How would I set up an automotive test bench (12v)?

I want to set up an environment where I can test the electeonic devices that are in an automobile.

A car battery is approx. 12v (12.6v iI am told is the actual voltage, as each cell delivers 2.1v to the system).

But, as you will quickly see, I know little about electricity, and even less on how to set up and test equipment, like a car radio, for instance.

What would I need for a set up? I don’t want to have a car battery sitting on a table in my garage. I would like the power source to be a bit smaller, and easier to work with.

Also, I would like to be able to test a number of different electrical items. Would I be able to use the same power source for everything, or would I have to figure out what the power requirements are for each device?

If anyone needs more information, please let me know. A google search was not productive, and I suspect its because I searched with the wrong terms.

So I come to the teeming millions for help!

Thanks

You’d use a “DC regulated power supply”. I have a Zurich DPS-1512M. It can be adjusted from zero to 15V. The difference compared to a car battery is that the battery can deliver much more current, but few things on a car need massive amounts of current. The starter is one that does need it, so you can’t test it with a power supply like the DPS-1512M. Most other things like lights, radio, brain boxes, gauges etc are fine.

http://www.zurich-electric.com.tw/zu-p01.html

You need a “bench” power supply.
If all you are interested in testing is Auto electronics, a 12v fixed supply would be fine. If you want something more flexible (for testing lower or higher voltage devices), get an adjustable supply.

A 5A supply will power most car electronics (not headlights). You don’t have to set the current limit ahead of time.

Here’s a nice one on ebay right now.

A high-current 12V power supply with a protected output (to keep you from doing damage from shorts and overloads) is the first step. You can find them, either fixed or adjustable across the normal automotive range (about 9-15 volts), from almost any online seller of tools and electronic gear. A fixed supply is good for most stuff; an adjustable one can help nail down subtle problems and help replicate in-car conditions.

An inexpensive multimeter. The one you can get free from Harbor Freight Tools is fine.

A DC ammeter that can read more than a few amps is a little tricky - they can be expensive. If the 0-2 amp range of a cheap multimeter isn’t enough, you can use any DC amp gauge (20-0-20 is a good range for most work, or 50-0-50 for heavier stuff) rigged up with some leads.

A handful of clip leads, both light duty and heavier-duty, make it easy to hook stuff up for testing.

That’s about it for testing and so forth. Repair will get into a couple of different kinds of soldering, lug-crimping and other tools.

Actually the voltage in a car can vary from about 10V to almost 15V depending on exactly the charging system is doing at the time.
About 14V will simulate a running car.
One easy way to achieve what you are trying to do would be use car car battery with a charger.
The voltage will be right and you will have all the amps you will need.
What are you planning to test, and how are you planning to test it?

If you can get a hold of a old computer power supply, they put out 12v in addition to 5v. There are plans out there to turn one into a multipurpose power supply.

FWIW “nominal” supply voltage for testing automotive electronics is either 13.8 VDC or 14.4 VDC depending on who you ask.

Rick’s suggestion of a car battery on a charger is a pretty good one.

If you are going to use a bench type power supply, there are two basic types.

A linear power supply will have very little electrical noise and will properly regulate itself over its entire load range, so small loads or no load isn’t a problem. You don’t see many linear power supplies these days, because they are physically large and generate a lot of waste heat.

Switching power supplies will have a lot more electrical noise. They also usually require a minimal load in order to regulate themselves properly, typically somewhere between 5 and 10 percent of their maximum rated load. Switchers are smaller and more efficient than linear power supplies, and generate a lot less waste heat.

One trick to use a switching power supply with a very small load is to load the power supply down with something else, like a powerful light that also works as a convenient bench light.

A car battery can supply a heck of a lot of current. Bench supplies that can crank out a lot of current get very expensive very quickly. For most things you don’t need to supply anywhere near the total current capacity of a car battery (unless you are testing starter motors for some reason) but if you are testing car radios, some of them can draw quite a bit of current, especially those with separate amplifiers and subwoofers and huge speaker systems and all of that. If you are testing this kind of high power stuff, the car battery on a charger may be by far your cheapest and simplest solution. The car battery on a charger solution can also handle a very wide current range, much wider than any bench type power supply that you can likely afford to buy.

Computer power supplies are almost always switching supplies. Turning one into a bench supply is quick, cheap, and easy, but does generally require putting some kind of load on the supply so that it will regulate itself properly. The 5 volt on a computer power supply is where all the beef is. The 12 volts is relatively weak. Computer power supplies are a much more attractive source for a bench supply if you are tinkering with 5 volt electronics.

The voltage on a lead acid battery is about 11.8 volts when it’s pretty much dead to 12.6 volts when fully charged. In a running car, the alternator will boost the voltage up by a volt or two, so anywhere from about 13 to 14 volts or so is pretty common, maybe up to 15 or 16 volts if you rev the engine (depending on the car). A quick and dirty test to see if the alternator is working is to measure the voltage when the car is off (you’ll just read the battery voltage) then measure it again with the car running and make sure it went up by a volt or two. A car’s electrical system is also very noisy. Not only does the alternator create a fair amount of ripple, but the spark plugs can generate a rather large amount of wide frequency noise. Keep these things in mind when you are testing things on your bench supply. The actual electrical environment of a car is a bit more harsh than that of your typical test bench.

Besides the electrical items it can be very handy to have fixtures to hold stuff, such as a vise and clamps of various types firmly attached to the bench. For example, in testing a blower or fan motor the spinning motion will tend to wrench it out of your hand, and light bulbs with terminals that alligator clips won’t grip can be really challenging to test with only two hands.

Yes, let’s get some details on what you’re testing. Please be specific.

As far as I’m concerned, the gold standard for this type of thing is a large linear Astron. I have a VS-50M. It is a great supply until you have to move its 46 pounds of bulk. Oh, and the edges are bladed heat sink which makes an annoying thing straight up painful. There are a lot of varieties to choose from. They may be a bit much for a beginner but check your local Craigslist, you may get lucky.

Consider a deep cycle battery, too. These are available from Sears or Walmart and, while also heavy, are fairly inexpensive and can really push a lot of power.

you can go to Radio Shack and get a regulated bench power supply with screws and accessory plug socket. maybe not for long though. there are similar from other places for not costly. it will have a circuit breaker that is push button reset which is a very important bench feature.

the idea of small charger with a battery is workable with caution. the battery can put out enough current to start your car which is enough to melt metal and burn you. so you would need to use with those cautions.

That’s what I’ve got out in my garage. I used an old computer PSU to make a car stereo boombox that also has a cigarette lighter powerport and a couple of 12v alligator clips. It obviously won’t spin a starter motor and I’m not sure I’d trust it with something expensive like an ECU, but it works great for testing light bulbs, small motors, etc.

I wouldn’t use a car battery & charger unless you were testing high-current devices like starters; with a battery, there may be outgassing issues (depending on the type) and you will need to make damn sure you never accidently short it out. If you’re just going to be testing standard electrical accessories and whatnot, I would get a regulated, 12 V (nominal) bench supply that can put out up to 10 A. You can buy a Pyramid PS12KX for less than $60.

You think that a car ECU is more delicate than a computer motherboard?

And here is a 30 A switching supply for $64 + shipping.

You can take a battery that is no longer strong enough to start a car and it will provide more than enough power for testing purposes. You can probably get one from a shop for the cost of the core charge ( currently about $12-$15 around here)
Gassing should not be an issue using a battery charger they are designed to taper off to prevent this. Plus you have a battery charger for your car.
You are correct about shorting the leads, but an inline fuse on one lead will take care of that.

True, you can install a 10 A or 20 A (or whatever) fuse. But if you want lotsa current (e.g. 100 A), you’ll need to bypass the fuse, or switch-in a larger one.

Personally, I don’t like messing with car batteries too much, as they can be dangerous. I would only use a battery & charger if I absolutely had to.

It’s not so much the PSU I’d be worried about, just the kludged together wiring. I probably wouldn’t want to power a motherboard with a couple of spliced-on alligator clips either.

What would you be bench testing that takes anywhere near 100A?
A starter motor out of the car takes at most maybe 50A. Modern gear reduction starters take much less than that.
In my mind the biggest risk with using a car battery is there is a chance you could drop the sum-a-bitch on your toe and that would hurt.

Well, yeah, there’s that!
:slight_smile: