Spain is more than a big country … culturally it is several countries. Food was amazing and very affordable. I long to go back and explore the Basque area. We spent some time in Barcelona, Seville, Granada, and the Costa del Sol. Skipped Madrid but no burning desire to go there if we go back.
The Alcázar in Seville happens to be next door to its cathedral; it’s the Muslim castle (so, it doesn’t look very much like any Westerner’s idea of a “castle”) and has a combination of Muslim, pre-Renaissance architecture (Isabel I), Renaissance (Emperor Charles V), with some 19th century bits thrown on top (Isabel II). There’s combined tickets for the two monuments.
Guindillas.
Your poor stomachs, first traumatized by Spanish hours and then by Dutch ones. JoseB goes through a similar problem every time he comes back home (he works in The Hague).
Two good things about tapas:
it is very rare to find a Spanish bar which doesn’t serve either tapas, raciones (lit “portions”) or bocadillos (“subs”), often all of the above. In places with lots of tourism, people are actually writing “tapas bar” outside but that’s to draw the tourists in: the lack of the sign doesn’t mean a lack of food.
Unlike restaurants, bars don’t close between meals.
Something else to take into account for meals: speed of service goes down as you move south. Being from the North, I find Madrid slow, Seville in the “bring a book” range and Cádiz makes me want to just walk into the kitchen and prepare it myself, it’ll be quicker.
One way to tell the Americans is that they’re the ones lined up outside the restaurants at 8:30 waiting for them to open. Works great for me, as I’m a late eater naturally.
You gotta feel for the old folks visiting there, what with them being used to those 5PM early bird specials!!
If you go to Spain in February or March, you can have an entire beachside resort to yourself. European tourists flock their in late spring, summer, and fall. When I was 9, my family visited during the winter and the seaside tourist towns were basically deserted.
My mistake was going to Spain during Holy Week. Don’t do it. Everything is closed. I also found out that Spain is freakin’ cold in April.
But I loved the food, loved the people, loved the touristy stuff. Except for the Americans I encountered in Seville who made me want to put on a Canadian flag.
From some of your other posts I understand that the desire to avoid hipsters may be much greater, and more important to you, than your OP would indicate.
There are hipsters present in Spain. Possibly fewer than in, say, Denmark, but extant nonetheless.
For some alternatives:
Donetsk in Ukraine’s Donbass region is probably largely devoid of hipsters, a complete absence of “man-buns” can be almost guaranteed. For a warmer destination, Al-Raqqah in northern Syria has zero hipsters. But I hear it is not safe, also, U.S. authorities frown on travel plans which include this destination. Alternately you could stay domestic - Mingo Junction, OH appears to offer a very low hipster density.
Or business travellers who need to be up “early” and at the office by 8am.
One of my business trips to Madrid, my coworker and I were walking around the hotel neighborhood around 8pm looking for somewhere to eat dinner. Neither of us speaks Spanish, although I have a large vocabulary of individual words from growing up in California. We walked into one place that seemed open, but nobody was in the dining area. We knew that dinner hours were later, but we didn’t know exactly when, nor did we have the language skills to ask. So we sat down, asked for cervezas.
Since we were in the empty dining room instead of the bar area, someone who I assumed was a waiter finally came over to ask what was up. He didn’t speak any English. He fired off a bunch of Spanish at us, more concerned than obnoxious, and I tried to understand him but finally had to gesticulate to him that I was sorry, no comprende. He said one more thing, it was a full sentence, but I was able to pick out three words: cucina albierta nuevo. Kitchen open nine. AHH! I told my coworker the kitchen opens at nine, and then nodded, smiling and let the waiter know I finally understood. He smiled and wandered into the back. We decided to finish our beers before we left, fortunately because five minutes later, the waiter came back and shepherded us up some stairs into a formal dining room. And then proceeded to hand us menus, serve vino, and serve us a VERY wonderful meal - steak, potatoes, the usual kind lovely hot Spanish dinner (i.e. not just something thrown together).
From that episode alone, I have a very high opinion of the Spanish and their food.
Small town in northern Spain. Actually, I lie: factory 3km away from a small town, not in the town, on a road that’s graveled only for its first km; nobody gets there by mistake unless it’s a really, really big mistake. 7am.
Line-two foreman sees an unknown car entering the parking lot. Several unknown people exit the car and start looking around. Line-two warns his packager, Punko.
As the packager ambles toward the gate, the buzzer rings. He ambles a bit less slowly (let’s just say Punko isn’t famous for his breakneck speeds) reaches the gate and fires a question in Spanish, something along the lines of ¿mande? (Spanish redneck for “how may I help you?”). One of the visitors gets closer to the gate and, very slowly, says
“I am sorry. I do not. Speak. English”. (Yup. No, he didn’t say Spanish. He said English. Four years later he still hadn’t lived that one down, nor do I expect that he ever will.)
Now, Punko isn’t very quick on the uptake, but he was capable of understanding that whatever that visitor had said, and what the visitor’s companions had said was English. He called the shift lead. The shift lead, who is actually a pretty smart guy and reads the signs on corkboards, figured it probably was the American visitors that were expected that same day, let them in, explained in writing that the office people got in at 8 (he doesn’t trust his English pronunciation), took the visitors to the coffee break room and fed them (there was always milk, coffee and several varieties of cookies to choose from, in that room). And left Punko standing guard at the gate, so that when the first English-speaking person came in, he could send her to the break room asap please!
When the factory manager asked “but why didn’t you call me?” “What for? It’s not like you could just grab your children in their pajamas and drop them at school! I figured I’d rather make sure everybody had a decent breakfast.”
Longtime Madrid resident checking in. Spain is a great country to visit. For architecture I never tire of visiting the Alhambra in Granada. There is also the Roman aqueduct and castle in Segovia, cool cathedrals in Salamanca, Burgos, Zaragoza, Toledo and Barcelona. Small ancient Celtic monestaries in Galicia.
Except for areas in the north -Galicia, Cantabria and the Basque Country, I would try to avoid mid summer visits. It is too hot.
There are lots of things to see and do and food (and drink) and lodging prices, while not cheap anymore, are still reasonable especially beyond the bigger cities.
If you go, I’d recommend finding someplace that will make you a tortilla. It’s not what you think, and it takes a lot of preparation. I’ve never seen one in an American restaurant. It’s a delicious omelet (or frittata, if you prefer), made with vegetables long-simmered in olive oil, and potatoes and eggs. It’s cooked until set and browned, then removed from the pan by flipping it over onto a plate, then put back in the pan to finish. Heaven on a plate.
Been to Spain tons of times. Currently living in Sevilla. Spain is great. I know many people swear to Barcelond, but I like traditional Spain the best.
Funny thing is, before having though of going to Sevilla I was in Odessa for some months. And there I went to see this play at their opera. The opera in Odessa is great btw.
I’ve spent time in Madrid, Toledo, Seville and Barcelona, and would go back in a heartbeat. In Seville, I’d seen everything on my to-do list, and had a free day. So I rented a bicycle and just rode up and down the river and around the city, mixing with the locals. A wonderful day, in spite of the heat. I then got a room in the overnight 11-hour train to Barcelona. An unforgettable experience!
San Sebastian has a music festival that is very impressive, and the city itself is quite scenic. It is just across the border from France and there is some spectacular geology to view if that intrests you.
It has been awhile since I was last there so I will wait for Nava to come along and correct my errors.
This is often available by the slice as part of the tapas menu in bars. Very nice.
Another suggestion on the food front is to find somewhere that is at least moderately popular with the locals and just order the menu del dia. It’s a gamble (you won’t necessarily know what you’re getting until it arrives in front of you), but it usually comprises several courses of good, hearty, tasty, honest - sometimes a little rustic - authentically Spanish food.