(Open book and television series spoilers permitted here, along with speculation and completely irresponsible bullshittery - beware! BEWARE!!!)
Many of my friends consider the Lannisters to be the villains in Game of Thrones/A Song of Ice and Fire. So do many reviewers. However, I don’t see why, and I don’t believe George R.R. Martin sees them that way, either.
Yes, I’ll grant that Ned Stark was the most personally sympathetic leader from the first book in the series - but, as nearly every character pointed out to him, he wasn’t actually very good at statecraft on a national level. He was a poor judge of character (tipping his hand to Cersei), and a poor hand in a crisis. He likely could have averted the War of the Five Kings if he’d thrown his support behind Renly while Robert was dying; not the lawful heir, granted, but he had the wealth and popular/military support to keep a firm grip on power, and Renly’s plan to move on the Lannisters in King’s Landing immediately might well have worked. Stannis wouldn’t have been happy, but he’d have been facing a kingdom united against his claim, not a free-for-all power-scramble; he’d have acquiesced. And Renly pointed all this out, as did Littlefinger. Ned Stark had all the information he needed to make the best possible decisions for the Kingdoms; he simply declined to do so.
The Lannisters, on the other hand, have a very good institutional understanding of statecraft. Tywin’s time as Hand under Aerys is widely acknowledged to have been very successful - the Kingdoms were prosperous and peaceful, and this is attributed to Tywin’s leadership. He’s a cold man, and dangerous in wartime (we’d call many of his actions against civilians war crimes) - but he isn’t cruel for the sake of cruelty, and his goal seems to be a stable, peaceful realm. (And Martin makes a point of showing that partisans on all sides of the war commit terrible atrocities). The Seven Kingdoms could have done a lot worse than Tywin Lannister. Further, while Tyrion eventually was pushed beyond the breaking point, he was never anything like a monster; as acting Hand, he was humane and effective. The only absolute monsters on the Lannister side were Joffrey (now dead, in the novels), and arguably Cersei.
(Yes, Jamie and Cersei’s relationship is unsettling; it’s also unimportant to the larger issues of state. So is the attempt to murder Bran, for that matter).
Even Stannis has a lot to recommend him; for all his much-ballyhooed inflexibility, the man has shown a great deal of cleverness and resourcefulness since the Battle of Blackwater. His committment to the Wall shows a genuine concern for the Realm’s welfare, and his willingness to let the Wildlings immigrate shows him to be far from a complete monster. Yes, Melisandre is a bad and dangerous influence - but in many ways, Stannis would make a fine king. (And by Westerosi law, that’s exactly what he should be).
Honestly, of all the players who made a bid for power in Westeros proper - Stannis, the Starks, Renly, and the Lannisters - I’d say the Starks are the very least capable of governing. Ned Stark made bad choices as hand, and Rob Stark provided an explicit example of winning every battle and losing the war through terrible, terrible coalition management.
So, why do so many fans (and critics) seem to be rooting for the Starks? And why in the name of the Seven Gods should I?