Help a College Kid Learn About Credit Cards

Soo…just found out I may be graduating in May. Thought it would be later because of transferring issues, but a meeting with an advisor has me at May or August at the latest. So the real world is upon me sooner than I thought.

I know having good credit is very important for a lot of things. I would like to start building up credit. I have no bills in my name (live with my parents again). I’d like to get a decent little credit card, Visa preferred (seems to be most widely accepted?) with a reasonable interest rate.

But the problem is, I really don’t know crap about credit/credit cards/anything. When I look at the terms and conditions for a credit card, my eyes cross and I really don’t know what it says. I don’t want to jump and pick a card and end up with really horrible interest rate or whatever. I don’t know exactly what a variable rate would mean for me, anything. How do I pay the bill? Ahh I’m clueless.

So any older, wiser dopers want to school me on credit cards? I’d like to make an informed decision and any help you want to give would be awesome.

Well, I’m probably not much older than you – but I’ve gained some wisdom from experience making bad choices with credit cards. I also work for a credit counseling agency.

Start with some basic credit 101.
Your credit score, which basically determines how much money you will save over the course of your life, is extremely important. It is calculated mathematically based on a variety of factors. This number ranges from 300-850.

This score is based on the following:

  1. Credit repayment history – 35%
  2. Length of your account history. – $15%
  3. Total debt-to-income ratio. (Utilization) – 30%
  4. Number of accounts/diversity of accounts – 10%
  5. Inquiries – 10%

Since you are young, you can’t do jack shit about #2 except start establishing credit ASAP.

The ones that are directly in your control, however, count big – Utilization and Credit Repayment History.

Credit Repayment History means, pay your bills on time. That’s all. Just do it. This is the number one most important thing for your credit.

Utilization is your debt-to-income ratio. You ideally want to keep this between 2% and 9%. If you have a $1000 credit limit, this means you don’t want to ever carry a balance over $90. That’s not to say you can never charge more than $90 on your credit card – just make sure you pay down every month whatever you charge.

Diversity/Inquiries aren’t really nearly as big a deal as the two listed above. If you focus on those you should really have no problem.

The higher your credit score, in general, the lower your interest rates will be when you take out a loan for a car, a home, or virtually anything else. You want low interest rates. Interest adds up FAST.

As far as the APR on credit cards, I am going to be perfectly honest and tell you that my tiny brain still has trouble gathering the mathematical complexities of how interest works. Basically Annual Percentage Rate of 7% means that if you carry a balance of $1000, you’ll end up coughing up $70 extra when you repay the debt. I think. Paging all accountants!

Sufficed to say, if you get a credit card with a 0% introductory interest rate, please be advised that if you miss a single payment, that interest rate will skyrocket and you will find yourself coughing up way more than you budgeted. Also be wary of ‘‘hardship’’ programs that credit cards offer. This means you might get a lowered interest rate or suspension of payments for a fixed period of time because you are experiencing financial difficulties. But at the end of that period of time, your interest will skyrocket.

Credit card companies will do everything in their power to make money off you. They will charge late fees, hike your interest and keep giving you more and more credit, tempting you to spend, spend, spend. Please remember they are loaning you money, and that loan comes with a very high price. There is not currently a legal limit on how much interest they are permitted to charge. I have spoken to clients who have 30% interest on balances with thousands of dollars because of a couple missed payments. You don’t want to be those clients.

I would advise you not to ever put anything on a credit card you can’t pay off immediately before the grace period. Don’t charge things like vacations, clothing, or things you really don’t need but rather very much would like. It is going to be very tempting to do otherwise. You have to be strict with yourself. Remind yourself that anything you buy with a credit card isn’t really yours until you’ve paid it back.

That’s all I’ve got for now. You are talking to someone who used to have serious money management issues. I learned all these lessons the hard way. Hopefully you won’t have to.

ETA: One last thing… the Universal Default Clause. If you miss a single credit card payment, your interest rates can go up across the board–on other credit cards, personal loans, you name it. It can hit you like a wall of flame if you aren’t careful.

Before you select a card, find out it’s rate and annual fees. Some cards start you on an attractive rate that changes after 6 months or so.

I use only two cards.

My American Express Card earns Air Miles for me, and I use it for almost all my purchases, including to pay some bills. It has no annual fee, and I pay it off every month. For an annual fee of $50 a year, I can opt for the “Gold” Air Miles card which would double my air miles earning power.
With this AMEX account, I use an “easy-pay” tag to buy gas which automatically credits me with any active promo coupon, and reduces the price at the pump automatically.

My Visa is a simple “Value Visa” that I use on the rare occassion that my AMEX is not accepted. I believe AMEX costs the merchant a bit more, so some smaller ma & pa operations do not take AMEX for that reason.

The key to credit card usage is simple. Pay it off completely every month and no interest is charged. If you only make the minimum payment, they charge you ugle interest rates on the unpaid balance. That’s how they make their money.

Gas and department store credit cards have some of the highest interest rates.

Keep your credit limit low to start. You can always ask them to increase your limit later if your account is in good standing.

In 20 years of having credit cards, I have yet to be charged with anything more than the annual fee.

Good Luck with it.
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That was very helpful as a jumping off point. Thank you, olivesmarch4th.

When I go to look for specific cards to sign up for, what kind of interest rate should I expect to get as a first time card holder? I am only getting this card to build up credit, I am terrified of screwing up my money situation so I will likely only use it for gas and stuff like that that I always have money for anyway. I’m very used to having to save up to buy pretty much anything (because I won’t buy anything unless I’ll have a looooot of money left over), so hopefully overspending/non payment will not be a problem. I just have no idea what kind of interest rate I should be expecting. And if I don’t screw up my payments, will my interest rate still go up for any other reason? I keep seeing ‘variable interest rate’ and they list a number between 13-15%. Will it actually be the number they list as long as I don’t screw up my payments or does variable mean it can go higher? I need to know what to look for in the fine print.

And on preview, thank you to meek for more info. I’ve seen cards that offer 0% for 6 months then the whole “15% variable rate” after that. That’s one of my biggest questions so far.

Watch out for cards specifically targetted at the bad credit/no credit market. as a graduating student, you may not need them since you would be likely to enter decent employment soon.

The companies have pretty lax acceptance terms for such cards, but because they regard them as a riskier proposition (more chance the customer will default on the payments) they tend to “front-load” them with fees, and higher interest rates.

As an example, you may be told you can have a card with an initial limit of, say, $300. Then when you read the small print, you find that there are upfront fees of $247 or something. So you start with available credit of only $53 and, much more importantly, you’re already carrying a balance from the start. If you can pay the fees in the first month, all well and good. If not, though, the interest will accumulate fast.

Assuming you have a checking account, your bank may be able to help. Also, there’s some interesting advice on financial topics at Bankrate.com

My advice is to go to your bank and get their Visa card. Use it sparingly and pay it off immediately. Do this for a while before you buy anything of consequence with it, and you will have a good start on a credit rating.
Later, after you have a good job and some time on the job, get the regular American Express card, but never charge more than you can pay off before the grace period.
When you use either card, bank that amount of cash in your bank account until the bill on the card comes in.

I just found this card and was wondering if someone will help me look over the fine print. If you click ‘apply now’ and just go to that next page, the link for the terms and conditions is at the top.

Take the long view. Use your credit card for everything you buy, and never buy anything you can’t pay for before you pay any interest or charges at all.

Never buy anything you cannot pay for before you pay any interest at all.

Don’t get a lot of cards. Get a card that has no fees, or charges other than interest. Keep it for a very long time, and check your account activity on line often. In a few years folks will come out of the walls trying to give you credit. Don’t get more cards, unless you find a real life situation where the one you have won’t do. But never buy anything you cannot pay for before you pay any interest at all.

House loans, car loans, and that sort of debt will also build your credit rating. Pay them on time. Borrow for the shortest term you can afford, and when you do buy, multiply the monthly payment times the number of months, and don’t ever forget that that is what you are paying for it. If you want to buy something, and you cannot wait to pay cash for it all, if you want to protect your credit record, do this: Set up an automatic deposit into your savings that is equal to what the final monthly payment will be. Pay it for at least three months, six is better. Then, use the balance to pay a larger down payment, and the regular deposit to make the payments. They should be less than the payment, so save the rest.

If you pay cash for everything, you end up getting everything for ten percent less than if you keep a balance on your credit card. Get just a little bit ahead, and you just got yourself a ten percent cost of living raise. Your credit rating will go way beyond what you need. Don’t use it.

It turns out that arranging not to use credit will do more for your credit rating than anything you can do by borrowing. People who don’t need to borrow money have great credit.

Tris

On the face of it, that doesn’t look too bad. The interest rate (after promotional offer expires) is reasonable. Also note that if you follow the advice given by others - that is, don’t carry a balance and pay all your bills well before the due date - then you won’t actually pay interest at all. Again, you need to be sure to spend only what you can cover within the current billing cycle.

What you can see, though, from that small print, is a clear example of what will happen if you miss payments or exceed your credit limit. You’ll be hit with fees and your interest rate will rise dramatically. In short, you’ll pay through the nose. That card doesn’t look any worse than average for this sort of thing, but it still shows how much more expensive things will get if you make just one or two miscalculations.

I agree with most of what’s been said so far. The high points:

  1. Pay off your balance every month. Only use it so that you can stick to this rule.
  2. You should be able to find a no annual fee (but perhaps higher interest rate), grace period, card to start with. If you stick to rule #1, the interest rate is irrelevant, so it would be fine to start with.

The card in the link sounds reasonable. I have a Citibank card, and they are one of the bigger credit card companies.

As mentioned, the credit card companies want to make as much money off of you as they can. So if you miss a payment, they may penalize you and jack up your interest rate. But conversely, if you stay on top of your payments, you can can simply ask them to raise your limit if you have a big expenditure coming (like airline tickets or something). You don’t have to wait for them to increase your limit. If you’ve been staying on top of your payments, you are a GREAT customer. And these days there’s lots of competition out there, so if they don’t increase your limit, just threaten to cancel.

I have found that carrying two credit cards (from different companies) is useful. If someone erroneously calls in your card as stolen, you’re SOL. Or if your card is stolen and you have to cancel it, until you get a replacement, you’re SOL. Also if the magnetic stripe gets zapped, or the card gets broken, you’re SOL. So having a backup has been useful. Again, if it is no fee, grace period, then it doesn’t cost you anything to have it.
You do need to use your cards occasionally, though. If there is no activity for a year, they will usually cancel your card (they’ll tell you about it, though).

When you first get your card, there is a huge temptation to go apeshit and buy all those things you’ve always wanted. But remember, if you don’t pay off the balance each month, you’ll likely be paying some serious interest. So start out slow.

From the perspective of a Mom who has two college kids currently going through the exact same thing this year…

The two most important things you need to know about having a credit card are:

  1. Always pay off your balance every month. Even if you find some card with some kind of low interest rate, still you’ll be unpleasantly surprised at how the interest adds up if you get in the habit of letting the balance roll over every month. Pay that sucker off.

Which brings us to…

  1. When you’re just starting out, unless you’re earning megabucks as a CEO somewhere, never charge something that you can’t pay off the next month. The only time you should ever charge something that you KNOW you’re going to have to take several months to pay off, and just bite the bullet and pay the interest, is like when your van blows up in the middle of a vacation, and the only way to get it, and you, home again is to dump the whole $8,000 mess on the Visa card, and figure on eating beans for six months until it’s paid off. IOW, an emergency.

And don’t get suckered into signing up for department store credit cards, even though they offer you a tempting “15% off!” this purchase if you sign up for a card. They still count as a separate credit card on your credit report, so if you have a Sears Discover card and a Kohl’s Discover card and a Bergner’s Discover card and a Maurice’s Discover card and an Old Navy Discover card and a J.C. Penney’s Discover card, your credit report will show that you have six credit cards, not just one Discover card, as you might assume.

Get a credit card that has the rewards you want. Ignore the apr, and treat the card as a debit card, not a credit card. Make sure there are no signup/annual fees associated with it. Never, ever (ever) carry a balance on it. The APR doesn’t matter if you always pay it off in full. Also, don’t buy things you can’t afford to pay for right now. Don’t buy something this month thinking you’ll be able to pay it off when your paycheck comes at the start of next month…Never know what might happen…you might get laid off, your car might get stolen, you might run into a fire.

Later, once you’ve built up some credit, you can go shopping around for a card with a lower APR, for emergencies when you absolutely have to carry a balance. Though you really shouldn’t ever run into those…once every few years maybe, unless you have really bad luck.

Don’t borrow money at a higher interest rate than the return you are getting on said money.

ETA: Assuming your overall goal is to end up with more money than you started out with.

Yeah I just want this card to build up credit so eventually when I go to get an apartment or whatever later on I won’t need my parents to cosign. I am not getting this card to buy more crap than I can afford.

I’ve heard something like that it’s bad for your credit score to have a lot of debt but that it’s also bad to have a lot of available credit that isn’t being used. I don’t know exactly what that means or if it’s true.

Two questions:

  1. Does debt mean debt you’re paying interest on - that is unpaid balances?

  2. Is < 2% bad? Ours is 0% (unpaid balances) for obvious reasons.

We get cards that give money back, and never pay interest, so we make money off the damn things. I don’t know if that option is available to first time users.

It’s bad in that if you have 20,000 dollars in available credit and a total debt of 6,000, you are using only 30% of your available credit. If you cancel a card then your available credit will drop, say to 13,000. Now your debt of 6,000 is taking up 46% of your available credit and that’s bad. If you don’t carry a balance then it’s not a problem.

I’m not sure if that’s true or not. I know that it is bad for your credit score to have cards that are maxed out, but underused? No idea.

Still, I do think that it’s probably not too important, and that the best thing to build credit is to be a reliable payer. Since carrying a balance costs money (for no gain to you - think of interest and fees as money down the drain) I would guess that the advantage of keeping your outgoing cash to a minimum would outweigh any slight advantage in paying all that interest to improve your credit score. If indeed there is an advantage at all.

Thats all you need to know. Don’t blow it.

In addition to wonderful advice already given, I would add -

  • Make a note of the day that your bill is due every month. My just-a-day-late fees hav been upwards of $35, over the last few years I’ve paid more in late fees than I have in interest. :frowning:

  • If you happen to miss a due date and get charged a late fee, you can call and ask the fee to be waived. IME they will wait until the payment has cleared but they will often waive it.

Of course all this is secondary to

  • Pay the full balance every month

Are you in any way eligible for USAA? If so, I would suggest you get a card through them. I’m in roughly the same situation you are, and started shopping for a credit card a few months ago. USAA had by far the most reasonable rates and terms among all of the broke-ass-student-cards that I looked at.