I’ve had excellent results every time I used it. Wipe up any overspill instantly, then again a few minutes later when the expansion has started, and make sure to clamp the hell out of it. Clean, very strong bond. I’m sure I’ve got stuff that’s held for over a year as well - how long did it last in your experience?
It’s a polyurethane glue. These are known to be messy to work with, but they have good holding power and water resistance. From the sound of your OP you are using it wrong. Glued pieces only need enough to cover the joined surfaces, and then need to be well clamped until cured. The glue joint will be stronger than most materials it joins at that point. It is not good for filling gaps and while it adheres well to wood it may not do as well with other materials, at least not without special preparation.
I have used it to laminate home made archery bows just to see if it will work. This requires very strong bonds because of the stresses involved. As long as I moisten the surfaces of the wood ahead of time I have had excellent results.
The biggest problem I’ve had with it is that it has terrible shelf life. Once you open the bottle, the clock starts ticking and the chances are good that the next time you want to use it, it will have hardened into a polyurethane rock in the bottle.
Are people not wetting the surfaces? It’s right on the instructions that you have to do so. You’d think the smartest, hippest, people on the internet would RTFM.
I’ve made large custom picture frames (several different wood moldings glued together lengthwise as well as the corner joints) with the stuff ten years ago that are still holding together without any assistance from mechanical fasteners like nails or screws, so I suspect it’s a whole lot of user error both in selection and execution.
As **friedo **said, it’s not a general purpose household craft glue. When used appropriately and correctly, it’s an excellent adhesive.
If you’re not wetting the surfaces, wiping it as a cures and clamping the hell out of it you don’t have any business using gorilla glue for your application. It’s strong but requires fairly specific conditions for application.
I read that is taste good to dogs and some poor dog ate some and had to go to an ER vet right away or he would had dies . The dog needed surgery , the glue has harden inside him was the shape of his inside . After I read about this I never brought any Gorilla Glue .
Well, it if can glue a gorilla, it should be able to glue a dog. Seriously though, there are plenty of things in a worksop that are harmful to pets. Glue just happens to be one of them. In my shop, the dogs are not allowed in, and paints and glues are stored well out of reach if one of the dogs did sneak in.
You forgot about the few total dipsticks. Some of whom even use Gorilla Glue for car repairs :eek:. Perhaps the OP is a member of that special minority of Dopers.
I’ve used it for glue laminations and about half of the other glue jobs on my weird little boat. I’ve had all sorts of ups and downs with this vessel, but the qualities of polyurethane glue were not part of any of the problems - in fact near the bottom of the above linked page, there’s a bit about one of the components that broke under improper load - thing is, it was the timber that broke, not the glue joint.
Mist or damp-wipe the surfaces, apply the thinnest of layers and clamp up good and tight, and it’s an amazing product. Deviate from those methods, and it doesn’t work.