8 rounds. 7 in the magazine and 1 in the chamber.
I think muzzle energy is weight X squared velocity. A quick way to approximate muzzle energy is: Weight in grains X velocity in fps X velocity in fps divided by 450 000= muzzle energy in foot-pounds.
Trigger type: What are the reasons to favor single action? Making sure that the first trigger pull doesn’t differ from the following ones while being lighter than double-only? Does it make that much of a difference, outside of shooting competitions?
How easy is it to de-cock a pistol’s hammer? Would a novice be realistically liable to slip and have a shot go off?
The only person I know who has done empirical research of weapon effectiveness is Dr Martin Fackler. Has anypony else done research? You’d think that some of the worst 20th century governments would have done some very empirical research on terminal ballistics but so far, all I’ve ever seen is that the Germans found out a 9mm ball can go through 3 bodies.
For the most part, discussions about “stopping power” are worthless, since shot placement is the primary thing that matters. More training = better shot placement.
Yes, shot placement is primary, but it doesn’t mean that what’s secondary or tertiary has little importance. Otherwise, we’d all just shoot 22lr.
I am doubtful that adding a 2.43mm diameter a hole really (going from 9mm to .45) does a lot the majority of the time, but having a bullet that penetrates enough to reach and go through a vital organ or artery (rather than stopping before it gets there) does matter.
In fairness, you did say “for the most part”. When is it relevant?
From personal experience: a deer hit through the first and second cervical vertebrae with a rather ho-hum. 38 special cast lead semi-wadcutter load will drop as if struck by lightning. A deer hit through the lungs with a rather stoutly loaded. 44 magnum hollow point can run a very long way and into some very inhospitable terrain.
The ability to place your shots precisely trumps other concerns. This is why I say that until the. 22 is mastered, shooting anything else is just a way to waste money. The.22 is cheap so you can afford to shoot a lot of it in practice. It has low noise and low recoil. Assuming you didn’t by some cast zinc piece of crap, the guns are accurate and durable. Basically, if you can’t shoot a. 22 well, you can’t shoot and need more practice in proper technique. Picking up a larger caliber gun will just let you pay more for each miss with greater attendant noise and recoil.
Scumpup, a question on sights for the beginner: Does it make more sense to stick with iron sights while mastering the .22, at least at first? I’ve had people tell me to get a scope or a red dot for sighting both the CZ Lux rifle and the Colt Woodsman Match Target pistol, but I’ve preferred not to; rather, to stay with the gun’s original sights while I try to master proper grip, stance, trigger squeeze, etc. Am I making things unnecessarily difficult by doing so?
Adding: I don’t have an instructor, other than casual (and welcome) advice at the range, so I’m pretty much winging it on the learning.
I always recommend learning with iron sights first. In fact, I use nothing but. Anybody can hit with a sight once it’s dialed in. Hitting the target precisely with iron sights is much more difficult, and if you can hit with iron sights you don’t need an aiming device.
Thanks, AD. Good to know I’m doing something right. 
Optical sights aren’t even the future, they are the present. Grip, trigger control, breathing and such are all independent of what type of sights you use. I cling to iron sights because I am a grumpy old bastard, no other reason. I’d be unable to compete in a bullseye match today for exactly that reason. Using iron sights teaches you to use iron sights, nothing more or less. If using an optical sight makes shooting easier and more fun for you, then use one. Don’t let the harrumphing of grumpy old bastards who think their way is the only way make you unhappy. Guns and sights have been evolving since they were invented and grumpy old bastards have clung to yesterday’s gear all along.
I feel much better about my gun purchase now that I have it stored in a safe. I think the safe is the best option…this way the gun can be kept loaded and ready to go but is inaccessible to my boys. I got that gun vault safe with the four buttons on the top of it where you enter a series of multiple button pushes as your code. It also came with two keys that I have hidden in a locked box in the trunk of my car. The safe was just big enough for me to squeeze two boxes of ammo and a loaded extra clip in there without blocking my access to quickly removing the gun.
Now I just need to find the time to go and practice with the damn thing!
Oh, and what sounds like a silly question: so is my gun registered now? Just the process of purchasing it registers it or do I need to do other paperwork with my local/county/whatever law enforcement? I’d hate to be taking the thing to the range one day and get pulled over for something and find myself headed off to jail because I failed to do something I was supposed to.
Are you supposed to register your weapon? If so, that is a separate process. Upon looking, the answer is no, you do not have to register your handgun.
Paradoxically, the state knows that you have it whether you register it or not. Here in PA we have to fill out the State Police form in addition to the 4473, and while they say they do not require registration I later found out in a very surprising way that they had every handgun I own in a database. I have a problem with that, but this isn’t really the time or place for that particular rant.
Just completely IMHO, but I wouldn’t leave your safe keys in your car. Cars can get stolen, broken into, etc. I’d put one on your primary key ring (the one with car keys, house keys, etc) and maybe leave the other in a safe deposit box, or with a trusted relative or friend, or maybe in your desk/toolbox/locker at work.
I’m kind of late to the thread, but I have a 1911 for my bigger pistol, a .22 revolver for my cheap target gun, and a Ruger LCP for my CC gun.
I’m thinking of putting one in a safe deposit box but I don’t want to put the other on my keyring due to my sons (I’m thinking about when they are teenagers) inherent curiosity. I just need to hide it someplace clever but quickly accessible in case the batteries on the safe fail or I forget my code or whatever.
I do have to say though that installing those batteries in that thing was a PITA for sure. I found it really difficult to align the battery tray with the underside of the top of the safe due to the small inner dimensions. You can barely move your hands around in there.
I have low-light vision issues, I have a laser sight because I wouldn’t be able to see the fixed sights in dim light. Also I’ve heard of cases where someone had to shoot from an awkward angle where they couldn’t line up fixed sights. I’m an old-fashioned-way guy myself but laser sights have convinced me.
I’m unsure of the wisdom of using a .22 as a learner/practice gun: the noise and recoil is so low that wouldn’t you not be accustomed to a larger gun?
If you can’t control the smaller gun, what magick will manifest such that you can control the larger gun?
FTR, yes, you can start with a larger gun and learn to shoot. Using the smaller gun lets you practice the basics more economically.
In my case, the couple times I fired a 9mm pistol I was surprised how accurate I was with it, but then I only applied the breathing and relaxation techniques I learned in the Army when firing assault rifles. The recoil didn’t bother me at all, and trying out the .45 felt right and ergonomic in my hand. I’m by no means a huge dude or have huge hands, I’m average body-wise, but the .45 I ended up getting felt perfectly natural in my hand(s).
And at just under .40 cents a round, it isn’t going to be incredibly expensive to go pop off 50 to 100 rounds each time I hit the range. I can’t wait to try it out!
So tell me…since I do not yet have a conceal carry permit (which I will try to get soon), how do I legally transport my firearm in my car? Gun in its case empty of rounds inside the passenger cabin with my ammo in the trunk or something?
The gun and ammo have to be separated enough to where you can’t easily put them together. Say, gun in the case on the seat and ammo in the trunk, or something like that.