It stops during a cycle and won’t start again. It has power. Maybe the motor is going bad and it works after it cools down? It’s around 7 years old, Maytag.
Motor may be full of lint, blocking it’s cooling airflow and causing it to overheat.
Most dryers have a couple of thermal fuses in them. Some are non-resetting (if you blow them, you need to buy a new fuse). Some are resetting, and the dryer will work again once it cools down. Since the OP implies that the dryer works after cooling down, you might be triggering a thermal fuse.
You could have a bad fuse, but the much more likely cause is just lint buildup, either in the exhaust vent or inside the dryer itself (or both). If the exhaust is clear then you may need to open up the dryer and vacuum all of the lint out of it.
It could be the motor itself overheating, as beowulff said, which might be due to lint or might be due to the motor starting to go bad.
Cleaning the lint out usually isn’t too difficult. Troubleshooting where the circuit is turning off requires a bit of electrical knowledge. Usually there’s a schematic diagram tucked inside the dryer somewhere, and the basic troubleshooting method is to take a multimeter, start at where the power comes in, and just keep poking around along the circuit paths so that you can see how far the power is getting.
If you do not have experience with electricity and aren’t comfortable poking around with a voltmeter, I do not recommend doing this yourself.
thanks I won’t mess with it except to clean it. this also happened a few months ago. I guess maybe running 3 or 4 loads in a row causes it . If it needs a new motor I will hire a pro for that.
I agree with ecg that the problem is likely a resetable thermal switch fuse that is tripping due to over-temperature, which in turn is due to lint buildup.
I also have a Maytag dryer. About once a year I remove the drum and thoroughly vacuum the innards. It’s an old dryer, so it’s pretty simple to do this. Newer ones such as yours may be more difficult to disassemble.
In addition to cleaning the inside of the dryer, make sure the exhaust duct-work is clean.
It dries fast so I think the duct is clean but I will check it. I had a dryer that was slow to dry in the past and it was a dirty duct to the outside so we got that cleaned.
Because of the way the @#%& builder built these houses, I *can't* clean my dryer duct unless I want to spend lots of to punch holes in the ceiling to replace the flexible vinyl ducting (#1) that they used. I brought in a duct cleaning company & they refused to do it; said they’d make it worse, not better because they’d probably punch a hole in the vinyl. - I always respect a business that turns down a job because they can’t do it right.
Therefore, I am fastidious about cleaning out the lint trap; at least once per load & sometimes even two or three times. When the thermal fuse went on my dryer a few months ago, I pulled the dryer out, removed the back cover & replaced it. I was aghast at how much lint there was inside the body of the dryer. As much as it’s a PITA to do, I’ll do that every so often now just for the fire safety aspect of it.
It won’t let me change from normal to wrinkle control unless I turn it off and back on. Is that a bug or a feature? Can’t see why it would be a feature.
if it’s stopping during its on time and the only thing that it takes is to let it sit for awhile, it’s the motors own, built in thermal protection.
redo your dryer ducting that is inadequate that you’d mentioned.
don’t over load your dryer (if you are).
do expect the motor to act up more frequently.
do plan on it failing in the future.
(the way you use it can alter its remaining life. it seems when they start shutting off on their limit though, failure is inevitable)