Help me shop for a bike

In My Humble Opinion
1

I’m thinking this is going to be more of an IMHO than a GQ, in that I’m looking for shopping advice and opinions on specific bikes.

I’ve been thinking about buying a bike for a while. I haven’t ridden one since I was a kid, but I live in a nice level area and I was thinking it would be good exercise and fun. I was thinking about getting a real live Big Girl Bike, you know, from a bike shop. I’d be riding it on streets; I don’t see myself going off road. I know there’s a lot of serious bike Dopers around; I need your advice, but not that multi-thousand-dollar bike you ride. :wink:

I know it’s bad to get a Wal-Mart bike, or one like that, because they’re too heavy and I wouldn’t enjoy riding it. There are a couple local bike shops around town, I know, and I guess I’ll go to one of them. About how much should I be prepared to spend on a bike I enjoy riding? Will I have to get those little clippy things, or the shoes, or whatever? Can’t you just get, you know, pedals? Or do grownups on Real Bikes not ever wear street shoes? Will I have to wear a helmet?

If I go to the bike shop, what sort of questions should I be ready to ask? What will they need to know about me? What should I be looking for in a bike and in the salespeople? How do I know if they’re trying to oversell me on something I don’t need? Can I just buy one “off the rack” or does it have to be adjusted to me specifically? Will it need maintenance? Can I do it myself? If I can’t, how often would I have to bring it in and how much will it cost me in the long haul?

I’d like to see some suggestions of what to buy before I head into the shop. I’m not looking to spend a lot of money, but I want to spend enough to be happy with what I’ve bought. There’s no point in going cheap and then never riding the thing. I’d really appreciate some links to appropriate bikes with cost estimates.

2

I’m not into road bikes at all, but I can answer two of your questions.

Yes, you need a helmet. They are nowhere near as dorky as they were 10 years ago, and the protection afforded by them is invaluable.

No, you don’t have to have special pedals and shoes. I live in a college town, and I hat having my feet attached to the bike when I’m in traffic with a bunch of drunks. I have to have the ability to ditch without unhooking my feet first.

3

I’d like to chime in and tell you not to immediately disregard Wal-Mart bikes. Last year I was in your position, wanting to get some exercise, get outside, and do something not boring. I went to Wal-Mart and opted for the $70 model, rather than the base $60 model. It lasted me 3 or 4 months before the wheel got out of whack, started rubbing the frame, and made it near impossible to ride. But more importantly, those 3 or 4 months showed me that I need to invest some money into a good bike that won’t break in 3 or 4 months. It also helped me know the questions to ask a real bike salesman and give me some experience in things I was/wasn’t looking for in a “real” bike.

A few of my friends fell into the “I need a $400 bike to enjoy riding” trap, rode it a handful of times and figured out they didn’t like it. That would have stung a lot less if it was a $60 lesson instead of a $400 one, ya know?

4

It sounds like you’re on the right track, some general points:

The entry level bike in your local bike shop (LBS) is where you need to be spending your money. This is actually were the real value is in the bike market, so you can expect to get a great ride for a few hundred quid/dollars. Choosing a good place is actually the hard part, if there’s a LBS nearby you’re all set, they’ll value your buisness and spend time sorting you out.

You should expect to be able to test ride the bike, and I’m not just talking about whizzing around the carpark, take it out for as long as you need. They will also fit the bike to your frame, this is the only thing you really need to worry about. The bike has to fit you or it’ll be no fun.

Forget about weight. All entry level bikes are heavy and there’s nothing wrong with this. Choose a major brand and you’ll be reasonably sure of a well-made machine with a sensible geometry. No way should you start off with clipless pedals, something to aim for maybe. Ask for a set of flat pedals. A helmet is absolutely obligatory. No one serious rides without a helmet on or off road.

A rigid bike is probably the order of the day given your interests, although full suspension may not be too much more expensive. A cheap full suspension bike is to be avoided like the plague. Bicycle maintenance is something you learn over time. Learning to fix a flat tire is the obvious place to start.

I only ride offroad, and I’ve never seen a mountainbike with a girls frame. Maybe they’re still available, but it sounds like something you’d see on a grocery bike. Not a good idea.

Best of luck, cycling is the greatest sport :slight_smile:

5

Sorry, should read front suspension may not be that big of a deal cost wise. Don’t get a full suspension bike!!

No disrespect Wasson, but Walmart toy bikes are worthless pieces of junk that are as likely to put you off cycling as turn you on to it. Their sales staff know very little about cycling and will not be able to size the bike to fit you. As you point out, they’re in the bin after three months anyway and you’re $70 dollars out of pocket.

If the OP lays down $400 on a bike and hates it (impossible!! :slight_smile: ) then it will still have resale value (ebay is huge for cycling stuff).

6

I was exactly where you were a few years ago. I’m still riding the bike I got, riding it a lot and considering another bike this season.

Local bike shops are great. They generally won’t carry bikes that aren’t decent quality, so the unacceptably low end is weeded out for you. Most will have several major brands - all of which will have an entry level bike that would be a good choice. They’ll likely be called ‘comfort’, ‘commuter / town’, or ‘cross / hybrid’. Prices are quite varied, I’d guess $250-400 covers most of what would be appropriate. You can often find last year’s model for $50 bucks or so less, though selection for size will be limited.

As to what to expect at a bike shop: I’ve only been to one where I really felt like they’re only goal was to sell me a bike. Obivously that’s part of their goal - but generally they really really want you to enjoy biking. As I mentioned earlier, I’ve never known a local bike shop to carry a crappy bike, so there’s no reason to not consider the cheapest one they have. Tell them what type of riding you’re shooting for (the description you posted here is fine) and be honest. You don’t need to worry about brands of components (gears, shifters, etc) at this point. You’ll get plenty of good riding out of anything they have to sell you. They should recommend that you try a bike from 2 or more brands as they will have slightly different fits and that’s really what’s important at this point.

All you need right now is a helmet. You might consider getting this first and separately, so that you can stop into different shops and take some bikes for good solid test rides.

I’ll try to stop in later with some links and other thoughts. A good basic bike was one of the best purchases I’ve ever made - I hope it is for you, too!

7

If possible choose a shop that is close enough for you to cycle to.

My wife bought a new mountain bike for $300. It’s a Giant, but I would not purchase a MT bike for road use. Probably you are looking at $500 for a decent hybrid or road bike.

I think you should get a “fit kit” done or some sort of sizing. They might just ask for your inseam, but really they need to know how long your arms legs and torso are.

Any decent shop will service you bike once you ride it for several hours because the cables will stretch causing shifting to deteriorate. There is usually a manufacturer warranty. Tightening your cables and brakes is fairly easy to learn to do. The bike shop should show you.

How often you break things and how much it costs depends greatly on how much you ride and how hard you are on the bike. I own 6 bikes and currently am experiencing a bicycle repair holocaust. My wife’s 3 bikes maybe end up in the shop once a year. Labor on most repairs around here is less than 50$. For example a simple wheel repair (truing) is $12. On the other hand new parts can be expensive.

For a starter bike which will be used on the road I would recommend a hybrid. These are essentially road bikes with straight bars. They tend to have fatter tires which are easier to maintain, and the geometry makes them easy to handle. For similar reasons touring bikes are good but tend to cost more. If you ride it a lot you might switch to drop bars, which I feel are vastly superior for any ride over ½ hour. Using bar end shifters makes this a cheap upgrade.

I would look at some lesser advertised brands such as Jamis and stay away from big names such as Specialized or Trek.

8

—Wal-Mart bikes are total shit. The bearings are cheap as possible and often unshielded (this means that you can SEE the ball-bearings in a circular slot around the axle!), and non-replaceable. So if you ride 50-75 miles and wear out the bearings, you have to buy a whole new wheel. For small kids they can do okay, but compound cheap unreplaceable bearings + adult weight + long distances, and they quickly become a lousy deal.
…

      • If you want a bicycle that is truly comfortable to ride, you MUST get a recumbent. They are simply TOTALLY comfortable to ride. You will not get any of the aches you get on a regular bike on a recumbent; they just don’t happen. It sounds too good to be true, but it’s still true.

  • The reason people buy bikes and then never ride them is very often because upright bikes are uncomfortable to ride. It doesn’t matter if it cost $200 or $2000, and there’s no accessory you can add that will “fix” it.

Cycle Genius is one lower-priced brand, they have some in the $500 range. http://www.cyclegenius.com/models05.htm
The Sun Super Cruzer is another lower-priced model: http://www.sunbicycles.com/03/html_04/recumbents/ez1_sx.html
Short-wheelbase ones handle jittery, long and compact-long wheelbase ones (like the bikes above) ride a lot steadier.

(I have a Sun EZ-Speedster CX, FWIW)
~

9

A decent entry level bike will be around $350 or so. Expect to add on a bit for stuff like a helmet (yes, you need one). Other things like shorts, gloves, cycling shoes are nice to have but you don’t need them right away, though they are worth having. A basic tool kit and saddle bag, pump, water bottle and cage are probably worth getting right away. Flat tires are just a fact of riding, and not hard to fix. The bike shop should show you how if you don’t know already.

The bike should fit you, and the shop should know how to do it. Adjustments like saddle height and stem length are something that should be done before you leave the shop. As you ride more, you’ll want to tweak things a bit (usually saddle adjustments) so watch how they do it and buy the appropriate allen wrench.

You don’t need clipless pedals and special shoes right away. The shop can install normal pedals for you if you don’t want to bother with special shoes right away (if your bike comes with clipless pedals, make sure you hang on to them to install later, you probably will).

The bike will need some maintenance, but not too much. Some bike shops offer free adjustments within a few months of purchase, otherwise a minor tune up is $30 or so, you might need it once a year. If you are handy you could do most of it yourself.

Now, just to offer a possible bike. The Trek 7300 FX. Road tires (fairly wide), no suspension (since you won’t be going off road), mountain bike style bars rather than road style drop bars, lower end but servicable components. $420.

Something like the Bianchi Boardwalk might work too. I think most brands have these types of bikes.

10

If you really want to spend money, do it on your seat. Replace the original, rock-hard saddle with something smooshy. You may prefer a seatpost suspension, but if you choose this option, your first bicycle accessory should be a thin cable that attaches the seat to the frame.

If your area really is flat, save the money you would spend on 14, 21, or 28 gears, and spend it on better brakes and shifters.

And if you’re mostly road riding, forget about getting a front or rear suspension-- these are designed for bombing down mountains, and will only slow you down on the road as all your pedalling gets transformed into moving your bike’s frame up and down.

Any bike shop worth its salt will throw in a summer’s worth of tune-ups for free. At a minimum, your new bike will need to be tuned after about a month, as your brake and shifter cables stretch through regular use.

11

Don’t those recumbent bikes put you awfully low on the road, though? Do you feel high up enough when you ride with cars?

12

Most of the recumbent bikes around here have little neon flags on a long stiff wire (like dune buggies or ATVs have).

I spent 3 days with a recumbent bike once (rented it while at a resort) and it made my hips hurt. It was okay other than that, but I wasn’t that impressed.

13

I’ve been looking around on some manufacturer’s websites - what’s a “comfort bike”? Is it just set up so you don’t have to lean forward as much?

14

You’re joking, right? You’d seriously recommend a recumbent as a first bike for someone? You have to learn how to ride a standard bike before you go out on a limb
with such a specialised vehicle. I say specialised as they are made for touring IMO, they suck in traffic.

BTW, I totally agree with you about the comfort angle, they are great to ride.

15

Not all recumbent bikes are specialized touring bikes. You’re probably thinking about recumbent bikes like these. But the ones DougC listed above are designed as comfort bikes, and perfectly suitable for riding in traffic. The seats aren’t very reclined, and the seat height is high enough to provide a good view of the road. Handling is different, but not worse than upright bikes. Other “comfort” recumbent bikes include RANS Tailwind and Burley Sand Point.

This shouldn’t happen. I’ll bet the bike was not fitted to you properly - seat adjustment is crucial on a recumbent bike. I’ve been on several 500+ mile tours on recumbent bikes and have not experienced any pain anywhere (except sore muscles).

An alternative to recumbents is the emerging category of “semi-recumbent” or “flat feet” bikes. On a normal road bike or hybrid bike, if you adjust the seat height properly you can’t put your feet down flat while seated. Semi-recumbent bikes place the seat further back and lower, allowing you to put your feet down. Electra Townie is probably the most widely available model. My LBS has it in stock and it looks like a good solid bike. The RANS Fusion is a higher end model and I’ve heard very positive comments about it. I’m fighting the urge to buy one myself (actually the offroad version called Dynamik), but I already have 5 recumbent bikes…

16

Just looking at that dynamik link you posted scr4, amazed to see it being described as a great climber! That is very counter-intuitive to me, how can this be true when the riders weight is so far back, and you don’t appear to be getting the full power benefits of the recumbent position? Have you ever taken one out?

17
      • There are some that are built very low to the ground, but not the ones I suggested. Most put you pretty near eye-level with drivers. And they are easy to ride, if you can handle a regular bike you won’t have a problem. It takes 5, maybe 10 minutes to get used to.
  • You can still get regular pedals, I wear regular running shoes when I ride. The only clothing you really need for a recumbent is unpadded lycra shorts, to avoid inner-thigh friction–but you don’t need the $50-$75+ ones the bike shop sells; I get mine at a general sporting-goods store for $20 each. You will need a rear-view mirror, because it’s damn hard to turn and look behind you on a recumbent. Eyeglass- or helmet-mounted mirrors are more useful, I find.
    …Serious upright-bike riders often seem to be Spandex clothes-horses, but you will find an astonishing lack of formality with recumbent riders. Hawaiian-print shirts and sandals are acceptable attire.
  • The biggest disadvantage for a casual rider is probably that a recumbent is larger overall than a normal bike. On a normal bike you can just pop off the front wheel, and that makes it drastically smaller in overall size. Recumbents have very small front whees and so taking that off doesn’t get you much of an advantage, and the rear wheels are a bother to get off and back on (particularly if you’ve got disk brakes :rolleyes: ). I can just barely fit mine into the back of a Ford Explorer; if I had one of the longer-wheelbase ones it wouldn’t fit–I would need to get an external rack. And recumbents don’t fit in all bike racks, but then the bike shop should be able to get you one that will hold it.
    ~
18

Here’s a few things to add/disagree with, in no particular order. (it got long somehow. . .that’s what bikes do to people).

To skip my crazy ramblings, and go to the heart of the matter, go to (****).

– A “comfort” is a road bike, with a more comfortable “geometry”. All that means is that the frame is shaped so that where your butt is in relation to the pedals and handlebars is more comfortable than on a regular road bike. You’re more upright. What you lose is some aerodynamics, and maybe a more powerful position. This might be a good choice for you. More on that later. Here’s a link to a sweet one; it’s a bike you could ride for a LONG TIME. Compare the seat/handle bars to this, a similar model, but much more “aggressive”. The seat is higher than the handlebars. The frame is classic, not “compact”. Trek also makes road bikes they call, WSD for “women-specific design”.

– A softer saddle may or may not be more comfortable than a hard saddle. On my softer saddle, my “sit bones” sink in and I get a lot of pressure on the sensitive parts. With a harder saddle, I stay up on the bones, and for me, it’s more comfortable. The trade-off is that I get more road-buzz translated to my butt. Saddle preference is very personal.

– Higher end bikes don’t come with pedals. Some mid-range bikes come with clipless pedals. Your bike will most likely come with flat pedals. You might want to look at the traditional toe-clips, the straps that you slide your feet into. Make them tighter and tighter as you feel more comfortable, but think about a clipless system down the road.

– Don’t get a recumbent. Millions of people ride millions of comfortable miles on millions of road bikes every year. They’re a beautiful design that has been around forever. They’re not as comfortable out of the box, but it’s foolish to say that “upright bikes are uncomfortable to ride” is total horse-crap. If you end up joining a club, (which I HIGHLY recommend because it’s FUN and MOTIVATIONAL) you’ll want the road bike.

– Fit: well, you might have to pay a bike shop to do a “fit” for you. Some will do it for free, but maybe not for a $400 bike. A professional fit can cost $50-$100. There are a lot of internet resources for getting yourself close. And, don’t think like, “oh, if my fit is off a little, it’s going to be terrible”. All bikes are uncomfortable for a while (maybe not 'bents).

** Here’s where I tie a lot of ideas together: your bike is going to be a little uncomfortable to start with. The 'bent rider rider is going to say, “WHY SHOULD THAT BE?” Why that should be is because you’re doing a new exercise that you aren’t in shape for yet. You’re bent over, holding yourself up with your arms, holding your chin up for a long time, holding your torso up with your waist. You’re sitting on a small part of your butt. That all takes a little getting used to, but in the end it’s worth it.

The thing about “hybrid bikes”, “comfort bikes” and “recumbent bikes” is that they’re more comfortable when you get on them in the shop. However, they may not me much more comfortable in the long run, and they’re all less efficient (I wish that 'bent guy wasn’t here, because I hate sticking these disclaimers on every claim. . .but the 'bent bike might not be less efficient. It is for some things.)

Now, this also relates to a “test ride”. I know it seems totally logical that you’d test ride your bike. But honestly, it’s not going to do much for you (and that’s NOT just the opinion of this particular netkook). How your bike feels on a test-ride may not be how it feels in a week, or in MONTHS or after 50 miles. Furthermore, you’re really not going to pick up on the subtleties of the bikes on a little test ride, since you’re not an expert. They could put you on a tricycle with a sofa-cushion for a seat in the shop and that’s going to feel VERY comfortable. That doesn’t mean it’s the bike you’re looking for.

I would recommend a regular road bike to you. You can find a GOOD used bike for $100-$200. We have two at home that were $100 and $130 and are great rides. If you’re comfortable with ebay, there are tons of options, but I’d recommend talking to your local shops. Tell them you’re interested in trying out road bikes and you’d like something used to make sure its for you. They MIGHT even offer to buy it back full price if you buy something new from them down the road.

Besides, regular road bikes are cool. They look sweet. They can go as fast as you can. They’ve been making that design for 100+ years for a reason. Comfort bikes are close to them, and that’s probably as good a choice.
**** Now, the major point. . .even though I wrote a ton here, I’m going to recommend simplicity. Find the nearest bike shop to you, and buy a road bike (or comfort) in your price range that you have “standover height” on (your soft parts don’t touch the top bar).

Don’t worry about brands (they’re all the same in your range, and most ranges). Don’t worry about materials. Don’t worry about components (you’re not going to out-perform your components). Don’t worry about weight. Get a bike that fits, but don’t fret over a perfect fit – they sold bikes by “standover height”, forever. You can adjust saddle/handlebars to change the fit. Don’t worry about $25 that you could have saved somewhere else.

I’ve heard good things about these bikes. Giant, Trek, Specialized, Fuji, Jamis all make entry bikes in this range. A place like Performance Bike (if you have one of those around you) has a house brand that are lower priced than these other mainstream brands and are supposedly built in the same factories as some of the other major brands. But, don’t get married to a brand and then snub a shop you like because they don’t carry it. It’s more important to have a good relationship with the people nearby than have a particular brand.

19
      • Yea but you see–the stuff you say that one “has to get used to”, like “holding yourself up with your arms, holding your chin up for a long time, holding your torso up with your waist, sitting on a small part of your butt…”, none of that is much of any cause of pain on a recumbent, it pretty much doesn’t happen. Most of the physical agony that people suffer on upright bikes has nothing to do with the actual “turning the pedals” part of it, it’s the generally-uncomfortable riding position. You seem to be arguing that “being in pain is just part of riding a bike, so just deal with it”, and people with 'bents know that isn’t true. :slight_smile:

The only thing that might approach it is bikes like the Rans very-laid-back bikes linked, but they cost $$$$. Rans are nice but not cheap.
I dunno anywhere that sells similar bikes cheaper, that are consturcted well. I’ve seen some “beach-cruiser” types, but many of them were only single-speed or 3-speed hubs.
~

20

No, I’m not saying that “you need to deal with it”. I’m saying that it’s a form of exercise that is using muscles you’re not used to using and that if you want to ride a bike, deal with it until your get used to it.

'Bent riders want to say “well, why not get a bike where you don’t have to get used to it”.

It’s like telling someone “use the elliptical at the gym instead of the treadmill because you won’t be sore the next day.”

When you’re riding an upright bike, you have weight on your butt, your hands and your feet. And by changing your position slightly and naturally on the bike (going from the tops to the hoods, to the drops) you can change the distribution of that weight. A bike is not a torture device, only designed like that for aerodynamic efficiency. I don’t know anyone who rides a lot that thinks their bike is uncomfortable (and I know a lot of people that ride a lot).

'Bent guys love to say it though, and tend to prefer phrasing like “the physical agony that people suffer on upright bikes”. (yes, that should make you do this :rolleyes: )

When I start hearing that kind of talk, I usually start thinking “extremist cult”. The Hawaiian-print shirts and sandals are a part of it. I think they also issue you a beard when you buy a recumbent too, along with a 15 foot chain and a license to proselytize.

When you’re riding a recumbent, you have your weight supported by your butt, and your back. The advantage seems to be that it’s your whole butt supported, instead of just your sit bones. People are used to sitting like that. Of course it’s comfortable.

There’s a problem with hybrids, too. They are so upright that the whole weight of your torso is right down into the seat. They put these big padded seats on them because they have to. It kills your tailbone. Your position on a road bike, is stable, high, and comfy (with a little getting used to).