On Saturday at 6:10am, we leave for a 2 week excursion to Quito and the Galapagos Islands. (It’ll probably be snowing here.)
Mainly a dive trip, so we don’t have much leeway schedule-wise, but does anyone have any don’t-miss suggestions for our short time in Quito? Or stories from your trip to one of the most famous island chains in the world? Advice on what to pack (already packed, but still)?
So excited. I hope for a whale shark sighting, but I’ll settle for taking some pics of blue-footed boobies.
In short: get prepared for the trip of a lifetime !
I did a 10 day live-aboard back in '04, and it was awesome. We went at right about this same time of year, and had 13 whale shark encounters (up at Darwin - I hope you’ll be diving there). So no guarantees, but I think you have a GREAT chance to see at least one whale shark.
Some tips:
though on the equator, the water is cool. And the water was cooler (low 60’s) in the southern islands (where we did our first dives). Up at Darwin (where we did the most dives), the water was a bit warmer - mid to upper 60’s. So you’ll definitely need at least a 6mm full suit, and I’d recommend a hood as well.
the visibility was not spectacular: maybe 40 to 60 feet at best. And often times closer to only 30 feet. This is because of all the stuff in the water, which is also why all the fish and the entire food chain is there.
up at Darwin, the current is strong. Chances are you’ll huddle down in the rocks to watch the hammerheads. And then swim out into the “blue” to maybe see the whale sharks or other stuff. Stay with the group. Our boat issued safety sausages and airhorns, and they did come in handy for some of our group.
if you’re not bringing some sort of underwater camera, it is likely you may be the only one on the boat not taking shots/video. Even a point and shoot in a housing will be worth it. We’re talking 100’s of hammerheads (circling Darwin), tons of turtles, mobula rays, marble rays, sea lions (that are very curious), the list goes on.
as to the land based tours, you needn’t bother with any big telephoto lens. The stories are true - because there are so few predators, most of the creatures are not afraid of you. So you can get right up to them. You could even grab a boobie if you wanted (though not recommended).
if you haven’t seen it, watch “Master and Commander” (Russell Crowe). Chances are you’ll visit this one bay and lookout seen in the movie.
Again, being on the equator, I figured the weather would be more tropical. But it was cooler than expected out on the boat. Breezy, some light rains, etc… So pack at least a windbreaker or sweatshirt. It did warm up when we did the land tours, but it wasn’t always so pleasant.
That’s all that I can think of off the top. We did our mainland stops in Guayaquil, so I can’t comment on Quito.
If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me. I look forward to hearing about the trip !
Yeah, what they say about the native fauna being complete fearless is pretty much true. I almost stepped on a bunch of iguanas that were camouflaged by the lava. You’ll get close up and personal with seals while snorkeling. Don’t touch the boobies, even though you’ll be tempted. The whole place is pretty spectacular.
I regret not having gone to the interior of the main big island to look around for tortoises. I hear it’s not particular easy (gnarley jeep ride and tough hiking) nor is it guaranteed to sight one, but hell, it would have been great to see a Galapagos tortoise in the wild. You can check out the tortoise sanctuary where I think Lonely George lives (I could be misremembering) and also see some tortoise that Darwin himself may have seen. But, it’s not nearly the same as seeing one in the wild.
Old town Quito is spectacular and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I heard it has some of the best preserved colonial architecture in South America (and a huge amount of it). It is however, pretty sketchy at night. Be careful about Quito traffic. I came within about 6 inches of being nailed by a trolley bus traveling about 50 mph when I stepped past a blind building corner. I seem to recall that there was a lot of petty theft on public transportation with guidebooks warning about thieves slashing the bottom of people’s daypacks on crowded buses.
I took a side trip to Otavalo, the home of the biggest indian market in South America. I bought a righteous armadillo bodied ukelele thing for almost nothing.
You’ll have an awesome time. Eat some delicious ceviche. You can also chow down on some cuy (guinea pig), which is quite good if you don’t mind the look of a cooked rodent with it’s little paws sticking up in the air.
Thanks, everyone! We are expecting cold waters, with 7mm wetsuits, hoods, etc. and “cool” surface temps (it was 18 degrees here the other morning, so no worries.) I’m glad to hear that the whale sharks are still a possibility in October - hadn’t read anything from anyone who had been there this time of year,** cormac262**. We do have a point and shoot with a housing that we’ve used before, so that’s all good. I’m also taking a nice DSLR for the land tours.
Was the crossing to Wolf and Darwin pretty rough? We’ve got seasickness patches, but I’d prefer not to use them if we don’t have to, as they make me drowsy.
I’d pack something (marked store-sealed containers) other than patches for sea sickness - ginger pills or what also might work for you.
Sunscreen, more than you need - in your checked baggage, double-bagged in a zippy container for leaks.
If you’re going to be out on a rail (or in a zodiac) on rough waves (or just about anything on a zodiac) have everything bagged or otherwise “tied” to you. Lost a disposable camera thinking my grip was secure enough.
Their money is pegged to the US dollar, so you can spend it readily there. Have small bills ready and a bit of course prepped for the crew at the end of the tour (generally an envelope that you put it in and its shared among the crew).
Have fun walking around Quito - I don’t have any Spanish so our travels were limited and we weren’t used to the altitude. There are internet cafes so you can check in if you need to for a couple of bucks.
Comfy shoes and socks - nothing much to add to the list above. Have a couple of lens filters with you so you don’t go around with a naked lens. You’ll get some condensation on the SLR and lenses, have a couple of cloths, too if you don’t normally carry them. Take more camera cards than you’ll need, and extra charged batteries.
Check with your hotel and the boat - make sure they’ll have electrical outlets that are to American standard for charging your items up. Our boat didn’t, but our hotel did.
I can’t remember if it was going from Wolf to Darwin, or coming back from Darwin, but one of the legs was “swelly” - not rough per se, but up and down and “rolly”. I would definitely bring the Dramamine. Our boat did those legs starting in the evening, so most of the trip was done while we slept.
The only other thing I can think of is that when we visited Charles Darwin station (where you see the tortoises), there were a fair number of mosquitos about. You might consider some bug spray or some of the bug-and-sun sunscreen. Don’t recall any bug issues on any of the other islands.
I made the same trip earlier this year. It was spectacular! One suggestion is to consider a trip to Mindo which is a few hours drive from Quito. Great chance to see some exotic birds. As to Quito, it was just OK for me. Not particularly exciting. But the Galapagos Islands – there’s the adventure and opportunity to see stuff you will not see anywhere else in the world. Other specific suggestions to follow …
You will need good camera equipment. If you only have a point-and-shoot camera, you will be doing yourself a disservice. Get a good camera that will allow you to focus on specific items of interest. And, yes, a good telephoto will be essential. That’s because you will be restricted to stay on marked trails while on the islands. If there’s something in the distance you will not be able to get any closer than the trails. You will also need lens filters to take pictures in the bright late afternoon sun. So bring the right equipment with you or you will miss those once-in-a-lifetime shots! Of course, you can always get pictures from others in your group, but there’s something cool about taking a great shot yourself.
Bring good hiking shoes. We bought some excellent Keen sandals. Some paths will be very rocky. Also wear clothes that will truly shield you from the UV. Because Quito and the Galapagos Islands are almost right on the equator, the sun’s UV is particularly strong. So also wear a lot of sunblock. A good hat also will be helpful.
If you plan to snorkel, it’s best to bring your own equipment to make sure that it will work for you. You will find some incredible wildlife under the waters. We had sea lions and exotic fish swim right next to us!
Note that there will generally be NO bathrooms on the islands, except for a few locations with visitor centers. And no, you are not permitted to pee along the trails. So prepare to handle that accordingly.
Have a blast. You’ll be talking about it in the years to come.
Thanks for the detail, nivlac. I’m pretty much packed, but I could throw in my UV filter as well as the polarizing one. I’m taking a Canon Rebel XSi, 18-200mm lens, which I’ve been practicing with this summer. Hopefully I will get some good shots! (The point and shoot is for underwater.)
No more time for questions, I guess. Off to bed and then up and off well before dawn.
Thanks so much for all of your suggestions and tips!
The whole place is pretty spectacular.