The rulesbook says the owner of the defending army gets to allocate the wounds.
They can, but you can roll all the saves together for all models that are exactly the same that have been wounded.
For instance, if you had a group of 10 Blood Angels, 7 normal dudes, 2 with Melta Guns, and 1 Sergeant, and you got 6 wounds, and decided to allocate 3 to the regular guys, 2 to the melta guns, and 1 to the sergeant*, you’d roll three groups of dice: 3 saves for the regular bolters, 2 for the meltas, and 1 for the sergeant, taking off any unsaved wounds from those respective groups. You don’t roll six times, one for each model, unless each model is unique. Or you want to be annoying.
*Of course, normally you wouldn’t want to do this but rather allocate everything to the regular bolters.
Yes, but I was contradicting the sentence :
“If you kill dudes, you remove the closest ones/the ones with the least cover first.”
It’s been a while since I played :o.
Heheh. No worries, I still appreciate the advice and information everyone provides. It’s just fresh in my mind from having read the book.
Dark Eldar is one of the hardest armies to play. Be warned. However, they can be devastating when played well. 1d4chan has pages on tactics for every army, but that site has NSFW drawn images on some of the non-tactics pages. There’s also dakkadakka, warseer and Bell of Lost souls.
Wow, some of those artists have such inventively wonderful depictions of breasts - I mean, beasts. Yes. Warbeasts. Totally nonsexualized-warbeasts who are not going into battle stark naked.
Finally finished reading the main rulebook in fits and starts. I think, so long as I don’t have to deal with too many vehicles at first, that I can handle the basics. Now I need to look at my codexes and decide what kind of options I want to field. What I may do is work on the Orks first, just to get a simple little force I can field to better learn the gameplay.
Orks is for fightin’ n’ winnin!
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagh!
Allright, I’ve tentatively started the assembly process. Question for those of you who regularly paint Warhammer minis - do you usually fully assemble, then paint? Or wait to glue in the last bits after painting? I’m used to fantasy miniatures that don’t tend to have arms folded across their chest, with a big gun blocking most of the chest insignia…
If the arms are blocking the chest, I usually leave them off until after painting. It’s a little annoying having to scrape primer off of the joints for a proper join. But it can be worse trying to paint around the gun. It depends on the particular mini.
Hmm. Yeah, that’s probably what I should do. I’m planning to brush prime anyway.
I’ve been so sick I haven’t moved on this myself, but: Will plain old superglue do? Or do you need specific plastic modelling glue? My Wyches are really annoyed I haven’t put them together yet, and they’re complaining. A lot.
This is largely why I never even thought about going into WH40K. The army that’s most interesting to me is Imperial Guard. In a world of demons and aliens and super-soldiers, I like the idea of a group of regular guys with laser guns, backed up by undying resolve, raw numbers, and MASSIVE FREAKING TANKS! But, of course, numbers=$.
Superglue works, but other glues work better. Superglue creates a rather brittle bond regardless of material, while plastic cement melts and fuses the plastic together to form a stronger bond.
I thought Krazy Glue had the same slightly-melting effect. No? I’ve mainly worked with metal up till this point.
Well, there’s always the ghetto way we used in high school: make tanks out of Lego blocks, cobble models from every game you own (“the HeroQuest orcs are the Catachan squad. The Trivial Pursuit pie is the Vindicare assassin.”) but it does lose something 
If Defiance Games gets around to making their first plastic kit, they could be a good way to make a cheap IG army. A dollar per model before third party discounts is a lot better than $2.70 for the same.
Good deals exist out there. Between E-bay and connections in the gaming community, you can get horde armies cheap sometimes. It also helps that the base figures for IG and Tyranids are plastic. That usually makes them cheaper.
Another consideration is that painting a horde army takes longer.
No. Krazy Glue is a superglue.
For plastic models, if gluing before painting, it’s best to use either liquid cement or old-fashioned tube glue.
If gluing after painting, I tend to use either one of the more viscous superglues or five-minute epoxy, with a preference for epoxy because you get a bit more working time to get things properly adjusted, and because sometimes superglues leave a white filmy deposit on nearby glossy or transparent surfaces.