The title says it all. I looked into this about a year ago, and sought help from fellow dopers, but in a moment of poor judgement, I used a double entendre in the tile.
Here’s the bottom line: my house is about 40 years old and has old wooden sash windows. I’d like to replace them. I can pay outright, but Home Depot has a no interest deal going which I might take advantage of.
What do I need to know? Vinyl? Aluminum? Double Hung? Single Hung?
I am your fungus. Mold me.
E3
40 year old house? Go vinyl single-hung high-e. HD sells 'em for about $100 for a 36x36 window.
Single hung (bottom window slides up) are good all purpose design. Double-hung is a nifty design for letting physics cool your room: You open the top window (pull it down) and the hot air near the ceiling escapes. That creates a bit of a vacuum so when you open the bottom window (slide it up) cooler air from outside is pulled in. If you don’t plan on making use of this technique, don’t waste the money on double hung.
The trickiest part is getting the measurements right. From the outside of the building, measure the size of the hole you’ll have once the old window is removed. Draw a picture so you know how many inches it is top to bottom & side to side (otherwise you could end up ordering the windows with the dimensions switched :smack: )
Once you have the window sizes, you’ll want to decide how you’ll install them. If the exterior siding immediately around the window is easily removed, order your windows with “fins.” Installation will be a cinch: you place the window in the hole from the outside of the house, level it (get some cedar shims to support the window from the sides & bottom), and the fins should lay nicely against the house sheathing. 4-6 nails through the fins and the window is secure. In the best of worlds the window will also fit flush with the existing interior window trim. In mine it rarely does. So you might get to redo that as well. Once you get the trim done, run a thin bead of EXPENSIVE, soft-drying, paintable caulk where the window meets the trim.
If for some reason you can’t install using fins, order the window without fins (or cut 'em off with a utility knife). You’ll install them from the inside. Drill a couple 3/8 inch holes on both the left & right edges , you’re going to drive screws parallel to the window right through the frame and into the window hole. Use copious shims on all edges, even the top, to get the window level and secure. Use pilot holes. Pray. This is the way I learned to install windows. The first 3 or 4 were horrible, but I got pretty good at it after that. Don’t do it this way unless you have to. If you have masonry exterior, you’ll be getting good at this as well. Start at the back of the house 
Before you reinstall the siding around the window, you need to stuff cheeze in the cracks. Get a can of spray foam. The stuff in the blue can is best because it cleans up nice and dries soft & pliable, “Great Stuff” is very messy to work with and will ruin anything it touches, dries hard won’t come off your hands for 3 or 4 days. Spray this stuff all around the edge of the window. The idea is to keep drafts from creeping through the siding, around the window and through your interior trim. It’s fun to do. Use lots. Reinstall your exterior siding. Admire your new look.
We did this a couple years ago and went with Feldco (Chicago area). They installed 5 windows…the kind that tip in for easy cleaning…for around $1500 if I remember correctly. Vinyl and they have some kind of gas inside that keeps you warmer or cooler and maybe protects from uv rays…I forget. And lifetime replacement on screens! Our house is very old and non-standard size, so I think we got a bargain.
Lots of different companies make vinyl windows, and the quality is in the fabrication. I usually sell Certainteed Viwinco, but they’re in Morgantown, PA-so you’d need to find out who the Certainteed fabricator is for your area. Frames can be mechanically assembled or fusion welded-welded is better. There are many little things to look for: vent latches that allow the lower sash to be open only an inch or so, double latches on wider sashes, pre-insulated jambs. Home Despot windows scare me for one reason-I don’t know who is making the product, and ten years down the road, when a customer accidentally breaks a latch, or a balance goes bad, I want a manufacturer who will send me the repair parts, toot sweet. You’ll get that level of support from Pella, Andersen, and Certainteed-but not from Fast Eddie’s Window Shop & Massage Parlor. 
Disclaimer: I’m a Project Manager for Home Depot’s At Home Services ( The people who are doing the no-no deal you are talking about)
I’d recommed double hung windows. The single hung are a lot cheaper and not as long lasting imho. The American Craftsman used to be sold by our Installed Services group but we dropped them like a hot potato, take that for what it’s worth.
The current HD windows are made by Simonton, a well respected mfr. who has been in business for a long time. They make windows for several different retailers such as Reynolds. Simo windows are fusion welded, have vent latches ( this is actually code in most places now), low E coating, closed cell jambs for increased insulation.
Re: measuring, that’s what I do. When the sales consultant sells your job, he calls my counterpart in your territory and they measure the openings so you get the right window. As for the guarantee, all I can say is I have NEVER charged a customer for a broken part, warranty or no. Your kid threw a ball threw a window? new sash. Your dog scratches a hole in your patio door screen? I have gone to one customers’ house 4 times to rescreen, no charge of course. I’m not saying that no one gets dinged for something that is obvioulsy their faulty but I haven’t seen it yet.
Oh and in reply to Inigo, you are referring to full replacement windows.
Vinyl replacement windows leave the existing jambs in place and replace only the exterior stops and the interiorstops if needed. With a vinyl window you should NEVER use an expanding foam. they will warp the frame and make the windows hard to open. I wouldn’t even use Hilti’s stuff which is the best for adjusting the level of expansion.
MikeG - I’ve been thinking about just buying the add-on storm windows. My house is over 150 years old and is wooden, not vinyl-sided. It needs insulation (none in the walls or attic - I was thinking blow-in), more energy-efficient windows and central heat and air. Obviously there’s a lot of expense and a limited budget, so I was thinkng of skimping on the windows. The house has all the original windows, odd-sized (7’ tall) with wavy glass. I like them - they fit the rest of the house, but they are definately drafty. I live in Tennessee, if that’s a factor. Is there any really good reason I should put my money into the windows and away from one of the other projects?
StG
Since we have some window experts here, I’d like to piggy-back on this thread with my question. I’ll need to replace 7 windows. What I’ve got now are crappy double-hung with storm windows, installed when the house was built 30 years ago. I want to replace them with tilt-in-to-clean, preferably double hung. Three of the windows are about 5’ tall, three are about 3’ tall, and one is a small bathroom window. Plus I’ll need to replace a 6’ sliding door.
What can I expect to pay for decent quality replacements, installed. I’m not looking for a to-the-penny quote - I just have no idea if I’m looking at $2K or $20K or something in between. I’m reluctant to get a free estimate because I’m not ready to buy this year. I don’t want to finance it - I want to save and do it for cash. So, how much cash should I plan to have?
I don’t have a dog in this fight…but I’ve done all of about 30 full replacements & foamed every one and never had this problem. Yes, the first 3-5 were installed poorly and I’m not proud of my workmanship on those, but the house I’m in now I did 15 windows, all with foam, and none warped. Are we thinking of different things or am I just naturally adept at using just the right amount of foam? 
The key is whether the foam you’re using is low-ex or high-ex. High-ex can warp jambs and cause problems, but the DAP stuff in the blue cans is low-ex and it works very nicely.
Regarding your query FairyChatMom, I did a dozen windows last month-all vinyl, welded frames, tilt-clean, double hung with full screens, 7/8" clear IGU, and custom aluminum capping of all exterior woodwork, the total was $3100. The same customer has ordered a 6’ Peachtree sliding patio door to replace the existing, and between installation and freshening up trim as needed, I’m charging him a little over $2K.
How about double-glazed windows? I haven’t actually seen them yet, but the inspector’s report on my house cites three panes that have some condensation in them.
Naturally, they recommend replacement, but unless I’m well and truly annoyed at seeing moisture in them (I don’t even know if it’s droplets or fog or an inch of water at the bottom) is there any harm in doing nothing? It’s exceedingly rare for this area to get cold enough for anything to freeze.
The presence of moisture between the panes of an IGU (insulated glass unit) indicates that the seal has failed, and the window has lost it’s insulative value. In addition to the appearance of always looking dirty, that’s what causes an inspector to note the item.
OK, I’m about to head out to do a round of inspections but I’ll answer a few questions.
Double glazed panes, aka thermopanes, aka IGU, aka glass pacs are the only way to go. They are FAR more reliable than the ones sold even ten years ago. Most places have a lifetime warranty on their glass so if you get moisture ( or more likely the Low E coating will oxidize making it look like there are rust spots on the inside of the glass) you get a new sash for free. That’s the way it works here at HD.
Re: expanding foam. I’m aware some people have had success using the low exp. stuff like DAP or Hiliti which I mentioned. However I oversee the installation of literally hundreds of windows a month. We have found with experience that using fiberglass insulation will NEVER warp a frame, it’s just as easy to install, and it is far easier to clean up after. We warranty our installs for life basically so we try to eliminate any possible call backs.
Can you install a window well with the foam? Sure. What I find is installers who insist on it are many times using it as a crutch. They don’t measure properly and use it to make up differences, use it instead of shims, in extreme cases I’ve seen jobs where the installers used the foam instead of mechanical fasteners (i.e. screws) , instead just holding the window in place with stops and foam!
As for pricing HD windows in the Chicago market, for an average 6500 series double hung ( the best quality and the only one I’d put in my own house), figure an average of $550 per window. I just confirmed with my sales guy a 6’ patio door will cost $2250 installed. Picture windows and decorative grids will all add to the cost naturally. These are installed prices with all rotted wood replacement and exterior pvc clad aluminium trim coil wrapping included. If yo uwant to send me a list of the sizes of your windows measured from inside jamb to jamb, I can get you a better estimate.
Cretins! That’s what Liquid Nails is for !
Small world. I do install for the Oklahoma stores (among other things). We probably know some of the same people.
Or not that small …The Home Depot Will Assimliate you. Resistance is Futile. Pray to whatever God you choose you look good in Orange.
Oh and Inigo, I once went ot a job and found the guys using Liquid Nails to apply all the fascia to a garage job because " Wood is hard, cannot nail into" :eek:
And that’s why I inspect every single job I measure.
Hey NoClueBoy, are you having any trouble getting additional labor bills approved? Email me, I’ve got some questions for you that are probably best said in a private forum.
[QUOTE=MikeG]
Disclaimer: I’m a Project Manager for Home Depot’s At Home Services ( The people who are doing the no-no deal you are talking about)
I’d recommed double hung windows. The single hung are a lot cheaper and not as long lasting imho. The American Craftsman used to be sold by our Installed Services group but we dropped them like a hot potato, take that for what it’s worth.
The current HD windows are made by Simonton, a well respected mfr. who has been in business for a long time. They make windows for several different retailers such as Reynolds. Simo windows are fusion welded, have vent latches ( this is actually code in most places now), low E coating, closed cell jambs for increased insulation.
My son is a supervisor at a Simonton window factory. His line makes the replacement windows (as opposed to new construction). These are good windows!
So, it’s looking like I’ll probably be able to do it all for around $5K - so now I’ve got a target. Thanks!
FCM, remember these are Chicago prices. If I had to guess, I’d imagine the labor costs are slightly lower in your area.
Yeah. Basically, if it isn’t on the original work order, we never see any monies.* And yet, not everything can be foreseen from the measuring and pre-inspection. From rotted framing to mortar work, we finish what the job needs. Metal out of siding or casements seems to be the worst. Metal out of brick and wood/wood (usually with wraps) are my faves. Even with that, tho, we sometimes have an issue with getting paid for the wraps! At least wrapping is a high $ per hr ratio, so when that extra finally shows, it makes a noticable difference.
I really love the new snap trim we’re getting now. Makes trimming out a window a breeze! When I was with PaceSetter, having to hand trim all the metal used to take about as long as removal and install together.
I’ve been using an elastomeric caulk on the outside (Solar Seal™), and poly on the insides, since all that has been left up to us to suppy for ourselves.
*we take all the trash with us, which means I get to make some of the money back by recyling the aluminum.
(e-mail sent)