With the extreme cold, my sister in law is having an issue with the drainage pipes under her home not flowing. Is there something that can be done to keep the pipe warm so the tub and toilets will work properly?
Self regulating heat cable. Insulating around the pipe (and heat cable), but the heat cable should keep things moving.
Home Depot sells some that I find myself replacing on a regular basis. The Raychem brand that Grainger carries works very well.
Staple pieces of cardboard over the foundation venting holes … just remember to take them off again when the weather warms in early spring … not a solution but it helps …
Do you also use a plug in thermostat or similar so the heat cable won’t be on when the temperature where it’s at is above freezing?
The heat tape on the water line in our barn gets plugged in as part of our winter routine. Unplugging it signals spring better than any groundhog.
Hey, UC Bearcats! All right!
Is there an elbow or some odd slope to the pipe under the trailer? If there is, there’s a good shot your ice-clog is there. You may have to disconnect the pipe, bring it inside to thaw or run hot water through it, then re-attach with some pipe insulation on it.
You may also need to increase the pitch on the pipe so it doesn’t re-occur. We’re obviously dealing with some pretty extreme temps here. Also check for any leaks from the toilet, if there’s even a very small leak it could accumulate over time and plug the pipe overnight when it’s coldest and least likely to be flushed to “unplug” it.
In my walk in coolers I simply pull the plug in spring and plug it back in as soon as the weather begins to drop. In my walk in freezers I leave the plugged in year round.
Set up an incandescent light bulb underneath … they produce quite a bit of waste heat …
^^^That’s what I was gonna suggest. Get a cheap work light and a 100watt bulb, it will keep it thawed out. Make sure it’s not close to flammable materials.
100 watt incandescent bulbs are getting hard to find. We use two in our barn water area to keep the pipe from freezing. Bulbs last a couple of weeks, since they get jostled around a lot.
Dollar tree, and other dollar stores have them. Better buy up a supply.
Thanks for the replies. I’m going to crawl underneath and see what I can figure out.
Don’t fuck around with light bulbs. Get a GFCI extension cord or wire an external outlet with GFCI, and use a proper grounded, UL listed, self regulating heat tape attached to the pipe somehow. Attached with aluminum tape.
Then, insulation around the pipe itself.
Like so : https://www.briskheat.com/how-to-prevent-pipe-freezing
Won’t cost more than a couple hundred bucks in materials, tops.
And I recommend a thermostat that clicks on the heat tape when the outside air temperature is under 32 (and clicks it back off when it rises), that way you only heat the piping during the part of the year you actually need it and don’t waste 1 watt otherwise. Like the ‘Freezebuster FB3/TC3 Thermocube Ivory In-Line Limiting Plug-In Freeze Protection Thermostat’
A light bulb will cost 69¢ … and it just needs to be in the crawl area, near the access is fine … let convection do all the moving around under there … I have one of them 500W worksite lights that’s gets too hot to touch … that will thaw things out in a hurry if you’ve blocked all the vents …
Ironic. Millions of working incandescents probably dumped in landfills over the past few years because they are so inefficient, producing vast amounts of waste heat…
And I realize this is a serious problem so I won’t take it that way just yet, but when you have all the ideas you need, we do need to come up with some creative solutions for things your SIL can eat to generate heat to flow through her waste pipe into the waste pipe…
Sigh. I hear this meme a lot. Incandescent bulbs are so inefficient that you do not save money by “running them until they burn out”.
Somehow my parents would rather burn out a 50 cent incandescent bulb that replace it with a $2 LED.
But if it’s a 60 watt bulb, with 700 hours of bulb life remaining, that’s $5.04 of power that one bulb is going to burn through (at the national average of 12 cents a kilowatt hour). Not to mention that if it’s summertime, you’re also paying another $1.25 or so in extra electricity to pump that waste heat out of the house. (and in winter time, the ‘free’ heat is still expensive electric heat that would otherwise have been supplied by natural gas or a heat pump)
Replace it with an LED immediately, if the LED’s 2 bucks. And the phillips brand 60 watters, which are actually pretty reliable (haven’t seen one fail yet in 3 years) are on sale for $1.25 sometimes, and the ‘normal’ price is about $2.50.
Anyways, I don’t think a 100 watt bulb stuck in a ventilated and uninsulated crawlspace is going to unfreeze the OP’s pipes. It’s got to be a heat source right on the water line itself, with insulation so that the heat doesn’t escape. At least, that’s what I think. Guess it depends on the outdoor temperature.
I’ve insulated the 4’x2’x2’ “closet” in our barn that contains our water line as well as I can with insulation panels, spray foam, etc. There are two light bulbs, originally 100 watters, now I can only find 60s. Heat tape on the supply line extends 8 inches below the surface.
The bulbs have a short life under their rough conditions. Every winter we’ll have a bulb burn out overnight when temps drop down below zero and our water freezes, often in the hose (which is difficult to completely drain after each use). We then carry 5 gallon buckets of water from the house until the ice thaws.
A 100 watt bulb doesn’t do much, IME.
Nice little rant there, but I didn’t suggest we should be doing anything of the sort.
I didn’t say we shouldn’t be disposing of them. I said that our disposal of all the incandescents because they generate too much heat was ironic in the current situation where somebody wants to generate heat and can’t find one.
It is such perfect irony, unlike a black fly in your Chardonnay and most of the other things in her song, that Ms Morissette could have learned something from it.
See, this is kind of a plan to fail. If you used self regulating heat cable, taped right on the pipe, with insulation around that, the self regulating resistor means the heat gets generated where it’s needed. And it’s not going to burn out on you.
And it wouldn’t cost more than a couple hundred bucks, like I said, or less than the potential damage if you burst a pipe. Nor would there be any risk of having to go out there every winter when it burns out.
Add on the automatic thermostat controller, and the cable would be off when the weather warms up. Do it right, and you wouldn’t have to revisit the shed for years. Eventually some component will fail, but it could work fine for a decade.
What you have reminds me of how back in the 1990s, you could try to keep a GM car running or you could buy a used Toyota. It wouldn’t even cost you much to do that. And with a used Toyota, with a more stable platform in the first place, you’d still have to do maintenance and repairs, just a fraction as often.