So I’ve got this old piece of furniture that I’m going to turn into a kitchen island. I’ve already redone the bottom of it, but for the top I want to take pieces of wood and fashion a sort of rectangular box, then tile the top of the box, add some molding around the top, and then attach the whole thing to the top of the piece.
(I hope you get the idea; I realize that explanation was not the model of clarity.)
Here’s where you come in: I’ve got a hammer, a drill, assorted screwdrivers and pliers and whatnot, and that’s it. I need some woodworking tools but I’m not sure exactly what I should get. I’m hoping that your suggestions will save me from running to Home Deport four thousand times this weekend.
So far I’m thinking about getting a circular saw and clamps, but what else should I get? It would also be cool if you could include the approximate price for any more expensive items (over $50) so I’ll have some idea of what it should go for.
Depends on how fancy you want to get. For the basics, the only thing that you might want to consider aside from the circular saw and clamps would be a miter box to do the molding.
I’m presuming that you will be making the box from plywood or something large that you would not need to glue several boards together to make the top.
Don’t forget safety glasses and ear protection and keep those fingers clear!
By the way, it might be better to attach the top to the bottom before you tile but I could be visualizing what you intend wrong.
Well, I was thinking that if messed up the tiling (I’ve never done tile before) I could do it again on another piece of board without having messed up the whole piece of furniture. Does this sound OK?
This is a tricky one to answer as the right tools may depend entirely on what skills you have. I can give you a few general ideas but you will be making lots of trips to home depot.
A handheld circular saw, often called a “Skilsaw” which is a brand name, is terrific for construction but not good for cabinetmaking type woodwork as you’ll often have pieced too small to safely and accurately use it on. I prefer a good table saw but a decent one is significantly more than $50 and inexpensive universal motor, direct drive tablesaws are crap. I’d get a nice back saw for starters plus mabe a set of wood chisels and a block plane. The chisels and plane will need to be sharpened correctly and if you want I can help you with a simple method using plate glass and silicone carbide sandpaper. If you look at a first power tool I’d get a router.
Knowing how to use those tools safely and effectively is another matter. Start browsing American Woodworker and Tauntaun’s Fine Woodworking. Both have good tips and some how tow. They are geared toward people who already have some WW skills so maybe look for a book on basic cabinetmaking or general woodwork.
I’d suggest a power compound miter if you think you’ll be doing more of this type of work in the future, i.e. adding molding to a room, etc. However, they ain’t cheap and if this is the one project then you can get by with less.
Taxguy can you give us some more details? What were you planning to make this box out of and are you only looking for tools for this particular project or are you planning to take up woodworking as a hobby? Also, what kind of skills/experience do you have?
For powertools, I’d suggest a good jigsaw as opposed to a circular saw. Much quieter, more precise and more versatile, and if you clamp a 2x4 down as a guide, it can cut nice and straight, too. I built myself a bed with one, and with a decent blade it can cut 2x4’s, which is about as thick a piece as I need to work with. Unfortunately the one I used was borrowed, and I’m not sure how much they go for. Probably more than I can afford On the other hand, for what you’re suggesting, and if you’re on a budget, go with hand tools (but high quality ones) and spend lots on a workmate and lots of clamps (I only own two, and they are not nearly enough, so I probably fail the Cranky test) and mitre boxes and such.
An island cabinet would not be my first choice as an “intro-to-cabinetry” project - a free-standing box is subject to all kinds of abuse.
That said, you are looking at a mitre saw (power (>$200) is nice, but a GOOD manual setup is usable) or a table saw (>$300 for a decent one).
Use 3/4" CDX plywood for the top (secure it to the base with drywall screws driven FROM THE BOTTOM of the corner blocks)
Attach the rim molding BEFORE tiling - there are specialty clamps for this - they look like a “C” clamp, with an extra pad in the center of the “C”, but you can cludge it by driving a 6p nail in the top and hooking a straight clamp on it.
Mask the molding when tiling.
Oh yes - you do have a local source for straight, properly cut and dried hardwood, right?
And get a #2 phillips screwdriver bit for the drill (assuming it is variable speed) - it really speeds up assembly.
You will also need dowels, corner clamps, dowel jigs, a level, bunches of glue blocks.
Well, this can be as complicated or simple as you want it to be. For the molding, you’ll need something to cut it to length, so you’ll need a miter box and saw. Do NOT get the crappy cheap plastic kind or it will drive you nuts trying to get a clean cut. I think a sort of good one runs in the $30.00-$40.00 range.
For making the box – if you make the base out of plywood, you’ll need a circular saw or jigsaw to cut it. You may need some C-clamps and a straightedge to do a good job of trimming it. Don’t scrimp on either the circular saw or the jigsaw. I’ve got a DeWalt circular saw and a Bosch jigsaw and have no complaints with either of them – both run about $150.00.
Depending on the use to which you are putting your kitchen island (i.e. if you’re going to be pounding on it at all), I recommend 3/4 inch plywood topped by 1/2 inch backerboard for the tile base. You want a fairly stiff, flat surface for tile – if the surface flexes, the tile is going to break or detach.
(Do you need a list of stuff for tiling as well?)
Plan in advance for how you’re going to attach your tiled surface to the island. (Typically the plywood and backerboard is screwed onto the surface, but depending on the piece you’re mounting it on, you may need to account for seasonal wood movement.)
For attaching the molding, you will need brads and a nail set. Matching wood putty (or those wax crayons) for filling the holes. Maybe wood glue as well for that “belt and suspenders” craftsmanship.
Sandpaper for finishing the molding. Brushes and steel wool or non-metallic sanding pads for applying the finish.
**A:**6 Jorgensens, four pony 24" bar clamps. about ten assorted small clamps and a half dozen sets of pipe bar clamps.
B: “I have enough clamps” is a logically invalid statement.
I have a project coming up and want to try using vacuum bagging to laminate two pieceas of 3/4" baltic birch for a workbench top. The weight of the atmosphere above the work area becomes the clamp
Cool, thanks for all the responses. It probably doesn’t matter anymore, but to answer the questions above: skills=0, and I may do more projects, but Bob Vila and Norm Abram need not look for new jobs.
I just had to link you to the most helpfull woodworker on the net.
Always a gentleman, who answers his own mail, he’s willing to help you answer any Q’s you may have. He evn sent us an autographed set of plans for his hand lathe/scroll saw.
Yup, it also might help you to find out when this program Woodwright’s Shop and others air on your PBS station. Lots of good tips
On the other hand, for what you’re suggesting, and if you’re on a budget, go with hand tools (but high quality ones) and spend lots on a workmate and lots of clamps (I only own two, and they are not nearly enough, so I probably fail the Cranky test) and mitre boxes and such.