Holy Mother Fucking Shit, or... Looks like I'm moving to Memphis, TN.

I’ve been in Memphis since 2005, when I accepted a position at the University of Memphis (formerly known, and still known by some locals, as “Memphis State”).

Memphis gets a bad rap for its crime rate, but in my experience most of it is limited to things like property crime (EVERYONE has a story about their car getting broken into and the like). There are occasional stories of violent crime, particularly of an isolated individual getting held up at gunpoint–this happens with some frequency around the university area–but if you exercise common sense (e.g., avoid unlighted and depopulated areas at night if you’re walking alone), you’ll probably be OK.

The one annoying thing that you can’t avoid in Memphis is panhandlers. They’re particularly relentless downtown, although you’ll encounter them hanging outside gas stations or drugstores in most neighborhoods, always ready with a story about how they need a couple of bucks since their car just ran out of gas or they need to catch a bus or something else. Typical for most big towns, of course, and something you’re probably familiar with already, but it can be a surprise for someone coming from a smaller town in the South (and since Memphis is only a big town in relationship to its much smaller neighbors, the ratio of panhandler : city size seems a bit disproportionate here). Anyway, it’s a nuisance you learn to live with and/or avoid, if you haven’t already.

For nightlife, I rarely venture downtown (which is mainly populated by tourists and the aforementioned panhandlers), but there are a few decent bars there (the Flying Saucer is particularly good for draft beer, while Earnestine & Hazel’s farther down on Main Street probably has the best atmosphere).

There’s a blighted urban wasteland between downtown and Midtown, a legacy of the I-240 construction.

And then there’s Midtown, which (I agree with posters above) is the preferred hang-out for locals. The Cooper-Young and Overton Square areas are particularly popular, and the residential neighborhoods are quite nice–a lot of quaint 1920s bungalows along tree-lined avenues, with the notable exception of Union Avenue (the only really ugly spot in Midtown, primarily lined by strip malls and fast-food joints). Midtown is personally my favorite part of the city, and it definitely features the highest concentration of liberals (and a few hipsters here and there, but not too many).

East Memphis isn’t as cozy or intimate as Midtown, but it features several good restaurants and a lot of shopping complexes. Past East Memphis, you’re into Germantown and other suburbs, with which I’m not as familiar (although from what I have seen, the suburbs are much whiter, blander, and more conservative than Memphis proper–BUT Germantown does feature the Commissary, one of the best places for BBQ in this area).

I technically live in East Memphis, just a few blocks away from the University of Memphis–although to be honest, this is kind of a liminal area, too far east to be Midtown (particularly if you consider East Parkway as the easternmost perimeter of Midtown) but too far west of the big shopping centers of East Memphis.

I like Memphis in general. It’s got its issues–the city government is generally incompetent, and a lot of visions for positive redevelopment vanish as pipe dreams–but it’s got a lot of character. Quirky, dysfunctional character, but attractive nonetheless. This reflects a lot of the population, which has its share of quirky characters. They’re good people, and I like living amongst them (and like to think I’m transforming into one of their kind).

So, welcome! And if anyone really does hold a Mem-Dope fest, I’d love to attend–never been to such a gathering before.

Ha! Wonder if we’ve met? About 90% of my time is spent on campus

Pleh. You’re obligated to drive up whenever we deign to have a Dopefest.

Seriously, Tonya, we need more Dopers in the area that won’t just up and leave us for jobs.

Ah, as someone that worked in the South for 3 months, they’re a lot more sensitive to your filthy Northern mouth.

Götterfunken’s post reflects my feelings exactly.

Drive? Pfff… I only fly first class. You book the flight, I’ll be in the seat.

What’s weird is I’m not really moving because the local economy is so abysmal (99% of my work is from out-of-state, and I’ve been doing what I do from my house since '07).

I was seriously torn, as I could just as easily move to LA or SF, but have resisted because I love Michigan and uprooting your family, let alone moving and leaving your life-long friends and parents/siblings behind is a sonuvabitch.

Oh-oh. I’m fucked. Swearing is one of the only things I really do well. sigh

One thing that took me by surprise when passing through Memphis was the aggressive motorcycle clubs on I-240 on weekends in nice weather. I’m not talking about 1%ers on chopped harleys wearing HA colors or Hell’s Orthodontists on fully kitted out harleys. I’m talking about the swarms of kids in their 20’s on crotch rockets changing lanes left and right, riding on the dashed line between lanes, and doing a wheelie for a mile or more 15 mph above the speed limit. So try not to panic when that happens. They’re going way over the speed limit so if you just continue to do what you were doing, eventually, they’ll all pass you.

WELCOME!!! It’s not as bad as people make it out to be. I like it here

@ Ranger Jeff: Interesting you say that, as I was surprised to see my friend and his wife had a crotch rocket and a Harley respectively.

Right now it is rainy, stormy, and HUMID! Mid to high 80s. Pretty typical spring. Summers are hot and humid, and sometimes dry. Can get up to 110 in the summers. I hates it. Winters are mild compared to Detroit. You will miss the snow. Also humid. It’s pretty much humid year round, and we get at least one good flood every year in the late Spring, early Summer.

Thanks! I already feel welcome and won’t be moving for a few months. I realize most cities are exaggerated when it comes to their own notorious legends, especially since I hail from one of the most egregious.

Really, thanks y’all!

Holy shitsticks, I just said “y’all.” What’s happening to me?!

I live in Bartlett (really Shelby County unincorprated) and we like it. Cordova area (by the Wolfchase Mall) was getting to expensive for us (rent for a 2 bedroom 1200 sq ft home with garage $1200+/mo) and now we have a 1200 sq ft home in Bartlett area with no garage but three bedrooms and two full bath for $875/mo

Good info, thanks. Encouraging too, compared to what I pay on my mortgage.

As for your earlier post: Miss snow?! I didn’t know that was possible.

Be warned though, I am one of the most naive people ever and when I moved to Memphis cough 12 cough years ago I was SHOCKED, shocked I tells ya, at the racial divide that really does exist here. I had to convince most of my friends who are black that I really am not racist, so REALLY I AM NOT! They just assume you hate them or have preconceived notions about them just because you aren’t black. Separation of the races is so institutionalized here, if you don’t think racially you are judged a freak. My youngins attended a preschool for 3 years where they were the only white kids, and I had no problem with that, but one of my white friends (who is no longer a friend) asked me if I felt safe leaving my kids there. I was shocked. Since we moved further into the county and had to fund a new daycare, I looked specifically for one that was diverse and wasn’t racially stagnant.

Also, the school system is in a bit of an upheaval sincethis will be the first year that county and city schools have merged into one school system, so expect some confusion and negativity about the whole thing. A My two little ones will be attending Bartlett Elementary which has been a city school for a few years now, so I am not worried. I have heard good things about that particular school.

I moved from Alaska to TN when I was 7 and I missed the snow terribly. It rarely snows here, it does ice storm though, and the world grinds to a halt. You will be amused at how bad we are at dealing with winter weather here. Also, Memphis truly has some of the worst drivers in the stateif not th country. So be wary of Memphis drivers, they are guaranteed to drive you insane.

Ugh, Midtown is Hispster Haven, Blech:p I like to visit but I would not like to live there, plus cost of living is outrageous.

I was a bit worried about the racial situation, and sounds like the opposite of what I’m used to. Still, racism is everywhere, and I make it a point to make anyone who remarks about anything racist feel totally stoopid and awkward. Hopefully I can avoid any of that shitness.

Very interesting about the whole school situation. I’ll pass this onto my wife, most of this sort of civil/state stuff goes over my head, anyhow.

And yehhhh… I just turned 40, so it’ll be too soon if I ever see snow again. Though, I’m sure my kids will miss it.

Yeah, if you want your home flooded twice a year, plus it’s not so safe. I wouldn’t live in W Memphis if I got paid to live there.

Have your wife research it via the link I gave, it’s a comprehensive coverage about the merger. And especially ask your friend and anyone else with kids about where they would send their children. Private school is not an option for us because of the cost, but if it is for you research your options. I don’t like religious private school, but I think there are other options available in our area that are more secular.

Welcome to Tennessee.
Welcome to corruption.
Crooked elections, open nepotism, closed cliques of old families that totally control local elections & local government, like a feudal fief.

Forbes rated Tennessee as the most corrupt state of the Union, & they were right.

BTW-- you are now in a geologically unstable area–Happy Earthquakes.

I don’t see it as outrageous at all. What are you basing that on?

We are even then. I would rather live in a van by the river than Bartlett. And Cordova is hell on earth.