I’ve always thought Ikea furniture are all pre-drilled and you just need to assemble them together using a screwdriver.
However, today I bought an add-on to a table that requires drilling, and I’m freaking out.
I’m ashamed to say I’ve never drilled anything my whole life.
Any tips to share before I start the drilling (and risk damaging the table)?
ANY advice will help TREMENDOUSLY!
The tricky part is keeping the bit normal (“square”) to the surface, or angled if that is required. You can usually position yourself so you can eyeball it on one plane, but a second person to sight the orthogonal plane and guide you with hand signals is helpful. Handsignals due to the noise of the drill, but also language can tend to be ambiguous. Some drills are equipped with spirit level vials as an alignment aid…something to look for if you are shopping.
Once you start drilling, you need to keep the angle constant, even if it is not perfect. Trying to fix it is a good way to break the bit. For wood you need only modest pressure, let the drill do most of the work. For steel you have to press very hard to keep the bit cutting.
Go in about a half inch, and then withdraw the bit and knock the swarf off the bit if needed. Repeat every half inch or so. The helix of the bit is intended to eject the swarf from the hole as you drill, but doesn’t work as well as would be ideal. When the swarf builds up, it binds the bit and leads to heating and possibly breaking the bit.
ETA: Cheap bits are seldom a good deal. Good bits cost more, but work much better.
More:
If you are drilling all the way through wood, a normal bit will splinter where it exits. There are expensive specialty bits which minimize this, but even the best will usually have some chipping at the exit.
To completely avoid this, drill a smaller pilot hole first, the exit will still splinter some. Then drill full size, but not completely through. Move to the other side and finish. No exit, no splintering.
Pilot holes are usually a good idea for anything larger than 1/4" in metal and perhaps 1/2" in wood, but be aware that some types of drill bits will not function with a pilot hole…like spade type bits for example.
First, get a drill. A battery drill driver is a good choice for a beginner. Next, get a drill bit. These are sold individually or in sets. You might as well get an inexpensive set. I assume you’re only drilling wood so High Speed Steel (HSS) bits will be fine. Lubricate the bit. A drop of 3 in 1 oil would do fine. Lacking nothing else, drill into a bar of soap. Spin the drill in the open to remove excess lubricant. Take the material you are drilling and put it somewhere that you can comfortable hold the drill in alignment and provide slight downward force. If you have to drill horizonatally make sure you can be seated and stable. You can use a small block of wood to help align the drill bit at right angles, or even drill a hole through a small block of wood that you use as a drilling guide.
Really this is all very simple, just get a piece of scrap wood and practice making some holes.
A common mistake is using a bit that’s too large, so the screw (or dowel) has too much room around it, and the joint is unstable. Start with a smaller bit, then widen the opening with a larger one. As others have said, practice on a piece of scrap wood . . . not just aligning the bit, but also knowing which bits to use. When you think you’ve got a hole the right size, test it by actually screwing in the screw. It’s better to make mistakes in a piece of scrap wood, rather than your furniture.
How much drilling does the part require?
If you need to drill part way into the wood, set the bit next to the wood to gauge the depth, and put a piece of tape around the bit at the point where you have to stop. You can even leave it sticking out like a little flag.
If you’re predrilling for a screw, take the bit and screw, hold them next to each other and hold them up to the light. The sharp bits of the screw should be easily visible around the drill bit. That will make sure that the hole is small enough that the screw can bite into the wood. The directions may also suggest a drill bit size.
Use a scrap piece of wood to practice. Take your time, don’t press too hard, and drill straight in and out.
One you have the spot marked where you want to drill use a hammer and brad nail to make an indentation at that exact spot. Use a smaller bit to then drill your pilot hole by setting it in that indentation.
Are you sure you need to drill? The times when I thought that was the case with Ikea stuff turned out to be a mistake on my part; the hole was already there, I was just looking in the wrong place or at the wrong part.
Wow! Thanks for all that advice! It’s really useful.
I like how most of you suggested I should practise first. That never crossed my mind.
I thought Ikea stuff didn’t need drilling, until I read the instructions - said I needed a drill. Even marked out how deep I needed to drill, and size of the bit… so sigh…
Another way to minimize tear-out is to place the piece being drilled on top of a piece of scrap wood (clamp them together, if possible) prior to drilling the hole. Sounds like the instructions are calling for a particular depth, however, not a hole all the way through.
Which reminds me:
If you need to drill to a particular depth, either insert the bit far enough into the chuck that only the needed depth is extending out, or mark the bit by wrapping with tape.
Yeah, I’m supposed to drill it in a certain depth, then put in some screw holder (what do you call this?), so I can put in the screw and hold the table attachment…
Any idea where I could find scrap wood?
From discarded furniture in a dumpyard?
I’m confused. Go down to the basement. Next to stacked boards you should have a bucket of odds and ends pieces you’ve cut off on other projects.
Ok, you really are new at this. Yes, scrap furniture, trash, old pallets, or go the lumber yard/store and see what they’ve got.
Can’t tell what it is without seeing a picture, but it sounds like some sort of expansion anchor, similar to this.
Get a nail and hammer it in a small amount to create a small dent in the wood - centered on exactly where the hole needs to go. Otherwise, the drill might wander when you start pushing.
If you want to be fancy, measure and tape off around the drill so you can tell when you hit the right depth. Don’t push too hard - wood is pretty soft.
yeah, not surprising - I bought some cable trays to go under the business desk I got from Ikea. They need short wood screws put in, but the screws probably don’t really need pilot holes.
As an inexperienced driller, here’s my advice:
But seriously, good luck. I’d return it, there’s just no way. I don’t drill, don’t know anybody who drills or even owns a drill, and why risk messing it up? Is Ikea getting so fucking lazy that they can’t pre-drill their own damn holes now? ugh
Out of curiosity, why not wood bits? HSS bits have a blunt convex tip that risks wandering on a hard polished or veneer surface. Wood bits have lovely sharp tips that guarantee that the bit won’t slip and the hole will be spot-on. On larger diameter wood bits the tip is even threaded so that it self-taps into the material.
Two more pieces of advice: don’t push the drill into the wood; let the drill do the work. And don’t use the “hammer” setting.
HSS = High speed steel It is the material the bit is made from, not what it is made for cutting. Carbon steel is an alternative, but if you overheat it you destroy the temper and it won’t stay sharp…so you have to run it at low speed. High speed steel stays hard even when glowing, so you can run it much faster.
It sounds like the bits you are talking about are spur point or brad point bits, and yes they do work nice in wood. They could be made of carbon tool steel or HSS.
Carbon steel bits are pretty rare these days, except for shop-made tooling. (It can be shaped while anealed, then hardened for use) HSS is the default. Titanium Nitride coating is often added at a small premium…mostly cosmetic IME. Carbide steel bits are very expensive and overkill IMO for wood working and even most metal working if it is not high volume production. Carbide works well for saw blades and router bits where extreme cutting speeds are the norm.
Thanks, I didn’t know that. I mistakenly thought that HSS bits were for drilling steel just like masonry bits are for masonry and wood bits for wood.