Long story short: I inherited an old roll-top desk that my Dad used as a hobby station in the basement. Having been badly treated the last 17 years, it got some serious mold and mildew issues to the point I had to partly disassemble it and take bleach water to it just to get it back to some hope of a future outside of a landfill. My bet is the original finish was spar varnish or something like that based on what I see and its age (ap 1880 to 1920). It was never fine furniture; just something a doctor had for a small simple practice. And I know its going to have to get sanded and all before I even think about the top coat. My intention is to use it much as Dad did - a little hobby “axis” in a much better basement location than were it was last kept.
So my question becomes ---- possibly going over some trace remaining finish here and there and all ---- tung oil or polyurethane? What would be the advantages and disadvantages of each? Most of what I’ve done in the past is more the extremes: firearms (tung) and floors (poly). This is just different enough for me and important enough to me to want to hear from better minds.
If it matters, the wood is oak. And pics are available if you want to PM me an e-mail. I’m one of those freaks with no online place to hide pictures.
Check out the Watco brand of “danish oil finish”. They are either natural or tinted, probably cheaper than Tung, but accomplish the same thing. It leaves a nice satin finish, and wont need to be redone for many years.
Minwax brand also has a line of similar sealer/stain/finish.
My vote is for Polyurethane. The irony is, the Tung oil makes the wood look more like plastic than the polyurethane. In my experience, a double coat of polyurethane (with mild sanding in between) seems to complement the wood better. Tung oil seems to be either too little or too much, no perfect balance. I have no idea about durability though, but I’d assume something synthetic like polyurethane would last longer.
I’ve tried that and the fallback “Lin-Speed” and while I never hated the result, it never really grabbed me either. It could be me more than the product though.
Tung oil isn’t durable enough for furniture, IMHO.
And for a really nice durable finish on smaller items, try Tru-Oil. It’s made for gun stocks and can be found in sporting goods stores. It is very nice stuff, applied in many thin layers it will provide a tough glossy finish.
Seconding Watco Danish Oil. Stuff sold as Tung oil is always Tung oil. It’s not that poly isn’t good stuff, but old wood can be exceedingly dry and can use some refreshing from oil.
Danish oil here, too. I use satin poly on hard-use tabletops and you might want to use it on the actual desk surface, but for the tambour cover and outside and drawer faces, Danish oil would be my choice.
You are starting to get my attention. This being a roll-top my question becomes – can I rub a couple layers into the slats without having them stick together? I am really hoping not to totally disassemble the top section.
It should dry fast and if you keep working the top up and down for a while you’ll probably be ok. A first layer may absorb the oil very quickly and not leave much on the surface. Linseed oil may be better for the slats since it dries so very quickly. It could be the slats need it more than the rest of the wood being so thin with so much surface area. I’d certainly be more worried about poly causing the slats to stick together. There are a number of woodworking websites where you’ll probably get some advice based on actual experience with rolltops.
Given your description of the condition, this warning may be out of place but I have to say it - if there is any value in the desk as an antique, refinishing will remove it!
That depends on how it’s valuable as an antique. If it has original finish, if it was made by a well known woodworker or has some other historical significance it may be more valuable left alone. If it’s just old then refinishing will increase it’s value. At this point with the work already started it’s probably best to complete the project.
To answer DOC and TRI together sort of ----- its value as an antique is very minimal for as large and heavy as it is and in the condition I got it the value was more in salvage of the wood to make other things than to actually try to use it as a desk. A couple parts are dovetailed but the vast majority is cut-nail pinned and a couple wooden pins. When it was new it was heavy-duty but lower cost and far from craftsman made. It was never fine furniture – more the office version of a work bench. The only good thing I can say is its all actual solid wood with no veneer.
Value is all in my brain and heart. I remember sitting on Dad’s knee as he worked on various things at it; it was just always a center in his life. And he knew where it came from; we have a picture of the original owner (tintype) when he started his medical practice. OK, this was his “later years” desk and not the one when he was a big fancy doctor but ----- we do know its history. If I can just use it the same way it will be priceless ------- to me. As furniture even professionally restored the value would be maybe $200-$300 at best.