Yaay!!!
Great! Nice of them to do that. Real customer service 
I gave the company 5 stars on Google.
I offered the guy a tip, but he said no–he had to lead by example.
I like to give service persons the chance to do the right thing.
They often will.
There are good people out there, still.
That put a lump in my throat. What a stellar human being! I’m glad they came through for you.
Yeah, I have to say I find this odd, myself.
Great update.
Thanks for the update – so glad to hear it! Now there’s a business that cares for its customers, and I’m happy you were one of them!
I assume you are now cool, both literally and figuratively! 
Who did you use?
StG
Advanced Cooling Heating Refrigeration
https://www.adv-chr.com/
No.
I got doors with glass panes.
Not the patio kind–I got ride of those, and I am happier for it.
Glad you got it resolved. For others who may be thinking of their unit, go online and find the model and locate the part number for the circuit board. You may even have the installation manual saved at home, I know I do.
Search for that part number. My furnace is 25 years old but I found numerous sources for replacement boards. I bought one in the original manufacturers sealed box and it was a recently made upgraded board. Less then $100.
Actually I have every spare part for my furnace on hand, even the heat exchanger. But that’s just me.
Commenting even though the OP’s situation doesn’t need it any more..
I’ve successfully used a doggie door for a sliding glass door as an adapter for a stand-alone A/C. I just pushed the tubes out the door flap. Not really secure, but it got the job done.
We had a new A/C system installed last year. The next day I went to the outdoor unit (compressor & condenser unit), removed the side panel, and wrote down the part numbers for the capacitor and contactor. I then bought three capacitors and two contactors from Amazon, and put them in storage. I think the capacitors were $15 each and the contactors were $20 each.
That’s a good idea on the furnace’s controller board. I didn’t think of that. I’m going to order a new one and put it in storage.
There could be health safety issues here if the temp in your environment soars into the nineties. Your company is responsible for that and is liable for heat related health problems. There are portable emergency AC units that can be used on a temporary basis if your room setup can accommodate them. I was, in fact, at an event this past Saturday that had one of those units, and it was quite comfortable.
I’ve had three incidents where a small rodent got into my external HVAC unit, and fried itself, taking a circuit with it. In each case, the HVAC guy opened the panel, removed the dead rodent, went to his truck to get a replacement part, and our everything back together. The cost was modest for a “please drive to my house quickly” service call.
I’m happy letting them keep extra parts on hand. I’d probably lose the parts. Interesting thought about the mother board, though.
They couldn’t sense the increasing heat and withdraw? That surprises me.
More like got inside, was electrocuted on exposed 120V contacts, and the resulting short also failed some of the delicate electronics in there.
Squirrels and rats are fairly regularly electrocuted on overhead power wires. Standing on the pole or cross-arm is fine. Standing on the wire is fine. Goof up the jump between them and make contact with both? Instant squirrel fricassee.
The power flow is far beyond what their tiny bodies can withstand, but at the same time is such a teeny drop in the bucket compared to the power going to all the houses & businesses that the power company and their various overload protective devices never notices anything out of the ordinary.
As for the controller board… I’m not an HVAC tech, but I think the controller board is only for the furnace/heater and air handler, not the air conditioner itself. For the latter, I don’t believe there is a “controller board”; the controller is the small thermostat unit on the wall. (But thinking about it more, the controller board also controls the air handler, which the AC needs, so… not sure.)
While we’re on the subject, it’s worth mentioning that, for central AC systems, a failed capacitor in the outdoor unit is the most common cause for system failure. It is also, unfortunately, a significant source of revenue for shady HVAC companies who charge homeowners $800 or whatever to replace them.
My advice to anyone with a failed AC system: cut power to the outdoor unit, remove the cover, and look at the capacitor. (Or capacitors, as sometimes there are two.) If you see any anomalies (bulging, etc.), replace it. It is easy to do, only requires basic tools - there are many YT videos on how to do it. And if you don’t see any anomalies, replace it anyway, since it might still be bad. The idea here is that it’s cheap and easy to replace, and there’s a good chance the cap is the culprit. Another is the contactor. Of course, this works best when you already have these replacement parts. See my previous post.
Right. Last time we had an AC issue, they had to replace the board inside the furnace since that also controlled the blower that distributed air, hot or cold, throughout the house. (They also did the capacitors, etc but it was ultimately a board issue)
You have a door in every room? Is this a house? I mean bedrooms have to have outside egress, usually a window. Sorry, I am just having a tough time imagining a home with no windows at all,