How to deal with blossom-end rot on tomatoes

My tomato plants are now huge and have produced fruits - that’s the good news. The bad news is that many of these fruits are afflicted with blossom-end rot. In other words, the bottom part of the small green tomato has turned brown and leathery and is rotten.

Some research has shown me that the probable causes of blossom-end rot are:

Overwatering
Underwatering
Calcium Deficiency

When I went to the hardware store for advice, I was told by the gardening guy there that the problem was probably that I had watered the plants too much. He said that they should be watered only once every five to seven days.

After even one day without water, the plants wilt and look bad, so I have been watering them around every other day. I don’t see how they could survive with only being watered once a week. It has been extremely hot and sunny here lately. Temps in the 80s and 90s.

Should I do what the guy says?

My wife says it’s calcium deficiency, and that you can add calcium. She uses egg shells, but there are also tomato fertilizers that contain calcium.

She also said that if your soil is such that the tomatoes are wilting one day after watering, you need to water often. She says the watering schedule tomatoes don’t like is drying out, then being flooded (but if your soil has enough calcium, they can tolerate it more). Keep the ground from drying out.

Also, they don’t like wet foliage, so water at the ground.

Yeah, inconsistent watering will give your tomatoes blossom end-rot. Generally speaking, water them only when they look wilty first thing in the morning–looking wilty in the hot afternoon can be regarded as normal.

And for next year’s tomatoes, it’ll help quite a bit if you turn liberal amounts of gypsum into the tomato area of your garden.

The majority of the tomatoes are still young, small and unaffected by the rot so there is still time to prevent this, it seems. What about spreading a layer of mulch on top of the soil? (After spreading the eggshells.) Where do you get eggshells anyway?

From eggs. :smiley:

We had blossom-end rot on our this year, and after some research I read that it might be a calcium deficiency. So I made my daughter an omelette the next morning and saved the shells. Rinsed them, dried them, and then stuck them in a ziploc back and crushed 'em. Spread the shells over the top of the soil, and it seems to have done the trick.

The first thing to realise is that blossom end rot is caused by calcium deficiency. That’s it.

The plant needs to extract calcium from the soil, and that calcium needs to be dissolved in water. When the soil is too dry the plant can not extract enough calcium from the soil, and because all the water it can get is being directed to the leaves, all the calcium is also being directed to the leaves at the expense of the developing fruit. When the soil is too wet the roots literally suffocate and stop taking up calcium. So although overwatering and underwatering can lead to blossom end rot, it’s ultimately caused by calcium deficiency.

You will always get minor wilting at noon under those temps, but it should be disappearing by around 4 in the afternoon. While any wilting is to be avoided where possible, midday wilting simply isn’t a problem, so long as the plants recover once the temperature falls. If your plants are not recovering and are going into permanent wilt within 24 hours then your soil simply is not holding enough water. I have grown tomatoes when the air temperature was well over 35oC, and sustained wilting should not be occurring inside 48 hours.

You can increase the water-holding capacity of our soils simply by adding some gel crystals. These are cheap and they are available at any hardware store. Dig a few holes around your plants and drop in the crystals and the problem should be cured.

The over-watering problem is even more easily cured: don’t give so much water at once. Contrary to the advice you have received, the frequency of watering has little effect at all on tomato performance. It’s a myth. To the extent that is has any effect at all, the more frequently you water, the better the plants perform.

For optimum growth, a plant needs t meet evaporative demand. In simple terms, it needs to replace the water that it loses. However the water will only store a limited amount of water within the root volume before it becomes waterlogged. If that water volume is less than evaporative demand, the plant will wilt. It’s that simple. If a plant needs 2 litres of water a day, and the root volume will only hold 1 litre before becoming waterlogged, you only have two options: you can either over water and let the soil become waterlogged several hours a day, or you can water twice a day, giving a litre of water each time.

So rather than watering every two days, water twice a day if you need to, but give smaller volumes. There is no good reason not to irrigate at night, indeed most commercial operations do irrigate at night because that is when the plant is best able to distribute nutrients to the fruit. Without the laves demanding all the water, the plant can shunt sap and nutrients to the fruit. So if your plants are looking wilty when you get home from work, give them a light watering. You can afford to give a heavier watering in the mornings because the soil will dry faster so there is less chance of prolonged waterlogging, but try to avoid it all the same.

In the short term, get some foliar calcium fertiliser. It’s not all that common, but the better nursery supply shops should sell it. If you can’t get any, apply a complete foliar fertiliser that contains calcium. Because your root system is already likely damaged through waterlogging, you need to get calcium into the plant through the leaves to try to salvage the developing fruit.

Eggshells are a really lousy way to sovle the problem. They do contain calcium, but it is not readily available. So if your soil is actually calcium deficient (and it almost certainly is not) it won’'t alleviate the problem for at least a month and it won’t rectify it fully for 6 months or more. In contrast inorganic calcium salts will alleviate the problem within hours and rectify it fully within a week. However if your root system is damaged then rectifying soil calcium deficiency won’t alleviate the symptoms. But soil calcium deficiency is unlikely anyway.

A layer of mulch on the soil won’t hurt, but tomatoes are pretty water hungry, so the amount of loss form the soil surface will be minor. If you want to increase water retention then ad some gel crystals. It will cost about 3 cents a a plant.

Would it work to dissolvd a calcium antacid pill and watering with it? I live in a region known for lack of calcium in the soil.

It would, but it would be about 10, 000 times more expensive than using gypsum or lime and about 1, 000 times more expensive than using chalk dust.