Let's Talk About Clicker Training (Especially with Dogs)

Miscellaneous and Personal Stuff I Must Share
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I’m planning on getting a Rhodesian Ridgeback puppy this summer (no pics yet, since they’re not born yet), and will likely be using clicker training with the new pup. Who’s used this method for teaching their dog (or cat or horse or whatever)? Did you find it faster and/or more reliable than teaching using more traditional techniques with positive conditioning but without the clicker (i.e. baiting the dog with treats, rewarding with treats (or toys if not food-motivated) and praise)?

I didn’t do clicker training with my Norwegian Elkhound Gizmo (currently 12), but did do almost 100% positive training (no corrections/punishment) in the first few months. I don’t think he got a leash correction until he was about 6 months old. He’s kind of jumpy about sudden sounds (hates thunderstorms), and is afraid of the clicker noise, so over the next few weeks I’ll be working on convincing him, via hotdogs bits and ear scritches, that the clicker is the best thing ever. He already knows all the basics, and from what I’ve read so far, it sounds like it’s best to teach something the animal doesn’t already know with a verbal command. So I’m figuring I’ll try to teach him to sneeze on command; he already does it for attention, and I think it’d be a pretty funny thing for him to do. :smiley:

I’m already planning on puppy class with the new dog, plus more formal obedience training when he’s a little older, and will at minimum get a CGC (Canine Good Citizen) certificate with the new pup. I’m also thinking about agility classes. I took some agility classes with Gizmo, but it really wasn’t his thing; he like obedience classes much better.

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I have used it on three parrots. Two of them learned pretty well with it, and could probably learn a lot more if I took the time to teach them. The third bird has learned to click. It seems about them same as training them using praise and attention as a reward.

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I’ve used it on my horse to teach behaviors (tricks, basically) – it IS the same as using verbal praise but much, much more consistent, therefor more effective. I have taught my horse behaviors using verbal commands + praise + treats as well, but the clicker was much faster. It gives the animal something clear and distinct to listen for, unlike our voices which can vary from day to day in volume, pitch, etc. Yes, I think it is more effective than verbal praise/rewards for training purposes.

The best part about it is that it “trains the trainer” – it makes you highly conscious of how your actions influence the succes of the training. Timing is everything with clicker training (true story, I was trying to teach my horse to touch her nose to a target, and by clicking at the wrong moment, I taught her to lick the target. sigh Do you know how hard it is to UNteach something like that? Hard.)

In my experience, Positive-reinforcement techniques work best on animals that are food-oriented, intelligent, highly social and/or submissive, and exhibit general good behavior.
The work less well on animals that care nothing for treats, are rather stupid, are socially dominant, are inclined to be bitey or mouthy, or exhibit behavior that is dangerous to the handler. For these cases I’ve found that a mix of positive and negative techniques is most effective.

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No method is 100% effective for every dog. When you start training, you will learn more about your dog’s personality and what is right for them.

I trained my oldest dog with the “praise and pop” method, meaning that the dog wore a choke collar and got a gentle tug whenever she didn’t obey a command, and lots of praise when she did. She did very well on this method.

My next dog, I trained using the clicker method, but had to modify it slightly because she’s too smart. In the clicker method, you “trick” the dog into doing the behavior and then add the command later. She figured out after just a few tries to “misbehave” so that I would give the command and then give her a treat when she obeyed. As an example, I was trying to teach her “off” so I laid down on the chaise lounge. She would hop up, I would tell her “off” and then give her a treat when she complied. She quickly figured out that the best way to get a treat was to hop on the chaise so I would give the command.

Though my trainer said not to, I had to tell her “no” when she didn’t get the command right. Otherwise, she would just run through all of her trained behaviors trying to hit on the right one. (Not a harsh, corrective “NO!” but a shaking of the head and a gentle “try it again” tone.)

My youngest had to be trained very gently. He came from an abusive home, and giving him stern commands terrified him. The only way I could train him was by what I call the “luring method.” As an example, to teach him to lie down, I would put a treat in front of his nose and lower it to the floor, drawing it away. He would follow it, lying down automatically. I did the same with “sit”, holding the treat above his head and moving it backwards behind him until he lost his balance and sat. He’s very smart, and caught on after only a few tries.

I have found in my training that some dogs respond better to hand signals than they do to words, and almost all dogs do better when they have a combination of the two. Dogs are ultra-attuned to body language, and sometimes have a bit of trouble acclimating to a verbal command system. You can use the ones I use, or design your own. Use them when you say the command.

For “sit” make the “OK” sign and turn your hand upside down. Lift it upwards as you say the command. For “down” flatten out your hand, palm down, and lower it toward the floor. For stay, use the signal you would use to indicate “stop.” For “come” gesture as you would to a human, sweeping your hand toward yourself. For “heel”, sweep your flat palm over the dog’s head and begin walking.

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I love it! What everyone else has said is true, espcecially the part about how it trains the trainer. After a while, you really start seeing the world differently.

There are lots of internet lists where you can post specific questions and get lots of help. Clicker trainers tend to be friendly and helpful, so they can be good resources.

Remember that the dog determines the reward. For some dogs, the reward can literally be turning around a walking away for a few seconds. For some, it can be playing tug with a favorite toy. (Luckily, most dogs will work for food, which is easy for trainers.) It sounds like your dog’s reward right now might be ear scritches.

You should talk to Elenfair, who trains service dogs.

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I worked on getting Gizmo desensitized to the clicker today. I muffled the clicker in a towel to muffle the sounds, and gave him treats every time I clicked. Step one accomplished!

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Well, remember, you don’t HAVE to use something that clicks. You could use a bell, or something that buzzes, if he’s more comfortable with those noises. The only important feature is that the device makes a sound immediately when you push the button so you can instantly award good behavior.

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Good point. He’s seems completely fine with the clicker now, though, after just a few minutes. The power of HOT DOGS! :smiley:

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I used Bridge and Target Training to teach my cat(!) to come when called. It took one slice of turkey and about fifteen minutes. Heh.