Trying to do cloning shots kinda sucks with my Kodak camera. I have to be ever so careful to not move the camera as the press the button for the next sequence of shots (this camera doesn’t have a timer either). What’s a good quality digital camera that has a remote trigger, or maybe something that takes shots using timing intervals, (maybe every 10 sec.)? Do digital cameras even have these options? I feel like going on a cloning spree. 
Cloning? But that’s currently against international law, under discussion at the United…
OH! That kind!
IANACE (camera expert), but I think a tripod would provide all the stability you need for the cloning shots. I’m sure you can find one that lets you adjust it to any height / angle you want.
Is this what you mean by cloning: http://www.dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=37416
There aren’t any digital cameras that I know of that will allow multiple exposures (aside from the old way of setting a long exposure time and flipping a hat on and off the camera. The PS techniques in that thread are the simplest way.
Unfortunately to get the cameras that will take burst shots, you’ll have to get the higher-than-consumer level cameras - expect to pay around $800.
Otherwise, Kythereia’s suggestion is the best bet.
Take a look around www.steves-digicams.com for some cameras. He does everything except reprint the manual.
Hm. Apparently that post isn’t in English. :smack:
Yeah, that’s the type of cloning I’m talking about. I have a tripod, but pressing the button for the next shot can leave the next image off by just a pixel, making it hard to get consistant shots. That’s why it would be nice to have a camera with a remote switch, or burst shots. I’ll check out Steves Digicams.
You might want to define exactly what you mean by cloning.
My Dimage 7 has an intervalometer (takes repeated shots after an interval) and I’m pretty sure the replacement A1 and A2 kept that feature. My Nikon D100 doesn’t have an intervalometer built in but it will work that way when tethered to a PC running Nikon Capture.
As for cloning do it in post. Long shutter time with an external “shutter” is bad for digital because the long exposure will drive noise up dramatically.
Example: http://www.dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=32302
Would it be best to find a camera with the intervalometer option? Or does the cost go up more?
You don’t need an intervalometer, that is only for making an automatic series of shots without intervention. To duplicate this shot you will need a sturdy tripod that won’t shift position, a camera capable of manual exposure, a self-timer or a friend to trip the shutter and an editing program with a clone tool.
You must shoot in manual exposure to get all the shots to match. Auto exposure will try to make subtle adjustments as you move around the frame. I’d avoid using flash too though that isn’t impossible. Take a series of shots with you in each and avoid overlapping as much as possible.
I use photoshop but any editing program with a clone tool will work. Make a copy of one frame as your master frame. Open a copy of a frame with you in a different position. In PsP the clone tool is uses by right clicking the source image then left clicking the destination image to copy pixels from source to destination. You absolutely must click on the exact same pixel in each image in order to line up. Zoom in to 400%+ to make this easier then zoom out on the destination image to exit. Use the clone tool to “paint in” the image of you from the second frame. Once you do this you’ll find it’s so devilishly easy the novelty may go away before you show someone.
Again, it’s hit or miss. Padeye’s got some serious equipment there ($1000 range). Most that I’ve seen below that price use burst (which will be like three or five in quick succession) or have self-timers, but nothing that complex. If you’re primiarily using staged photos, take a shot of the background alone and use that as your background layer. Crop out as much as you can of the extra layers and then line up the background of those to your backgroun layer. You really shouldn’t be able to tell the difference.
Being a pixel off really is exceptionally negligible. If that’s the case, I think you aren’t tightening the camera down properly.
Whoops, make that Paintshop Pro, AKA poor man’s Photoshop.
That was in reply to the intervalometer question which is irrelevant. This shot can be duplicated with virtually any consumer digicam since the cloning is really done in post. Fact is I don’t think you can get film style multi exposure cloning in camera no matter how much money you spend.
This is true. I’m already pretty familiar with cloning and using photoshop. I’m just looking for a better way to take the pictures without “bumping” the camera. Even on a tripod, I don’t have the steadiest of hands, and the camera doesn’t have a timer.
Lack of a self timer is a pain. It’s not something I’ve really looked into but there are some digicams with wireless remotes. Even with a less than steady tripod the oscillations will dampen out by the time the shutter trips. If it’s really bad you might consider upgrading that. You can get a qaulity but lightweight tripod for around $100. Stay away from the cheap video tripods in electronics stores.
My everyday camera is a Canon A75 which would do a good job at this with self timer. Not spectactular, not cutting edge. It’s baby bear, “just right.”
Can anyone recommend a good impact wrench for genetic engineering?
