Does anyone have an explanation why a door would stop partially open? The track seems clear, but it stops when open about three feet.
Lubrication? Check the screw gear/chains as well as the casters in the door. Use only the type of lube the door manufacturer recommends on the lift part.
I ran out of WD-40 before I got any one the track. What lubrication is recommended? This is 60 years old, with no manufacturer name on any of the parts.
Thanks, ftg.
WD-40 is a TERRIBLE lubricant. It dries up, attracts dirts, etc. It’s one of those “guy products” that the pros hate. Cf. Duct/duck tape.
The right type of lube is what the manufacturer recommends. Could be a moly-type one or a lithium grease, etc.
Your job now is to clean off all the WD-40 you used as it will just cause trouble.
Edited to add: What ftg said.
FYI, most WD-40 products are not lubricants. The classic WD-40 is mostly kerosene with some additives (I think), it is more of a solvent for lubricants like oil and grease. It can feel like lubrication for a short while but it really isn’t.
They do sell a lithium grease under the WD-40 label but that’s a different product.
I only know Craftsman openers, but there may be an adjustment for upward and downward force. As the equipment ages, you may need to crank them up a little.
Have you a link on how to do that?
The WD40 was empty when I tried to use it.
I would start by disconnecting the opener and seeing if the door opens and closes smoothly by hand. Does it bind up at any point?
My garage door opener uses a screw-type system to determine when to stop. As the motor rotates, the screw pushes a plastic piece back and forth. When the plastic piece hits a limit switch, this triggers the door to stop.
I’ve had several problems with this mechanism over the years. Wasps decided to build a nest inside the mechanism on more than one occasion, which ended up clogging up the works and throwing the little plastic bits out of alignment, which caused the door to stop at the wrong time. The parts that are supposed to lock the little plastic bits into place so that they hit the switch at exactly the right time to stop the door are also worn and sometimes pop out of place, which causes the little plastic stops to move from where they are supposed to be, again resulting in the door stopping at the wrong time.
Door stop mechanisms vary quite a bit, but if you can’t find anything wrong with the track then this mechanism might be a good next thing to check.
There are several different types of limit switch arrangements. Some, like mine, use some sort of mechanism inside the door opener unit. Others have limit switches mounted on or near the garage door rails. Whatever type of mechanism you have, verify that something isn’t triggering the mechanism early.
@Dewey_Finn’s suggestion of disconnecting the opener from the door is a good one. If the opener mechanism stops early even with the door disconnected then the problem is probably with the stop limit switch mechanism or possibly a problem with the door opener itself. If the opener mechanism works fine without the door attached then the problem is the door itself or the tracks. Manually opening the door should reveal where the door is sticking or not moving smoothly.
Opening by hand stops at the same place the motor opening does.
Then there is obviously some barrier to it opening smoothly. In other words, it is not the door opener, it’s the door (or, more specifically, the track).
Look a little more closely at the track at the point where it stops. Is there an obstruction? A bend or crimp in the track? A wonky wheel? With someone else moving the door, you should be able to see what the issue is when the door stops moving.
mmm
Good idea, I’ll try that in the morning. Thanks!
WD-40 is Water Displacement-40
It is excellent for corrosion prevention and water proofing, has some use as a solvent, and is a poor lubricant.
But they’re both in the flowchart
It does keep the sliding door from sticking. In my book, that is a good lubricant. That’s how I used it up.
WD-40 is not an all-purpose lubricant, but according to the garage door professional quoted in this article, it’s the best way to clean the rollers and hinges on garage doors, because you need to clean the dust and gunk as well as lubricate:
“Dust collects and builds up on parts, creating noise,” says Krzyzak. “The original version of WD-40 breaks down that gunk and prevents rust and corrosion. In my 20 years in the industry, I have found WD-40 works best.”
Had a similar situation recently, mine would only close partially and then retract, turns out one of the guiding wheels was off its tract.
No more grease/oiling/lubricant since the door stops squarely in the same place. Something’s broken or misaligned and fixing it is certain to be more difficult (dirtier, if nothing else) with newly added stuff. In other words, it’s now a find and repair job, not catch up on maintenance time.
Found a video on youtube. Apparently one lubricates the hinges and the springs, I have a garage door lubricant from 3 in 1 one the way. All the rollers appear to be aligned, but a lot of gunk is present. I will clean the rollers and tracks.
May be a broken spring.