Well, it’s actually ale. I got a Mr. Beer kit for Christmas. It’s pretty cool and easy to use. The wort comes pre-mixed and all you do is add sugar water and yeast. The part I like the least is all the washing and sanitizing that has to take place. It’s not really hard though, just time consuming.
I’ve always wanted to make my own beer but was intimidated with the big fermenting vats. This kit makes 2 gallons of beer at a time.
For my first try, I made “Pale Ale,” which was the mix included in the kit. I think I had old yeast as it took about a month for the beer in the cask to ferment enough for bottling. The directions say it takes about a week. Then after bottling, It took several weeks again before it was carbonated enough. And the beer had a cidery taste. It’s only now, as I’m down to my last couple of bottles, that the cidery taste is disappearing. The Pale Ale is actually too light for my tase in a premium beer though. I might try it once more to see how much a difference it will be with fresh yeast.
For my second attempt, I made an “Englishman’s Nut Brown Ale.” Pretty good stuff! Comparable to a Newcastle ale. Much better than the first batch.
And I just sampled my third batch tonight. Instead of using the “Booster” sugar substitute that I used in the first two batches, I made an all malt ale, “Bewitched Red Ale” with “Pale Amber Malt.” This is good too. Your Bud/Coors crowd probably wouldn’t like the flavor, but I do. Don’t want to break my arm patting myself on the back, but this batch is comprable to a premium beer that you might pay $8 or more for a six pack.
You get a pretty good buzz from this stuff too.
This will probably be the last batch I make until the fall as optimum fermentation temperature is around 72 degrees Farenheit (lager requires much colder temps). In the Arizona desert, there is nowhere in the house that has that kind of constant temperature in the summer. Beer will still ferment at higher temperatures, but then you take the risk of producing chemicals which cause headaches.
It’s interesting that this kit came with plastic, one liter bottles. You make enough beer per batch to fill eight bottles. Except for some reason, I only had enough in my last attempt to fill 7 and 3/4 bottles. The plastic bottles are useful to test the carbonation stage. You squeeze them and when they are rock hard, they have adequate carbonation. Of course, you can use glass bottles and even the “Grolsh” type bottles with the cap that’s held down with a wire bail. But then the only way to tell if the beer is ready is by opening a bottle.
I recommend the Evelyn Woodhead Sped Redin Course to all my friends out there and tell them you saw it here on roller derby.
(Sorry, like I said, you get a good buzz from that stuff.)
Anyway, I’d like others to share their beermaking experiences and especially any tips or recommendations with the Mr. Beer system.