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Do piercers still balk at doing anything thin? I had 14 gauge ear and tongue pierces, and (at the time), piercers use to claim anything thinner was like having a cheese slicer installed in your flesh, and a couple thought I should have had 12 in my tongue at minimum. 14 was nice and thin, and with a good snag, slice! Always struck me as a bit old-wives’-tale-esque, and in the decade I wore my tongue pierce, my only problems were chipped teeth.
Oh, in reference to the OP’s question about jewelry costs, CBRs and barbells aren’t too expensive. IIRC from a few years back, basic hardware is <$20, usually tossed in as part of the cost of the pierce. The last two times I bought 14 gauge curved barbells, I paid $10 or so. Specialty jewelry is more.
For overall pierce cost, there is (or was, circa 2000) a general feeling that one should tip your piercer, and I tipped $10 on a $50 fee that included jewelry. Some piercers will give you a little bottle of antiseptic cleaner, too.
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I’m pretty sure my first piercings with a needle (both in the cartilage) were done at 20 gauge.
Good point in mentioning tipping. You want your piercer to be glad to see you when you come back for another piercing.
My understanding with aftercare is that, as with tattoos, there are several options. A reputable shop will recommend a good aftercare regimen and/or warn against poor choices (Bactine and betadine are out, IIRC) and also provide approximate healing times, which differ for the various anatomical locations. The shop I go to recommends warm salt water soaks.
For anything with threaded parts that screw together (like a barbell), make sure that the jewelry is internally threaded. This minimizes or prevents the threads from contacting and irritating the pieircing.
The shop I go to also has a frequent piercing card so that the 5th one is free (but not the jewelry).