I’m having a photograph framed as a gift and think I want to initial and date it, but the photo itself is quite dark all the way around the edges. There are two layers of mat, with a border of about a half an inch between the inner and outer one, and this border on the inner one is light in color, so I thought I could do it there.
Is this done?
What writing implement do I use? If I use pen, will the mat spread it out like blotter paper? Pencil would last if it’s under the glass; is pencil OK to sign with or is this considered tacky?
You can get silver or gold markers. (I assure you the result is not as tacky as it sounds).
For that matter, there are markers (I couldn’t tell you what the type is called) that are thick enough to write on a dark/ black background - just go to a well stocked stationery shop, I am sure you will find something suitable.
Many photographers sign on the mat, as photos are slick and often dark and therefore hard to sign. If there’s enough space, I would look at signing the inner layer of the two-layer mat – and there’s definitely nothing wrong with pencil for this type of thing. I sell limited-edition prints, and those are all hand-numbered and hand-signed in pencil. It’s very common in the world of fine art prints. I sign mine right on the print because a) I have plenty of white space to do, and b) the paper is easy to write on.
Google “photograph signed mat” and you’ll see plenty of photographers that do it that way. Just make sure you leave enough room on the light mat so that you’re not cramped for space.
With all due respect to those above, using a Sharpie of any color greatly diminishes the work of art. Either on the paper surface itself or nearby on a matte, using a thick line of ink really distracts. The ink in Sharpies also has solvents which will render a fine photographic print on acid-free paper valueless.
I’ve always signed the matte with a pencil or a genuine fountain pen. My initials are there, and I’ve not infringed upon the work itself.
There are options. First of all, few things would be more upsetting to you than taking a Sharpie or similar permanent marker, trying to sign your name, realizing just how broad the line is as you are signing and feeling that you’re ruined the work of art.
Either keep the signature off of the work entirely, or get the very finest line Sharpie you can. And then experiment to see how it will go. Your OP makes it sound as though you are the artist. Did you print this? Did someone else? If you printed it yourself, then it’s easy to get a piece of the print paper from the scrap bin or run another print. If a lab printed this, try to get them to make just a 4x6 or 5x7 print of JUST that edge dark area. Simple to do if this is a digital image. That way, you don’t spend a fortune creating another full-sized print only to use it to scribble on.
What if you decide you really do want your signature on the print itself. Find out what that Sharpie looks like on the area you intend to sign in. Too light? Too dark? Silver ugly? Better to find a white paint pen? They do make very fine line paint pens. We use the Pentel White 100W S paint pen. This renders a fine line of bright white paint. Again, experiment first !!
Similarly, find a way to try a signature with pencil on the matte card first before you actually sign the work.
Good luck- and is there a way for you to share the image with those of us here who are photographers and art lovers?
Thank you. I find your post (and SpeedwayRyan’s) persuasive and comforting.
I did create the original, yes, but almost 40 years ago. It’s my contact print from my 4X5 inch plate negative, and this is the only print, and the negative is long gone. It took me a while to get it framed because I only just found out what it was for all along. I also have an agreement with the framer that if I spoil the mat I’ll just pay for another to be cut (bearing in mind that my handwriting is pretty iffy).
It is a picture of the Moon, and not a very unusual one except for the large size of the negative image it was printed from. The original focal length was 13,000 mm. There is sentimental value. I am sure it would be very ordinary indeed if I rephotographed the print and uploaded that.
Don’t frame it yet. And don’t take a photograph of it.
Whatever town you are in, find a professional photography printing place or graphics place. You seek the highest resolution scanning bed possible.
I’d strongly recommend scanning it. If it’s a contact print and is only 4x5, then an extremely high resolution scan would come in at… what, around 10 Gigs at the most? Meaningless these days.
Maybe you do want to photograph it.
I just checked their film vs print scanners.
Unless you find someone with a $20,000 (BH Price) Hassy scanner, all the high quality scanners are aimed at film. Do some checking - if all they are going to do is put your print on a cheap flatbed, maybe borrow a really good macro lens and copy board and get it back on film.
