Florida Dopers! Tell me about living there.

Title of the thread says it all, but that’s never stopped me from rambling on. My SO and I are both long time southern California residents. Many factors have come together out here, resulting in a desire to go somewhere else. So I come to IMHO, the font of all anecdotal information.

For our final destination, a large amount of sunshine is high on the list(suck it, Seattle) as is reasonable proximity to the ocean. So tell us about where you live, Floridopers. What do you love? What do you hate? What’s the down and dirty on hurricanes?

Tell me everything!

Apart from isolated pockets, Florida is generally WAY more conservative than CA. It flavors everything.

This may not mean much to a person coming from earthquake-land, but hurricanes can be a problem. When looking for a home, make sure to check on how well it meets the new hurricane-ready building codes.

What part of FL are you considering? I’m down on the southern Gulf Coast so that’s been my exposure. Certainly, the coasts have a more moderate climate than the interior. Personally, I’d avoid Orlando or pretty much the whole I-4 corridor.

Too early to say. Our general plan is to get as much info as possible and then take a road trip through the places on the short list. We’ve ruled out the southern east coast areas for the most part, at least the highly populated, touristy areas.

Thanks for responding. Any thoughts on your locale? What keeps you happy there?

ahem

I would respectfully disagree with HT in that I love Orlando and everything about it. I do agree that there’s not much to recommend the rest of the I-4 corridor (ie. Lakeland, Clearwater, Tampa, St. Pete) except for the glorious Tampa Bay Buccaneers.

The weather is gorgeous; it’s a bit humid, but you get used to it. If it rains, it rains for about 20 minutes around midafternoon and then it gets sunny again almost instantly.

People are friendly. There’s no state income tax.

We have more miles of coastline than any other state, and most of the year they aren’t occupied by puking coeds.

There’s a lot less stupid legislation than you put up with in CA- and fewer crazy people, on balance, so probably less need for it.

In fall of 2005 we moved to northwest Florida, which was breathtakingly beautiful, and now we are in the northeast, just minutes from southern Georgia, on Amelia Island. I love where we live. It’s just that the economy sucks. The popping of the housing bubble has definitely had an effect, but we are skittering along.
Definitely we had culture shock, coming from Denver. The line between church and state is, um, blurred. But there is so much more to Florida than Mickey Mouse, ya know what I mean? It is kind of a wacky state, but I love it. Summers are sultry but winters are fine, and springtime is gorgeous.
We need to be aware of hurricanes, and prepared. But I don’t fret too much about it, especially after spending so many spring days shoveling snow and picking up tree limbs. At least with hurricanes you get some warning.
I’ve met several transplanted Californians here, mostly from NorCal. If folks from Berkeley can survive here, I guess anyone can. :stuck_out_tongue:

Orlando and surrounding areas are on the list to check out. Living close to Los Angeles, we’re used to having a good choice of restaurant/bar/amusements within a pretty close proximity.

In your opinion, what makes Orlando wonderful?

I lived there for 7 years from 95’-02’ in Winter Springs (northern burb of Orlando), Daytona Beach (mainland), Ormond Beach (beachside), and Bonita Springs (between Naples & Ft.Myers).
Orlando has pretty much everything to do but is so dense with people and traffic that you have to like that sort of thing.
Daytona & Ormond were ideal. Cheap living, beaches, lots of events, easy access to Orlando, easy to get away from the crowds.
I thought Bonita Springs sucked. Lots of retirees, lots of gated communities, locals that grew up in the area were dim. More humid than a lot of the state. I didn’t have a lot of fun there.
Visited Miami and the southeast coast a few times and didn’t care for it. You either had to have lots of money to live in the nice areas or you live with the riff-raff.
Tampa/St.Pete seems nice enough but has some rough areas. Head north or south of there on the gulf coast and its retiree city.
Jacksonville doesn’t really feel like part of Florida.
Gainesville is nice, actually really nice, if you like the college town scene.
Tallahasee is just waaaay too far from anything.

If I was looking to move back and wanted to explore and do fun stuff on a regular basis I think Orlando would be ideal. Hour away from the space coast, hour away from Daytona, hour and a half from Tampa.
If I wanted to buy a home and relax long term I’d probably settle somewhere between St.Augustine and Daytona. Palm Coast maybe?

Not having been to LA, I’d guess that some of the things I like about Orlando are the same things that Angelinos like; there are lots of tourists, which means lots of idiots but also lots of neat people to meet.

There are lots of celebrities and quasi-celebrities around, if you’re into that sort of thing; I’m not, but it can be fun to meet them.

Probably my favorite thing is that Orlando combines all the benefits of a megalopolis with those of a relatively small city. For all that locals complain about “heavy traffic”, you can drive from one corner of the city to the other more quickly during rush hour than you could drive across almost any single London borough at midnight. I’ve lived and driven here for nine years, and I’ve never sat in traffic for more than 45 minutes. You can park your car downtown for a whole day for ten bucks - and for free if you know where to look. Public transport isn’t exactly terrific, but by the standards of most US cities it’s pretty good.

UCF - the sixth largest college in the country, by enrolment - is in the eastern end of town, in case you want to watch a game or take a class or something. It’s pretty good. I went there, so it must be. :smiley:

I’ll second this, although you couldn’t pay me enough to hang out in Gainesville west of I-75.

I too came here from SoCal, oh it’s been about twenty years now. You may think CA and FL are similar, but aside from both having a citrus industry and Disney theme parks, they’re not as similar as you’d think.

It is waaaaaaaay hotter/humid here. Not that big a deal if you are heat tolerant, but living in SoCal in no way prepares you for a summer here. The beaches here have nicer sand , but no waves. Also, the beach culture here tends to be more transients / actual beach bums, as opposed to the more afflfuent beach culture there.

Not sure what your reasons for wanting to come here are, but unless you have employment lined up, you might get discouraged. The biggest fields are medical, software and of course hospitality. If you’re leaving to find a lower cost of living you’ll also be disappointed. While we don’t have state tax, the pay here sucks (in comparison to CA).

As mentioned above, it is far more conservative here; I felt it the second I stepped off the plane.

Gosh, I’m painting a nasty picture, aren’t I? I don’t mean to discourage you. Heck, if I didn’t like it here I wouldn’t have stayed all this time. It’s just, in my opinion, a far cry from California, which might be exactly what you’re looking for. I’ll come back and post some of the positive stuff about Florida (I live in St. Pete) but I have to take off now. Whatever you do, take an extended visit before making a decision.

Hampshires’ appraisal of Bonita Springs is hard to deny. Down around Fort Myers it’s still very quiet. Going to the beach is about it unless you like to rub shoulders with the rich folk on Sanibel, Gasparilla, and Captiva.

Really…, the thing you like (tourists) is the exact thing I don’t like.

I grew up in South Florida (east coast), and, until the last year or so, I’ve lived there for most of my life. It’s changed a lot from when I was younger, and isn’t necessarily anywhere near as “touristy” as the Orlando area. You don’t get as many tourists in South Florida, but there is a “snow bird” season. Certain parts of it are retiree havens, and a lot of segments of the population are filled with people who’ve migrated from the Northeast. Property values and taxes are higher, but you get a lot more for your money with that, as services tend to be better maintained and closer together than in Central Florida. The weather is more humid, but there’s almost always a sea breeze that helps make the year-round 70s-90s more bearable. The beaches are reasonably nice, and fish is fresh in most restaurants within 30 miles of the beach. There’s a lot of shopping, culture, and entertainment to be found, but you might have to drive to get to your favorite variety of each. From my experience, South Florida is completely devoid of “Southern culture”.

Right now, I’m living in an area that’s slightly more rural than Orlando, but is a 20-40 minute drive away, depending on intended location and traffic conditions. The weather is definitely drier here than in South Florida, and there isn’t as much of a breeze; this can be a problem in the more urban areas, as there’s not as much in the way of trees to absorb the heat, so it can be miserable on some days in one area, and still relatively nice in another area with more plant life. Right now, the population is ever-changing. We’ve got a lot more conservative population around here, which is a mix of many different cultures. The biggest in my part of the area is a bit of the “good ol’ boy” Southern culture and relatively new Latin American immigrants, but there are still a lot of other cultures mixing in: British, Indian, “Northerners”, Midwestern types, nondescript Yuppies, and others. The population changes quite a bit from town to town, with the biggest change normally stemming from the background of the people living there, as the different groups tend to “cluster” into their own neighborhoods more commonly than not (in my experience; it may differ to others in this area).

In both places, people drive like idiots, but in different ways. In South Florida, expect people to try to run you over or cut you off if they get the chance. People are angrier drivers and are in much more of a hurry to get places. The one exception would be in areas that are retiree meccas; when in these areas, be prepared to have someone in front of you who’s driving way too slow, not staying in their lane, and isn’t visible beyond the poof of hair and the knuckles on the steering wheel. In Central Florida, be aware that you’re likely to be surrounded by tourists that have lost their minds at any given moment and be prepared for people to stop randomly, take three lane changes at the last moment, turn out of the wrong turn lane, and drive at a speed that is either 20 miles over the speed limit or 20 miles under the speed limit. As a secondary warning, statewide, we can’t get age related laws passed in regard to license renewal beyond two major regulations we have now: graduated licensing and an eye test for those 80 and above. This means that, between the ages of 17 and 80, there isn’t any retesting or capability regulations going on at all, which has led to us having more older drivers who aren’t capable of driving a car not having anything to stop them beyond a crash or a police officer revoking their license. This is common enough everywhere, but is especially common because there are more people who are retirees than in other states.

I spent about four years living in Tallahassee while I was in college at Florida State University. It’s an interesting town, but was really slow compared to what I was used to in South Florida, and is definitely quite a bit more conservative in nature than South Florida or Orlando. It does, however, have a mix between a college town feel and a “bustling capital in a tiny city” thing going on. FSU and FAMU football season take over the city like a plague, and can make traffic a nightmare if you’re not going to the game. There’s a lot of college-related culture there, but the downtown area and some of the “outskirts” of Tallahassee have some beautiful historic buildings and museums to look at. There are a lot of bars and nightclubs in the area, a small independent movie theater, and a handful of ethnic restaurants and two hookah bars. The summers, however, are brutal: 106+ degree heat with very high humidity and regular afternoon showers. If you’re not used to it, you better stay inside and drink lots of water. There’s a lot of little country towns nearby, and the gulf coast is not far away; it is, however, tannic water, so it’s not as pretty as other beaches along the coast. Tallahassee can be charming for its history, but it’s no Savannah.

As others have said, we don’t have state income taxes. This means that a lot of the governmental services you got used to may not be the same as what we’ve got here, as it’s all dependent upon property taxes. Florida passed a property tax amendment earlier this year for the next fiscal year which cut a lot of budgets across the state. This means that downsizing is happening in just about all the county departments that I know of, whether it is hiring freezes, requiring employees to do more work for the same pay, a decrease in raises and cost-of-living adjustments, or just plain firing people so they don’t have to pay more people. In Orange County and Seminole County, this means that teacher jobs are being reduced and that county services are becoming increasingly limited in what they’re able to provide. If you’ve got kids that are still in school, consider very heavily what the school districts and private schools look like before you move. Some schools in nearby zones vary drastically in the education they provide, and sometimes it’s better to homeschool or find a decent private school.

Florida is definitely an interesting place to live, but it all depends on what you want from it. There’s busier “metropolitan” areas like Miami, Ft. Lauderdale, West Palm Beach, Orlando and Tampa, and there are quieter areas of different varieties all over the place. If you’re looking for a more relaxed beach lifestyle, it’s easier to find on the Gulf Coast than it is on the East Coast these days.

This is exactly the thing we’re looking for, honest opinion. Everyplace on the planet has wonderful aspects, and aspects that make you want to take an axe to someone. We’d definitely be doing an extended road trip through the place before anything is decided.

Thanks to everyone for all of the great responses so far.

I am not a Floridoper (though I would love to be), but for my money, St. Augustine is one of the most beautiful cities in the whole country. FWIW.

Also, might I recommend http://www.findyourspot.com? Answer a bunch of questions, then lie when they ask for your personal information, and see where their computer thinks you should live.

This is my third time to live in Florida, so I guess I must really like the place; I’ve lived in Horrible Homestead, as we called it, Fort Myers, and now in Seminole. I’m torn between liking Fort Myers or Seminole the best. Fort Myers is located in Lee County, which has done a terrible job of preserving beach access for the common man; if you don’t live in a beach front condo finding access to a beach can be difficult. Pinellas County, where I am now, has done a better of job of preserving its beach access, plus Pinellas County is home to Fort DeSoto Beach and that is beach enough for anyone—it is a fantastic beach. Pinellas County is, IIRC, the most developed county in Florida but one can still find open country, especially in the northern area of the county. Where I live is about two miles inland from Madeira Beach, which is just about perfect. We can walk or bike to the beach if we choose. St. Petersburg is a near neighbor to Seminole and you can find almost anything you might like in St. Pete. Several good museums, art galleries, restaurants, etc., etc. You can also find a lot of things you don’t want; tourist with all their attendant problems, traffic congestion, lack of parking, and so on. Even so, St. Pete isn’t a bad place to live.
Tampa can be a real nightmare; traffic in Tampa is horrible at any time, day or night, and traffic jams seem to be more common there than in St. Pete. Even so, Tampa can be a decent place to visit: museums, art galleries, great restaurants, good shopping and so forth. I just wouldn’t want to live there.

I spent 15 years of my life, 1982-1997 in Florida. Home has been Pensacola, Gainesville, Micanopy, Largo, Seminole, Dunedin.

What I liked about Florida: Being able to see the truth that hides within Carl Hiassen novels. Really impressive thunderstorms, daily, during the summer. The easy mix of different cultures and backgrounds. Water skiing. Snorkeling. Manatees. Cow pastures, and the mushrooms readily found therein. Ybor City Cuban sandwiches. Fishing, and being able to eat the fish I caught.

What I disliked about Florida: Being able to see the truth that hides within Carl Hiassen novels. Really impressive rainstorms, daily, during the summer. “Choose Life” license plates.

What I really disliked about Florida: It is indeed the Sunshine State. The four seasons are: summer; a welcome relief from the unbearable summer; hey, I think I can actually wear a sweater; and it’s almost summer again. The last three span November-January.

It’s because I live there, isn’t it? Seriously, I think this is the nicer side of town.

I’ve lived in Florida all my life and still haven’t acclimated to the heat. I was outside yesterday for about ten minutes and thought I was going to be sick. And it’s not even really hot yet!

I’ve lived in Fort Lauderdale, Tampa, Ocala, Palatka, and Gainesville, and I like Gainesville the best. It’s a small town…you’ll run into people you know when you go to the store…but it’s got the amenities of a larger town, thanks to the students. The students aren’t difficult to cope with (well, they might be if you live next door to them).

I admit Northern California’s got us beat in the natural beauty department, but we still have a lot of gorgeous beaches, rivers, springs, and forests you won’t want to miss.

I think everything’s pretty much been said, but y’all did leave out one important thing: Don’t pet the giant lizards!

I call them “almost summer”, “summer”, “it was just summer”, and “Christmas”.

Well, to be fair, I’ve never been that far past 75 because everyone I could see to the west of the Cracker Barrel was scary-looking.

To echo the “it’s kinda conservative” sentiment: there are a bunch of rednecks more or less everywhere you go in Florida; in some places (up north, mostly) it’s the scary kind, and some places (central/south) it’s the fun kind.

Things like this occasionally, but you could live your whole life here and never meet anyone who’s openly racist.

Gee, thanks so much. :mad: :stuck_out_tongue:

It’s hot 90% of the year…There are roaches, and pockets of extreme backwards-ness, and traffic, and tourists, and snow-birds, and truly awful drivers. But I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else.

Traffic is a bitch, especially in central Florida. I-4 and some toll roads are really the only highways.

The housing market is suffering, so now would be a good time to buy.

No state income tax, but property taxes are a bit of a subject right now. The state cut them, but now local governments are raising “fees” to make up for the shortfall.

If you have kids, research carefully for schools. My children are in private school because the schools in my county sucketh much.

That said, I love the weather, there’s a lot to do, and my family is close by. A lot of areas are growing like mad…in my little part of Orlando(ish), the hospital is cutting edge, so except for an MRI I had to have in Orlando, everything has been local.

I would not buy near the coast. You probably could not afford the hurricane insurance…few people can.

We moved to the Cocoa Beach area (Merritt Island), due east of Orlando, four years ago (and we still have the house there). The weather is, for the most part, certainly a plus. Yes, it gets really hot in the summer, but if you have a pool it makes all the difference. The housing market has taken a real hit, so I suspect that coming from SoCal you could find housing for less than you might expect. Insurance is a problem depending on precisely where you live; State Farm dropped us because we live too close to the coast, despite no previous claims against our policy. The state-backed insurance company will provide policies for those that were dropped.

We are both divers, so although there is no diving to speak of in the immediate area, it was only 2 hours door-to-door to a boat in Jupiter, 2-1/2 to West Palm Beach. Weekend trips to the Keys were easy; roughly 4 hours to the upper Keys. Lots of kayaking and other boating in our area. Orlando International Airport is a straight shout out the Beeline Expressway, 40 minutes door-to-door.

I realized the other day that one of the things I really like about that area is how relatively class-status-free it seems. Go to almost any local bar or restaurant in the area and a partner at a big law firm might be sitting next to a 60-year-old beach bum, and nobody cares. I think that’s pretty cool.