Last fall I was without power for three days because PG&E shut things down during a period of high winds. It’s almost certain that the same thing will happen this year, and for several years to come. I’m thinking of buying a home generator to get me through these outages.
I know some of the basics, like the fact that I mustn’t run it indoors, and that I must disconnect from the grid if I connect the generator to my home wiring (and must disconnect the generator before reconnecting with the grid).
I need to know how to care for a generator. How often should I start it to ensure that it stays in good shape? What type of fuel should I use (marine gas, maybe)? Should I drain the fuel when the generator isn’t in use? How long will fuel last if stored in a proper airtight container? Is there other maintenance I’d need to do, like changing the oil?
I had a small gas generator years ago. When I bought it, I tested it to verify it worked properly and like lawn mower storage, I added some fuel stabilizer and ran the engine until it was out of gas. Then I pulled the spark plug and squirted engine lubricant into the cylinder and turned it over several times leaving the spark plug out. I replaced the plug and the unit was stored in my garage (covered with a plastic garbage bag) for the next 3 years until a hurricane and power outage. I filled it up with gas and it started after several pulls.
Be sure to have a voltmeter available because adjusting the engine speed is critical to ensure proper voltage output at 110v. The generator manual will hopefully discuss this in more detail but if you can go online and find the manual, it may provide more insight into proper usage and storage.
I’m sorry I can’t comment on the model, but I suspect it’ll work out if properly stored and exercised often.
I have one about that size, and I run it once a month for 30 minutes to keep things lubed and working. Mine has a 30 amp 240/120V outlet as well. If you intend to use the full capability you’ll probably need a transfer switch to your electrical service (fuse box). I had one installed last year along with the connector box. Cost was around $800 IIRC. If not included, you’ll need the 30amp cord to connect to the house. I have a 25 foot size, but you’ll need to determine size based on where you’ll place the generator when running.
I built a small enclosure* outside to protect from rain when running, and run the cord under the closed garage door to connect. It allows me to run all the monopole circuits in my house (lights and fans) and exactly one large appliance. It can’t run the central AC, so I placed small window AC units in the 2 upstairs bedrooms so we can cool just those rooms (it runs those OK).
*2 cinderblock walls with a slanted wood roof, open sides.
I have one from about 2003. It still works when I need it and starts up fine. I have somewhat neglected some things I used to do, like run monthly and change the oil on schedule. I do try to make a point to run it at least once every 6 months. This also carried quite a load as the well pump uses about 70% of it’s capacity, and I have run a 15,000 BTU a/c on it for hours. What I do is run it dry when I do use it (turn the fuel cock off and let it run out) use ethanol free gas with Stabil in it, I also add carb cleaner right before running. What I do seems to work well for longevity and use that same procedure/gas for my lawn mower which is also that old and works like new, and my snow blower. This one however I usually need to unscrew the carb bulb at the start of the season, spray it down and then I’m good for the season, though last one I just tried some starting fluid instead and it was enough to get it going, so overall this method does have a good track record. I also use high octane fuel and that is for 2 reasons, the main reason is that I can only get non-ethonol fuel in that type, the second reason is that I’ve heard (not sure I believe it but it’s possible) that the refining process is different which causes regular fuel to go stale faster.
I now have a natural gas fired automatic 20kw generator that will run my whole house for as long as gas comes out of the pipe in the ground (and the oil gets changed). That’s the best option, but not what it seems is being asked.
Prior to that, I had a 7.5kw portable generator that I would wheel out of the garage and plug into a generator plug and transfer switch during a power failure. I bought a propane conversion kit for it, so it would run off of LP instead of gasoline. I usually have 2 or 3 30lb LP cylinders for the grill (yes, 30, not 20) that would run the generator for a day or so each, depending on the load.
The benefits are that LP doesn’t go stale, and when you go to start the generator it starts every time. No fuel turning into goo in the carburetor, no stabilizer in the tank, no ethanol separating out or attracting water. When you’re done with the generator, turn the fuel off and let the engine eat up what’s in the hose. Simple. I could also pull start it if the battery died (my wife could not, though).
The only downside was that there is a de-rating of the generator’s capacity, as LP doesn’t have as much energy as gasoline. I think with the de-rate it ended up at 6200 watts. Still enough to run most of the house, particularly if I sequenced loads (shut off the air conditioner before running the septic pump, etc.).
It’s been many years since there was any manual adjustment like that on a consumer generator, and 110 is low voltage these days - 120 is the spec now.
For the OP - give at least a little thought to an inverter generator. These things produce DC internally, then feed that into an inverter to produce perfect 60 Hz power at 120 volts, regardless of load. Your electronic devices will appreciate this. I’ve got a 6200-watt inverter here waiting for the next time PG&E starts calling the cats. (Public Safety Power Shutdown, or PSPS)
My ultimate goal is to install a generator interlock or transfer switch on my breaker panel and mount a generator power socket on the side of the house. For now, extension cords to the fridge and freezer will have to do.
There’s link in your HD link that has a *“Usage and Care Manual” pdf *which should answer all of your questions.
The general rule for small motor storage when not in use is: if you store them outdoors (where they’ll be subject to temperature fluctuations) you want zero air in the tank, so store it with a completely full tank of fuel, with added fuel stabilizer. The temperature fluctuations cause moisture in the tank’s air to condense inside the tank get into the fuel system. You want as little air in the tank as possible.
If you store it indoors, in a constant temperate environment, it doesn’t matter. Just add the appropriate amount of stabilizer to any leftover fuel. It won’t hurt it to drain the tank, fog the plugs etc, but that’s not necessary on most modern motors when stored indoors.
As far as starting goes, it won’t hurt it to start it and run it for a few minutes every couple months, but unless the manufacturer explicitly tells you to do so, I wouldn’t fret.
I have a 2000w Honda at our cottage. After I close the cottage in October it sits untouched in an unheated shed from October to late May with huge temp fluctuations (down to -30C in the winter), and every spring for the last 10 years since I got it, it starts on the first pull and runs beautifully. I change the oil, oil filters, air filter, fuel filter etc as per their care manual. That’s it.
I spent a week in an ice storm without electricity. I wired the electronics of the furnace to the generator. I would awaken when I heard the engine sound change, indicating that I need to top of the oil as instructed in the manual.
Living now in the city, I worry about preventing the generator from being stolen.
We’ve recently learned of the existence of what amounts to battery backup systems for the whole house and are considering adding one even if all it is capable of running is our refrigerator.
Our plan for our forever home is a gas-fueled generator similar to that mentioned above.
When I lived in the country, I’d have a multi-day power outage every couple of years. After the first one I got a 5500 running/8500 starting generator and it was plenty adequate to run my 2000 ft^2 house with a 220V well and electric stove. I DID have to make sure I managed the load, of course- if the oven was running, it wouldn’t do to have the well kick in.
After the first outage, of course I did nothing to prepare for the next one. When that came, well, I got the key house systems running, but it was not what one would call safe. After that I installed a proper transfer switch. Much goodness, that.
I followed the oil change requirements, and ran the carb dry between uses. It always started right up. Incidentally, an electric start is not worth it, IMO, unless you use it often enough that the battery won’t die in between. Or, I suppose, you’re one of those maintenance nerds who loves that stuff.
I found that I went through about 3-5 gallons of gas/day, but I would shut it down when nobody was home (ie, work day).