Electronics Dopers: Jumper wires

I bought a nixie tube clock kit a couple/three years ago. One look at it, and it’s more advanced than I can handle. (My experience with electronics is with a Radio Shack 100-in-1 electronics kit, where you attach components with jumper wires to springs that are attached to the components.) Put it away, found a guy to build it, lost the kit, found the kit, and now the guy is working on it. He just gave me a call.

He says that every component is marked on the circuit boards, and there is a component for every position… except for three jumper wires. They’re shown on the board(s), but the instructions don’t mention them and no wires were included in the kit. It’s way too late to contact the seller (in Poland) to find out if the jumper wires are needed or not.

In your experience, if a circuit board is marked for jumper wires but none are mentioned in the (somewhat vague) instructions, are jumper wires needed? The guy doing the build is going to finish without them and see if it works. Just thought I’d ask if anyone here knows anything about this sort of thing.

If it’s a single-sided PCB, the wires are necessary.
Otherwise, they may be for options.
Do you have a photo of the kit/schematic?

Only this. I didn’t take a picture of the other sides of the papers.

The parts placement diagram in the assembly manual shows at least 5 spots that I would characterize as jumpers.

Whether they’re needed is a function of the design, and if they’re needed I would expect the instructions to say so.

The guy said there are markings for three jumper wires, so there are six holes. Apparently the instructions don’t mention them. (He said the instructions were ‘vague’, but I think that’s just in general.)

That’s the advantage of having the board and the documentation in hand, rather than trying to puzzle out a small and grainy picture.

The board should at least label where the jumpers go, I would think.

Yeah, I can’t make a brooch or a pterodactyl with that.
Maybe a photo of the board, pointing out the jumper location would help.

I count 5 links on the main PCB and 8 on the display board.
It is almost certain they are required. The PCB reeks of single sided design.

A pic of the copper side of the PCB would make things easier.

That was my first thought, too. Did the kit not come with a schematic?

The one under IC3 is weird. I guess that jumper needs to go on the other side of the board? If so - and if there are traces under the jumper - use an insulated jumper. (And if IC3 is already installed, I would want to make sure the end of the wire doesn’t make contact with the body of IC3 after it is shoved into the hole.)

This would appear to be the clock kit.

You can see some of the links.

Here is a YouTube video of someone building the kit. He makes a terrible job of it on just about every front. In this build it appears that he has used zero Ohm resistors for the links. But links they are.

That does look like it. My guy said he looked at a video, and the guy in the video fast forwarded through the build, so he couldn’t see what he was doing – even at ¼ speed.

It is really terrible build. But, if you want confirmation of a link, look at the video at 7:48. There is what appears to be a resistor with a black band, close to the middle of the image, and soldered in one of the link locations. A black band is zero Ohms. Zero Ohm resistors are easier for mechanical insertion devices to place than wire links, so they are a real thing.

Don’t really need any more layers at the frequency this thing runs at.

Other than the lopsided components on the board, the bubbles in the over-thick finish, and the hack job on the cover, what is there to complain about? :grin:

Just talked to the electronics guy. He says he actually finished the clock last night, and it works and keeps time except for one thing… One tube doesn’t work. The LED backlight works, but the numbers don’t. He suspects that it’s a bad tube, and he’s seen online that people complain about non-working tubes (or non-working resistors). He’s going to check his work and get back to me this afternoon. I think he’s going to try swapping tubes to see if it’s the bulb or something else. His wife said the clock is fine as long as I only look at it between 1 o’clock and 9 o’clock. :stuck_out_tongue:

Just to add that if I was building an electronics circuit and had the need for a link, I would use a clipped tail off a resistor or capacitor, unless it clearly needed to be insulated. Pretty common when building things on stripboard (does any call it vero any more?).

He found the problem, and all of the numbers are working now.

Oh, and he did use jumper wires.

So, do I win something?

Gold star of the day :star2:

:grinning:

From the comments about the hack job/terrible build: Confirmation I should never post any of my projects to YT. Yikes!

Yes, this is the reason I never post my code anywhere. I know it sucks, I don’t need everyone to tell me…

The first link, showing the case.

Another thing I know nothing about is 3D printing. The pop-up on the page says ‘Downloading…’ My downloads show two .stl files. They open in Preview to show images of the two parts of the case. There are also .jpg files of the images shown on the link. At the top of the Preview frame, there’s the .stl file name and, underneath it, ‘Locked’.

So if I want to have this case printed, what files should I be looking for? The Downloading window still says ‘Downloading…’