I love Salem. We go there all the time.
I have to second or third the Peabody Essex Museum. They jusyt expanded and remodeled it, and it’s enormous and interesting. Well worth the visit.
A lot of the witch stuff is hyped up and hooey (but fun nevertheless). Take with a rain of salt. You might want to read up on it. I recommend Witchcraft in Salem by Chadwick Hansen (a revisionist history) and Boyer and Nissenbaum’s Salem Posessed.
Sadly, almost all of the Salem bookstoes have closed. The Black Cat was a great used book store, and A Tangled Web was a great mystery book store (with horror as well), but they’re gone. There’s one book store on the Mall. I don’t recall the name, but it’s packed to the gills and overflowing with cut-rate books. They’re going out of businss, they say. But thy’ve been saying that for t least three years now. There are plenty of books for sale in the New Age/witchcraft/Wickie-Poo shops, but they’re almost al occult and New Age books
There are a lot of odd museums – The Pirate Museum, the new Hollywood Wax Museum, a Childen’s Museum, a Historical Wax Museum. Fun, but not essential.
See the Witchcraft Memorial, right next to the old Graveyard (they’re between the Peabody-Essex and the Pirate museum) The Witchcraft memorial went up 12 years ago on the 300th anniversary of the witch trials, and honors the 19 hanged and one pressed (Giles Corey) victims of that event. All were almost certainly innocent of any wrongdoing (Hansen makes a persuasive case that witchcraft was practced at Salem, but nobody as doing what the witches were accused of, and in the face of all the jokery about Salem Wiches, it’s worth remembering that a human tragedy lies at the heart of it.
As The_Raven notes, Salem Pioneer Village is an almost unknown feature of the town. It’s well away from the main tourist sites. It was built in the 1930s, an has lasted since then. The homes aren’t all from one era, but represent severa different stages in Salem’s Colonial history, from the quick and temporary homes built by the first settlers through a Governor’s Mansion. There used to be two Straw Houses (as mentioned in my Teemings article on the Three Little Pigs, “Not by the Hair f my Chinny Chin Chin”), but one of them burned down many years ago. Matches are a bigger threat than blowhard wolves.
There are several “Spook Houses” in town – “Dracula’s Castle” across from Wendy’s, “Horror on the Wharf” on Pickering Wharf, and a new one on the Mall.
There are quite a few restaurants, but you’ll have to drasw your own conclusions. One of them, across from the Hawthorne Hotel, is a reproduction of an Irish Pub, an has good food (and Guiness). You’dnever guess that, only fw months before, it had been a haunted-house-themed place called The CRypt Cafe, and feaured looped Addams family movies and the like.