I’m pretty sure my truck’s fuel system is dirty and/or clogged, it is reaching the point where if I don’t press on the gas when I first start it up the engine will die (but after I get it started it will idle). What all can I do to clean it?
I bought some of that STP brand fuel system complete fuel system cleaner but that didn’t fix the problem, it only helped a bit. Is there anything else I can do to clean it out or do I need to take it to a mechanic to have them clean it out?
I’m going to replace the fuel filter this week so I already know that is probably the best thing I can do for it. But beyond the fuel filter and fuel system additives is there anything else I can do?
The most effective “in the tank” fuel system cleaner is Techron. You can try adding a bottle of that.
Your symptom doesn’t necessarily indicate dirt or clogging in the fuel path through the injectors. Some other possibilities are carbon build-up in the throttle body and a weak or restricted idle air controller. I would say if the Techron doesn’t take care of it, the next step should be testing and evaluation to see just what is causing the problem. In other words, if you request a fuel system cleaning and that doesn’t solve the problem, that’s a pretty expensive way to eliminate one possibility.
Year, make, model, engine type. Please.
I sell parts and do need this information to aid my customers.
Another possibility is a vacuum leak. This could be as simple as a faulty hose or as involved as a faulty intake manifold gasket.
If you’d rather do something than have it tested, cleaning the throttle body is worth trying and doesn’t cost much in materials. If you’re not familiar with doing this, get some good instructions so you don’t inadvertently cause other problems.
Replacing the idle air controller is usually pretty easy, but the part may be dear. Again, replacing it only to find out that wasn’t it is a pretty expensive way to eliminate one possibility.
So my suggestion is, try the Techron. Inspect carefully for visible vacuum leaks. If you want to get that deep into it, inspect the throttle body for carbon build-up and clean if needed. After that, I think having it tested is the best next step.
Based on my travels across auto message boards, there are two worthwhile fuel system cleaners and two dozen others.
Chevron Techron is one. I’ve heard reccomendations to get the concentrated version… apparently there are two strengths, and the higher one is more cost-effective.
The other is Fuel Power 60 by the Lube Control company [1]. The positive reviews of it I’ve seen are confined to a single message board [2], but either said board is a massive conspiracy or it does seem to work. At least one on-board professional with verifiable credentials has vouched for it.
Everything else appears to be… well, mostly kerosene. I may be missing something, and I’m sure if you’re looking at diesel-only solutions there are some decent options, I’d probably look at Redline’s offerrings in this field.
[1] http://www.lubecontrol.com/fuel.htm
[2] http://theoildrop.server101.com/
1999 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder 2.5 Liter.
I think it may be the fuel pump. It could be anything really. I’ll have to take it in.
I use Techron, based on recommendations by professionals. But how do we really know Techron is the best? What rigorous testing has been done by independent firms? I ask because there are tons of snake oil salesmen out there, not the least of which sell the Teflon-based products.
Well would a carmakers service bulletin be good enough for you? Back in the late 80’s there was severe problems with the gasoline leaving carbon deposits on intake valves. In some case the deposits go so bad the cars were almost impossible to start cold.
Anyway the repair was to mechanically clean the valve stems and per the TSB issued by Volvo (other car makers also issued similar instructions I am told) add a bottle of Techron at each service. We never had a repeat repair once we put the cars on a Techrom diet.
To the best of my knowledge this is the only time a car maker has recommended using a fuel additive that they did not market themselves.
BTW another little factoid that also helps recommend Chevron products. A carmaker can use any pump gas for emission certification tests. All three American carmakers use Chevron. The kicker is they have to truck it in since Chevron is not sold in Michigan.
You know what this reminds me of? When the exact same thing happened a year ago. I forgot about that, but the symptoms were the same (the weather was cold, the car started then died unless I pressed on the accelerator).
http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=280747&highlight=truck
The same thing happened, and it was the air intake last time. Maybe it is the air intake this time too. I’ll have to take it in today to see.
Assuming it is the air intake is there anything I can do to clean it?
Come to think of it, I know of a Mercedes dealer that performed a similar procedure for a friend’s rough-running 1980-ish MBZ 300D. According to what I heard, they skipped the mechanical cleaning in favor of basically running the engine on straight Techron… by-passed the tank to do it.
Yup diesels love Techron
Years ago (approx. 1990) I saw some tech sheets with testing results on Techron done by a reputable independent firm. I don’t have the sheets, nor remember the name of the testing company, but I remember being impressed by the results. Sorry I can’t provide a cite.
To add to what Rick said, some car manufacturers sell Techron as an official house-branded additive, e.g. “BMW Fuel System Cleaner” or some such (and with the name Techron also on the bottle, as I recall). Given how conservative auto makers are about additives, this constitutes a ringing endorsement, and you can be sure they did their own testing and evaluation before doing that.
I can only assume that “air intake” means throttle body. Generally they can be cleaned with a good solvent and a toothbrush. Carb cleaner is effective but harsh (might damage rubber or plastic parts). Brake parts cleaner is usually adequate and less harsh. A product called “Sea Foam” is usually adequate and not harsh. There are probably products specifically labeled “Throttle Body Cleaner” available at auto parts stores.
The procedure is to apply some solvent to the carbon deposits in the throttle body and on the throttle plates and then scrub with the toothbrush. Then apply more solvent and scrub some more. Repeat multiple times until all the carbon deposits have been removed. The throttle plate(s) need to be held open (against the closing spring) for feasible access.
Care needs to be taken to not allow an appreciable amount of solvent to pool in the intake manifold. If too much liquid is sucked into a cylinder upon start-up, it could cause hydrostatic lock and possibly bend a rod. Fixing that would be really, really expensive. The surest way to avoid this is to remove the throttle body from the engine and clean it on the bench. A new throttle body gasket (cheap) might be required.
huh? :dubious:
It’s how fuel injectors are cleaned. The cleaning solvent works well enough as a fuel that the engine can idle on it alone (no gasoline). The car’s fuel pump is diabled and the fuel lines to the engine disconnected. The solvent is piped to a fuel line fitting with a separate pump in the servicing equipment (or in some cases, the solvent is in a pressurized container to achieve this). So the engine runs on just the solvent, while the car’s fuel delivery system is temporarily out of the picture.