. I’ve had a couple of OMG moments when the store moved it to a different aisle and I thought they’d stopped carrying it.

We’d tried god knows how many brand of kibble – everything from California Naturals at $32/bag to the Kirkland brand (which both my dogs got sick on, btw) – and guess which brand agrees with them the most? Rachael Ray’s beef and brown rice Nutrish. Reasonably priced, too.

I’ve fed primarily raw for over 12 years and think it’s great but I don’t think everybody “should” feed this way, it just works for me. The idea of feeding nothing but dehydrated commercial pellets just seems bizarre now.

In over 12 years of feeding raw to multiple dogs (mostly whole parts, or whole animals) I’ve never had one choke on a bone. However I had a really scary choking incident when a Rottweiler puppy choked on the knot off the end of a rawhide bone he’d chewed off, so I don’t do rawhides any more. Or cow hooves or pig ears (except for fresh ones.)

Keep pellets on hand, for fosters or if I space out defrosting something. I can’t bring myself to buy kibble with stuff like gluten, brewers rice, animal digest, etc. So I stick to higher quality brands like Solid Gold, Innova and such. I believe that a varied diet - even just switching kibble types, and some appropriate “people food” is best for most dogs.

My vet when I started feeding this way was an old country vet and apart from a legitimate concern that I be very careful to get proportions right for a puppy, he thought it was just fine. My current vet had some vague concern about food poisoning initially, but over time (and with an increasing number of clients who feed this way) he no longer worries. In fact he told me he thought it was probably an “optimal” diet for a dog, as long as it’s done sensibly.

The “better” foods might be more expensive, but since they are more nutritionally dense, you don’t need to feed as much. And better food produces tiny firm poops. My Rottweiler can eat an entire goat leg and poop out a little odorless thing the size of a small mouse the next day. :smiley:

[quote=“stpauler, post:1, topic:598805”]

Inspired by this thread, there seems to be way too much conflicting and underwritten information on what constitutes good food for dogs and what will probably kill them immediately. /QUOTE]

That is one of the few true statements about dog food on the internet. You have to remember, much of the discussion of dog foods originates with somebody selling something. Many of the more expensive foods are distributed by small, part time reps. Now there is nothing wrong with hustling a little to make a nickel. If you don’t believe in a product, you shouldn’t be selling it.

There are always those that knock the competition. Maybe not nice, but as long as you are honest, acceptable. Half truths? ‘‘Dogs can’t digest corn’’ Well straight off the ear, neither can I. Ground and processed? Yes both humans and dogs can derive many nutriments from it. Many dog do very well on such brands as Purina, Pedigree, and Old Roy that are largely corn.

The point about corn and allergies is a common cheap shot. Yes, corn is the leading cause of allergies. It is also the leading ingredient in dog foods. If you are going to avoid it and everything else as bad, you dog is going to starve to death. Chicken is about as bad as corn and beef is worse. Constantly bringing it up shows the complete lack of good arguments for grain free foods.

Cite?

http://jn.nutrition.org/cgi/content/full/134/8/2141S#top

The one paper from the Journal of Nutrition suggests the larger, softer stools are mostly just more moisture

While their fat content is a threat to the pancreas, blockage of the air way or intestine is a more immediate threat.

The opposite. Meal is dry weight, meat is with the moisture. Meal includes all the highly nutritious organ meats that a predator eats first when it makes a kill. There are places that have the FDA or AAFCO definations of all this stuff, but I don’t have the link handy.
More links?

http://www.avma.org/avmacollections/obesity_dogs/javma_219_5_601.pdf Homemade

http://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/ResourcesforYou/AnimalHealthLiteracy/ucm204796.htm bones

http://www.dogsincanada.com/pet-food-facts-and-fallacies

Pet Food Nutrition Myths | myths

book http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/01/health/01brod.html

http://www.skeptvet.com/index.php?p=1_12_Raw-Veterinary-Dietshtm raw

http://www.avma.org/onlnews/javma/jan05/050115ww.asp raw

http://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/NewsEvents/FDAVeterinarianNewsletter/ucm093853.htm FDA-raw

If your dogs are doing well on Iams and you aren’t into organic or alternative diets your self, stick to it. Note, your dog needs cider vinegar just as much as you do.

I have fed Purina and Iams and my dogs did well on them. I feed Pro Plan now. My dogs are doing fine on it, and I really have seen thousands of other dogs eating it, fine, healthy looking lot.

There was a very noticeable decrease in the amount and smell of the poop when we switched from mid-grade kibble to bones and raw meat. Also, a huge decrease in stinky breath and no need for the vet to clean his teeth, either. My 2 cents worth.

Oh my. This could be a good discussion, I hope. :slight_smile: Where to start?

First of all, I want to clarify that I specifically said in the other thread I do not recommend feeding raw to a PUPPY. While it is true I do not actively ADVOCATE feeding raw diets to grown dogs, I acknowledge it can be done as part of a balanced diet, if someone is willing to work really, really hard at it, and if everyone involved understands the very real risks of transmission of very serious pathogens such as Salmonella and E. coli to others in the household. But a puppy does not have a well developed immune system and is not ready for such a challenge, and so my statement still stands—I don’t recommend feeding raw meat to a puppy. In addition to bacteria, a baby is also quite a bit more susceptible to protozoan infections such as Toxoplasma gondii and Neospora caninum. And yes, raw fed puppies have presented with ataxia, hind end weakness, cardiomyopathy and then dropped dead due to Neospora so I am not making it up. And before you make the argument that dogs do not become ill with Salmonellosis, this is precisely the cause in most cases of “garbage gut” seen by veterinarians when your pooch eats something he should not and gets a case of diarrhea and vomiting. Other causes include Campylobacter, which is also zoonotic (i.e. you can get it).

I guess I’ll prove my “cred” by telling you what I already know about BARF so you can then decide if I am talking from a place of ignorance or enlightenment. Dr. Ian Billinghurst popularized the bones and raw foods diet and suggested it consist of 60% raw, meaty bones and 40% be made up of a wide variety of foods “the type and quantity of foods a wild dog would eat” such as “lots of green vegetables (to mimic stomach contents of prey), some offal (liver, kidneys, etc.), meat, eggs, milk, brewer’s yeast, yogurt, and small amounts of grain and legumes.” As I understand it, the meal plan itself is balanced overall, but each meal itself is not balanced, and herein lies the problem. Getting the micronutrient balance correct is a near impossibility, and this can have serious, serious consequences.

In particular, the major issue I have with the BARF diet is that it is very difficult to balance nutrients so that the calcium to phosphorus ratio is proper on a high meat diet. This is not to say it CANNOT be done, only that it is very DIFFICULT. Meat is phosphorus heavy, and unless the dog is consuming HUGE volumes of bones—actually consuming them, and even then we have not determined the bioavailability of the calcium in consumed bones—the calcium to phosphorus ratio is quite likely to be inverted, leading to a whole host of developmental and metabolic issues. There is just no way to make up for this with vegetables. Nutrient analyses of these diets have found them to often be deficient OR excessive in many nutrients, typically either too low or too high in magnesium, zinc, much too high in vitamin E, too low in iron and manganese, too much vitamin D, too little potassium, and possibly calorie deficient. Many essential amino acids are often out of balance as well, especially linoleic acid. In addition to nutrient excesses and deficiencies, there is risk of mechanical blockage, GI perforation, and aspiration from the feeding of bones. This is the same problem I have with the feeding of rawhides, by the way. Most of the emergency abdominals we did at vet school were rawhide related.

Dogs are NOT just domesticated wolves (it appears to be the other way around). Anyone who maintains they are might find this paper interesting: Science. 1997 Jun 13;276(5319):1687-9. Multiple and ancient origins of the domestic dog.VilàC, Savolainen P, Maldonado JE, Amorim IR, Rice JE, Honeycutt RL, Crandall KA, Lundeberg J, Wayne RK.Department of Biology, University of California, Los Angeles, CA 90095-1606, USA.

“Mitochondrial DNA control region sequences were analyzed from 162 wolves at 27 localities worldwide and from 140 domestic dogs representing 67 breeds. Sequences from both dogs and wolves showed considerable diversity and supported the hypothesis that wolves were the ancestors of dogs. Most dog sequences belonged to a divergent monophyletic clade sharing no sequences with wolves. The sequence divergence within this clade suggested that dogs originated more than 100,000 years before the present. Associations of dog haplotypes with other wolf lineages indicated episodes of admixture between wolves and dogs. Repeated genetic exchange between dog and wolf populations may have been an important source of variation for artificial selection.”

Dogs have evolved as very distinct animals, and are omnivores, not carnivores. They have no obligate need for meat at all (UNLIKE cats), in fact, and thrive on a variety of foods. As a point of fact, the top allergenic foods in dogs are, in order: beef (35%), dairy (20%), wheat (15%), chicken (8.6%), egg, lamb, soy, corn (2.5%), pork, fish, rice. So the much maligned corn is one of the least likely allergens, while beef is the number one cause of food allergy in dogs.

This is getting too long, so I won’t address anything else in this particular post except to say that those questioning my motives in the other thread really ought to learn a bit about me first. I happen to be a housecall practitioner, so I don’t sell ANY food in my practice. I actually prefer to formulate home cooked diets, truth be told (except puppies). However, I do not think that Hills is the anti-christ, either, and they do make some very good foods that meet some very specific patient needs. Believing otherwise is foolhardy and based on prejudice.

I am a holistic practitioner, to boot. I specialize in nutrition, pain management (acupuncture before drugs, as a matter of fact), hospice care, birth to geriatric care, and wellness and preventative care. I have a vested interest in making sure to tailor my recommendations to an individual patient’s needs because I depend entirely on repeat business and word of mouth, so I spend a lot of time researching the best available methods and means available to help each patient. I take my job very seriously. If I believed my given patient would best thrive on a raw fed diet, or my client really wanted me to help formulate one, that is what I would, and have done, with the appropriate cautions.

I also happen to believe there are indeed some very good breeders out there who may know a lot about a given breed. However, I would caution one who thinks taking veterinary advice from someone who has experience with a breed is the same as having attended veterinary medical school. It isn’t. I can’t speak for others, but my education consisted of quite a lot of nutrition, and we have 5 Board Certified Veterinary Nutritionists on faculty. I took advanced elective courses in addition to our already quite extensive curriculum and feel very confident I received a top notch education in the nutrition of not just dogs, but cats, horses, and cattle as well. And not one course was given by a pet food rep, thank you very much. But feeding is about a lot more than knowing a breed, and if you’d like to get into the medical aspects, we can do that, too.

When I took my mixed breed, horribly behaved dog to a trainer, we talked food. Her basic advice was to try to find food that lists meat as at least the first two ingredients. I looked at lots and lots of different foods, from cheapest to out-of-my-range expensive, and found Rachel Ray foods were the only affordable ones that listed meat as the first two. I kept my dogs on it for a long time; they loved it and are all really healthy. Then a few months ago I bought an enormous bag of Purina at Sam’s, because it was cheap and things were a little tight. The dogs love it as well, and my boxer actually gained a little weight and looks even better than he did. (He tends to run skinny.) So that’s what we’re doing for now, although they get a lot of supplemental veggies, bones, etc in addition to their kibble.

Something to note about Rachel Ray’s Nutrish–as well as any other food you want to evaluate. Look on the bag for an AAFCO statement. It will say one of two things:

  1. This food has been formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for all life stages of a dog

or

  1. This food has passed feeding trials set by AAFCO standards…

Rachel Ray’s food only claims the first. You want a food that claims the second. The difference is that a food that has passed feeding trials has actually been fed to laboratory animals for a significant period of time and proven to actually meet their nutritional needs via blood tests and, you know, they thrived. In the first instance, the food merely meets theoretical guidelines outlined based on feeding trials done on other foods. So no dog has ever been fed that food prior to marketing and been proven to thrive on it. It might have been fed only to prove a dog liked the taste, but none had to thrive on it.

So while meat might be listed as the “first” ingredient, that means absolutely nothing in terms of nutritional content. It is just good marketing. As your boxer has shown, he is doing better on the Purina, as is your budget. I’d leave him on the Purina.

My Mojo is a finicky eater with a delicate stomach, so he is the arbiter of what all three get fed. Of the three dogs, one is a working police K9 (Belgian malinoise), one is a retired K9 (German shepherd,) and one is a pure pet (Great Pyrenees, was supposed to be a foster, but he kept coming home.)

Three big dogs can put a strain on the budget, so we experimented with different foods. ($50 per bag was okay with just Mojo to feed. Not so much when the other two joined the family.) Now we feed Purina One Lamb and Rice. All three like it, and we’ve had no allergy or digestive problems.

Those are much higher for beef etc. than I have seen elsewhere. Where did they come from? I can see variation due to the difficulty of accurate data collection. They are pecentages of the dogs eating the ingredient? I find it frustrating that I like to rely on well designed, controlled studies, but like most dog owners, I am not a member of the AVMA. This means I only have access to dribbles and drabs of the better information. And sometimes I struggle to understand what little I do find. I am finding your posts enlightening.

I’ll go with BARF as the best. Both of my dogs are doing amazing on it; I believe it vastly extended the life of my older dog, who will soon be 15 (she acted much older, was quite ill and in pain from old injuries age 8, while still on kibble - after two months raw she started running again for the first time since her accident). My other, large dog is at least 11 and very energetic with no health problems except mild arthritis, which should be much worse since he has an artificial elbow. They don’t need teeth cleaning at all, they don’t have stinky breath and their poop is small, firm, and hardly smells.

Furthermore, when they get ahold of grain-based foods they have bad reactions. I could never feed them commercial dog ‘food’ without feeling I was deliberately poisoning them.

Exactly. This is particularly true when the breeder has been working with one line for 35+ years, as I have so I will have more experience with dogs from my line than essentially anyone else in the world. Add to that the fact that I have a rare breed, and 99% of vets are going to be without a clue as to what would be the best thing to feed a dog I bred. And, many times what vets see in the way of purebred dogs either aren’t actually purebred or are poorly bred, because well bred, well taken care of dogs don’t need to go to the vet for anything other than altering and shots. Unfortunately, far too many of them are like human drs - they think they are gods.

That could be true! I haven’t really spent that much time looking at kibbles in the last 10 years or so, but I do know that fillers are in there for reasons other than nutrition.

Don’t beat yourself up over that - I’ve known many dogs with colitis who were fed only kibble.