I am new to finishing, so forgive me if this is a basic question.
I am re-heading my primary djembe. It’s made of some beautiful Iroko wood, and I’d like to bring it a bit of luster and bring out the grain.
It’s almost always indoors in living space, in a case when I’m traveling, or played outdoors in nice weather, so I don’t need protection per se–this is solely for aesthetics.
My plan is to put some linseed oil on a rag, wipe it on a section, wait two or three minutes, the use a clean rag to wipe it off/buff it a tiny bit.
Are there any pitfalls I need to be aware of? It’s my main drum so I’d hate to mess up the finish trying to do something nice (i.e. end up with streaks or major blotches).
Also, once I’m done, how long do I need to wait before handling it? I need to put a head on (I won’t be oiling the bearing edge), so there is some friction/contact where the rings are but they’re there permanently–there is little contact with the shell. Can I give it a couple hours or so or do I need to wait the full 12 hours or I’ll end up with oil all over my hands and other surfaces that I’m using to string it?
Oh, and you can assume I’ll dispose of the rags properly (metal can/water).
I would use walnut oil, for starters. Linseed oil can have an unpleasant odor and may go rancid. Both walnut and mineral oil are non-reactive and non-toxic, but walnut oil dries faster and more completely. I always apply the first coat with a rag, then apply subsequent coats with progressively finer sandpaper, starting with 400 grit and working to 1200 or even higher, depending on what I want to see. For a textured finish like your djembe, a rag is probably as rough as you want to get.
Thanks. Now I’m faced with the choice of putting this off for a week (I’ve planned on keeping this weekend open for a while) or dealing with the odor and rancidity risk.
I’d say I’m a impatient fuckall, but I’ve had this particular head since July and am finally getting a chance to put it on (head is a crazy dyed skin I picked up at a music festival).
Odor: as in when I put it on or will there be a heavy, noxious scent in the parlour from now on? Is it permanent or could I put keep it in one a spare room until it cures in a few days/weeks?
As for rancidity, most of what I’m finding is on edible flax oil or raw linseed–there are discussions of decades-old boiled linseed that are still good. Or are you talking about the finished product going rancid? Has this happened often (great risk) or an occasional risk? What happens when it does?
Boiled linseed probably doesn’t have the rancid problem, and the smell may go away over time, since you’re not using it on the inside of a drawer or other enclosed area. Tung oil also has an odor, but it’s pretty mild and eventually will disappear. There’s also Danish Oil (natural; you can also get it tinted), which is made from tung or polymerized linseed oil, but mixed with about 1/3 varnish. It’s long lasting, with a hard finish, with little or no odor. I really like it for most projects. Danish oil can be found at most hardware or paint stores.
Now assuming the finish is fine and just dirty/aged, I have had some really great luck at times with Amish Wood Milk as a general rehabber. I’ve used it on everything from antique furniture to firearms with some nice results most of the time.
On second thought on the milk – test a spot along the rim first with the cleaner. Hand on the Bible, I’ve used it for ages with no issue except on a piece I thought was veneer that turned out to be some funky contact-paper-like crap. But reading the web, folks are either full of shit or having some serious issues with it.
My nephew the drummer tells me that he uses linseed oil (mind you it’s the obvious choice for Aussies as we once learned to oil cricket bats as kids). He says don’t worry about what woodworkers use, they are trying to make the wood harder, you are trying to keep it moist and supple and reduce cracking. He says you should be oiling it inside and out once every 6 to 12 months anyway without regard to appearance.
When they’re a raven’s desk?
Combination of impending snow, other errands and impatience kept me from returning to the store this time, but with about 20 other drums in the house and a new workshop in the basement, I’ll be getting a *lot *more experience with various oils over time.
Well, most commercially available “tung” oil finishes are probably primarily varnish with a bit of tung oil thrown in for flavor. But I’m not too aware of any finishes that would keep wood “moist”. Maybe a beeswax/oil mix. You really want an oil to polymerize or it’s gonna be sticky and nasty.
