Going to Galway (Ireland)! What should we see?

Thanks to the Dopers’ advice on how to write a good abstract, the Pipers are going to Galway in a few months’ time to attend a conference. After that, we’re going to stay for a week or two. We’re thinking of staying in western Ireland and touring about - any suggestions for what we should see or do in Galway/western Ireland? Given time constraints, I’m not sure if we want to go to Dublin or the north, but we’re open to persuasion.

Never been to Ireland before, so any and all suggestions would be welcome.

oh, and a language question: Is “Galway” cognate to “Galloway” in Scotland?

In the West (my favorite part of Ireland!) I really like Dingle Town and the whole Dingle Peninsula, Cliffs of Moher, Kylemore Abbey, Cong, The Burren, and definitely the Aran Islands. In Galway check out the main pedestrian shopping street (down from Eyre Square) for great pubs, bookstores and other shopping. Of course, it all depends on what you like to do and your transportation situation, but those are a few suggestions.

well, I’m interested in traditional music and would love to sit in on some sessions with uillean pipes, and I’m also looking forward to being in the Gaeltacht.

Mrs. Piper likes shopping, sightseeing and such like.

It’s been 9 years since I was there, but we did everything that Boscibo suggests, and loved it. In Galway, we stepped into a pub, drank freshly drawn Guinness and were treated to delightful live, traditional music. I am sure your talents would be welcomed. Just ask around, they’ll tell you where to go.

My wife is a Galwegian - well, Connemara - so I’ve spent a lot of time there over the years. First piece of advice: it might be the height of summer, but the weather will be shit for all or part of your visit. Cold Atlantic winds bringing rain will hit you at some time. Bring at least a fleece and a rainproof coat.

Galway city’s delights are many and obvious, so I shan’t go into detail, but I’ll tell you what you can do nearby. Galway city sits on the eastern end of Galway Bay, so from the city you’ve got two real choices (east Galway is IMO dull as ditchwater) - south west towards Clare, and north west into Connamara.

You can get to the Burren in Clare in about an hour. The Burren is a vast, bizarre geological phenomenon with its own ecosystem that I haven’t the energy or knowledge to describe, but it’s well worth a visit. Then a little further south to the Cliffs of Moher, which are the most spectacular cliffs I’ve ever seen.

Going the other way, I’d recommend a drive along the north of Galway Bay, turning right at Ballynahown to Maam Cross, then west again to Clifden, which is a lovely little town, albeit very touristy. The inland of Connemara is like nowhere else I’ve ever seen - blasted stone and red heath scrub as far as the eye can see. The first time I went there I described it as like being on the surface of Mars. On your way back, there’s a fantastic restaurant at Moycullen, called Moycullen House, which does fabulous “modern Irish cuisine”. It’s a bit expensive and you’ll need to make a booking, but it’s well worth it.

The area is firmly “Gaeltacht”, which means that most people speak Irish there as their first language. However, with the exception of some very elderly people, everyone also speaks English fluently. Don’t be insulted, as some people have been, if someone speaking English to you reverts to Irish immediately when talking to others - they’re not being rude or talking about you behind your back, it’s their native tongue, and they were doing you a favour. We had a cute experience there once when we went to get a sandwich - I ordered in my English accent, so the sandwich shop people didn’t know my wife could speak Irish. The guy barked something to the woman in Irish, and I felt a trifle paranoid. However, my wife recounted later that the fella had said “Mary! For God’s sake put more ham in that sandwich! What will those nice people think of us with you being so mean?”

If you have time I’d also recommend a trip to the Aran Islands, which you can get to by ferry from Galway, or a ten-minute hop in the smallest plane in the universe from Inverin, where they weigh you before getting on. The Aran Islands are amazing looking, and home to tiny isolated communities completely out of time, seemingly having moved little since the nineteenth century.

Most of the pubs around Connemara will have live music of some kind each evening, just happening spontaneously. In Galway city it’s sometimes staged for the tourists, and sometimes it’s actually a booked artist playing, so joining in wouldn’t always be appropriate. However in Connemara they genuinely appreciate the “session” as an artform rather than a tourist attraction.

Most people will absolutely love it if you join in - and spectators will voice their approval of particularly good bits of playing with the words “mahu” (not sure of the spelling of these words) or “fair play”. And “ahrís” (ah-reesh) means “encore”.

However, there is a subtle etiquette, that I’m not really tuned into. I was once playing guitar and singing in a pub in Spiddal, and a load of people came in with violins, sat in another room and started squalling away - they were individually very good but en masse they were deafeningly loud, sounded hideous, and totally drowned me out - but after about half an hour the landlady came over and told me to stop playing as I was “putting the fiddlers off”.

It’s a lovely place, most people are truly as warm and welcoming as the clichés say, and were it not for the awful weather and the lack of jobs, I would have much rather lived there rather than ten years in Dublin. Enjoy!

My own favourite pub in Galway is called The Quays, which does a rather fine carvery in teh downstairs bit (try the bacon & cabbage) for around the €10-15 mark. See here for other inspiration.

The Irish for Gaway is Gaillimh, pronounced something like “gawl-yuv” - alas, I have no idea whether the word has anny connection with the Scottish place-name Galloway.

I’ve just seen in the other thread what your paper is about, so I suspect my advice about language is irrelevant. It might be instructive, if you haven’t already, to read up about how the Irish state has pro-Irish economic policy within the gaeltacht, in an attempt to preserve the language. Some of the policies are a bit domestically controversial. Personally I don’t think they stand up to principle, but in terms of Realpolitik I don’t know what else could be done if the areas are to remain Irish-speaking.

thanks for all the suggestions, everyone. I’m busy reading a Rough Guide as well, and I’m starting to get excited. Of course, there’s still the minor detail of a paper to write…

jimm, yes, I"ve got an idea of the language dynamics, but I’m sure I’ll learn more once we’re there. I’m an anglophone who’s spent a fair bit of time in Québec, and the paper deals with an aspect of minority language rights, so I have some experience in the area. What I find interesting about the Irish situation is how massively the foreign language has supplanted the native language, and how the law has dealt with that situation in response.

Doolin is a wonderful little town known for traditional music being played nightly in its three pubs, two of which are across the street from each other, the third is maybe a half-mile away in what I suppose is the “downtown” part of town. Granted, when I was there, it was mid-week in February, and I think only one (McGann’s) actually had anything going on. Supposedly, during tourist season it’s much livelier. As I recall, we had lunch in Galway at The Quays and were in Doolin for dinner, so it’s not a far drive, and I think it’s also a good spot to set off from to see the Aran Islands or the Cliffs of Moher.