Storing a gasoline powered generator can allow parts of the fuel system to gel up and clog. Perhaps turning the fuel valve off and letting the running engine run itself dry would fix this. But the manual just says stop the engine, then turn the valve off.
Would it be better to run it dry?
Maybe the reason not to is the way the engine revs way up and down when I try this. I guess it’s trying to regulate its speed while dealing with the fuel starting and stopping as things run dry.
I have a Generac XG series 10 KW generator, but I’d think the principle would apply generally.
The specific practice I’ve been told to use with small gas engines is to switch off fuel feed and let the carb run dry when putting the device in storage - lawn mower in the fall, snow blower in the spring. I’ve been given two reasons: that gas sitting slightly exposed in the carb bowl will absorb water and make starting hard, and that fuel additives, especially the alcohols now almost universal in gas, will corrode aluminum parts.
For a generator, which you want to start right away when you need it, I’d leave fuel in the carb for any projected storage of up to a month. If you’re really putting it away until camping or storm or construction season, run it dry.
I start and run my generator for 10 to 15 minutes around the first of each month. It charges the battery and keeps things ready to go if needed. I just turn the key off then the fuel valve and put it back in it’s storage box when I’m done.
Remember that the gasoline in the tank and lines plus in gas storage cans has a somewhat short shelf life. Treat any gasoline that’s not going to be used within a couple of months with something like Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer. It keeps gasoline fresh for up to 12 months. If you use Sta-bil in your gas, you could just shut off the engine normally.
And if you pic in an area that adds ethanol to fuel, make sure you get the blue stabil. It’s called marine stabil and it captures water in the fuel better.
I don’t know what it is but a local small engine guy tells me there’s a non-gumming gasoline substitute that should be used for long term storage of engines.
A generator-sized engine might have a carburetor drain plug. That’ll make things easy, just switch the fuel off and drain the carburetor. Leaving the gas in the fuel tank for many months usually isn’t a big deal so long as you get it out of the carburetor.
I’ve been putting various small gas powered equipment into storage for years, including motorcycles and always used the following method.
Just prior to storage, I add the specified amount of STA-BIL (gasoline stabilizer) to the tank, then fill it with gas. By filling the tank that prevents any additional moisture from entering the tank. The STA-BIL helps to keep the gasoline fresh and is good for up to a year.
In the spring, when these motors are usually brought out of hibernation, they start on first try and run smoothly from then on.
I never run the tank or gas lines dry. If you do so, and the tank is metal, there is always a chance of rust getting a foothold.
Btw, prior to putting any of these motors away for an extended length of time, I always change the oil. That way, there is no moisture in the motor.
If the equipment, such as a motorcycle, has a battery, I hook it up to a Battery Tender and leave it. The BT will monitor the battery and keep it at maximum charge without over-charging it. Never start a motor and run it for a short time to charge the battery.
Not really related and not meant to hijack…
I live in an area with high moisture content and regarding the STA-BIL additive really does help for short or long-term storage.
A link below explains things:
bb49’s advice regarding running an engine to charge the battery is the best advise in this thread. Using a smart battery charger that can be left connected all winter is a much better idea. Remember hearing that short trips are hard on your cars engine? Charging any machines battery by running it this way is the shortest of short trips!
As far as draining the float bowl, that is the way to go. If there is a drain plug, remove that to drain the gas. If there is no drain plug, removing the float bowl is easy to accomplish. Mark the float bowl in some way so you can get it back on in the same position before removing the bolt in the center of the float bowl. If you get the bolt out and the bowl is stuck, tap LIGHTLY with a screw driver handle and it will come off. Empty the bowl and put it back on careful to not cross thread that center bolt. Pull bolt down a little more than hand tight and you’re finished until next year assuming you put Sta-bil in the tank earlier.
The reason you don’t want to run your engine to charge the battery is because that encourages moisture to accumulate on the inside walls of the engine. That’s bad news.