In other words, A frame around the perimeter filled in with 1 2x4 running “vertically” head to foot and 3 “horizontal” supports spanning the width of the box. This is the platform which will support the box spring, and it will be wrapped with 2x6s (also on edge), which will keep the box spring from sliding off the platform.
Here’s my question: what’s my best joint option for where the vertical center piece crosses the 3 horizontal supports? The joint only needs to hold the 2x4s vertical, it’s not like there will be much in the way of stress on it. My original intention was to use sort of a half-lap joint, but then I got to thinking that there might be a better option.
My limitations are basically this: I have only hand-held power tools (circular saw, jigsaw, router, drills) and hand tools (saws, chisels, etc.). If a strong enough argument can be made for something like pocket screws, I’m not averse to getting one of those little dealy-dos, but please don’t suggest something that requires a table saw, etc.
Where the outer ends of the interior “cross-supports” meet the perimeter of the platform will be butt joints and screws as will the corners of the perimeter, and I did consider off-setting the horizontal supports enough to butt-joint-and-screw them to the vertical support. I may yet, thanks for the suggestion.
I’m mitering the 2x6 outer frame and screwing it to the platform from the inside so there will be no visible fasteners at all.
IANAWWE (wood working expert) but if it were me, here is what I would do.
Change the center vertical to a 2x3 Take the top and bottom 2x4 cut a notch out say 3/4 deep. This will create a shelf that the 2x3 can set into and be supported from underneath. Obviously cut the 2x3 1.5 inches longer than the interior dimension of the bed. The top of the 2x3 should be flush with the top of the 2x4. For your horizontals run them all the way across from outer edge to outer edge. DO NOT cut them short, as they will flex with the weight of the bed and people on it. If they are too short, the cross piece will fall out, and the bed goes boom onto the floor. Ask me how I know this.
Again because the cross pieces will flex, just lay them in place so the ends can move a bit. They aren’t going anywhere.
It sounds like from your description that the only pieces suporting the bed would be the 2 horizontal 2x4s, resting on the perimeter frame at their ends and a 2x3 in the center which is supported only at its ends. So from top to bottom, I’d have a 2x4 perimeter frame with notched-out pieces at the head and foot of the bed in which rests a 2x3 so that it and the frame are flush at the top, then 3 2x4s at right angles to the 2x3 and resting on top of it and the sides of the perimeter, supporting the bed?
You didn’t specify what size the bed is so I’m going to assume king. Anything smaller than that really wouldn’t need the vertical run in the middle.
That being said, you still really don’t need it, a 2x4 isn’t going to be prone to twisting in your application. If you really want some extra stability though, lay a 1x4 on top, mark the 2x4s on either to either side, and notch them so the 1x4 will lay flush. Attach with wood screws.
One last thing to consider. A wooden king size bed frame will be heavy and very unhandy when it comes time to move it. You might consider building it in two halves to bolt together.
Oh, sorry. No, I’m planning on queen size for a number of reasons, not least of which is cost.
If the center vertical support is overkill, I’m more than happy to eliminate it altogether. One less 2x4 to buy, and the whole question of how to handle those joints made moot.
I just went and looked at the bottom of my queen bed frame. It is from Ethan Allen so it isn’t a bargain basement piece of shit.
Looking underneath the entire bed is supported by 4 1x3s placed across the width of the bed frame. Nothing at the head or foot. So based on that, and what Projammer said, drop the center vertical, and swap your horizontals 2x4 for 1x4 and save a few bucks.
No they are laid flat. I was actually surprised that that was all there is. I expected at least a ledge at the head and foot.
I am guessing the box spring adds quite a bit of strength to the assembly.
My daughter’s IKEA bed with no box spring has approx 1x4 slats spaced about 1" apart for the length of the bed (also a queen)
I actually looked at that IKEA bed online (well, at several IKEA beds) before I decided to build my own. I’m not ready to give up on a box spring just yet, but I need the bed elevated a little ways off the floor, hence my compromise “platform” design.
Your normal queen sized steel bedframe will have the two sides and three crossing supports. Of course, you need two just to make a box, going up to queen from full they add a center support.
I’d say you would probably be just fine with a 2x4 box and a center support. Or you can spend a few bucks on a steel bedframe and attach the decorative wood to it. I would definitely examine that option before building it myself, steel frames are strong, light, and not too pricey.
My main objections to steel frames is that (1) they rattle and (2) I’ve never seen one with the feet set far enough back that they were safely out of toe-stubbing range. However, y’all have all given me some good ideas, and I’m now thinking about some much simpler designs.
I’ve spent a portion of the last three weekends building a basic little shelf unit to put my microwave on. I’ve spent about 6 hours or so and around $60 on materials for something I could have gotten at Target for $20, but it’s fun to do, and I don’t have an apartment filled with particle board.
