Loosening compacted soil -gardening Q?

I have a little flower bed along the front of my house. For year-round looks, and simplicity, I want to plant some evergreen shrubs there.
However the soil is rock hard, and what I planted there last summer (hostas and impatiens mainly) just languished. I know I have to dig up and amend the soil, but with what? I’ve read various things from gypsum to vermiculite, but I want to get it right. I don’t want to spend $150.00 or so on shrubs just to have them die on me.
What would be the best way to amend the soil?
Thanks.

It is hard to know specifically what your soil needs unless you test the Ph level and then move on from there adjusting acidity. Also, different plants prefer different levels. A general fix is to apply cow manure fertilizer and till it in, thus softening the ground as well.

Your county gov’t. should have an ag. program as an extension of a state college or university. They often have a Master Gardener program, staffed by volunteers. They provide soil testing services an a nominal fee and gardening advice for free. If it’s not listed in the phone book, call your local gov’t. information number.
You might also try this site: http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/ They have available numerous publication on a wide variety of subjects including horticulture. Their prices are very reasonable.
Sounds like you have a clay soil. That usually calls for mixing in sand and perhaps some peat moss, but they should be able to give you more specific advice.

Sand and clay frequently make an even worse combo. When it dries out you get a really good concrete-type “soil”. If you have clay, the best is organic matter and lots of it. Gypsum is also good for clay soil but it costs more and does less.

Ditto organic matter. I have never gotten my soil tested but my garden flourishes. I add compost (either purchased or homemade) every year - it seems I can’t go wrong there. If you are planning on growing speciality plants or having major dead plant problems go for soil testing, but IMO it isn’t necessary for most people.

…orare having major dead plant problems…duh. No one wants dead plants.

I should also add that if you are planting evergreen shrubs next to your house, pelase, please, please check the mature size of those shrubs. So many times I see huge overpowering shrubs planted next to houses, blocking windows, overgowing sidewalks, etc., and that looks awful. I know they look cute when you see them (baby-sized) at the nursery, but they grow quickly and can get out of control fast. There are some nice miniature varieties and for next-to-house use I’d choose those.
Don’t be conned by the cute little shrubs that grow up to be monsters!

Indeed, adding too little sand can make the problem worse. It’s best to add sand and organic matter in the proper proportions, which is why I suggest professional advice and soil testing. Why guess when doing it right is so easy and inexpensive? It’s not something you have to do every year.

I’ll second, third, and fourth compost. A lot of it.

Further to what Boscibo said, another thing to consider would be future root damage, if you put too large a plant too close to such things as garden wall foundations, sidewalk, curbs, et cetera.

You’ll also want to keep track of where your water service comes into the house, and where your sewer leaves the house.

But I’m not much of a gardener, so ask your local arborist experts about how much clearance to figure, and what else you can do to protect these different things.

Far and away the best mix I’ve found are equal parts of compost, vermiculite and peat moss, all of which you can get at any decent gardening store. The vermiculite aerates the soil, the peat moss helps retain water and the compost provides nutrients.

I use this mix for all my raised vegetable beds, flower beds and shrubs.

Well, I checked the MSU ag extension website; they suggest composting and I can get a free soil analysis - this is a house I’m selling though, & I don’t want to put a * ton* of effort into it. I’ve had great gardens before, just never had to deal with this awful clay soil! My last house I had a big compost heap. That was old farmland and the soil was great with tons of earthworms. (Maybe I should introduce some!)

The guy at the home & garden store suggested peat moss and compost - I like bare’s vermiculite idea too. I have MSU’s number and I’ll give them a call tomorrow; they’re helpful folks.

There’s such a plethora of shrubs; I’ll be sure to get them from a good nursery. Last house I planted tons of yew along the property line - they were pretty and I don’t think the get huge? I’ll definitely do lots of compost, I just wasn’t sure that would be enough to loosen the soil so thanks for all the other suggestions!

The sewer & water lines are on the other side of the house; no worries there. My little fron yard is on a hill with a maple and a mulberry tree shading it - soil’s awful there too but I think aurating it will be a good idea? I’m certainly not going to the time and expense to re-sod the whole thing! This is an old, marginally rundown neighborhood and that would be a waste of time. Big pots of petunias do wonders for summer curb appeal. :slight_smile:

I can tell you how to dig it over, but it’s a lot of work. Check with a garden store and see if they know of someone who does tilling. A fellow will come out with a Troy-Bilt and make everything fluffy, turning in your peat moss and whatever. It doesn’t cost much, and if you’ve ever dug over a new bed by hand, you know the service is cheap at twice the price.

Heh. I’ve dug and tilled really large areas myself; I know what you mean! It’s definitely worth hiring out.
This is a small bed though. Maybe 10’x4’. I’ll do that myself, and hire out the lawn aerating.

If the soil is that hard, why even bother digging it up. Or if you do dig it up, haul it off and get rid of it. Otherwise put in some landscape timber, fill it with the mix and plant directly into it. If you use the mix I outlined, you’ll never have to till again. You can stick your hand right down to the original surface, even years later. I believe it’s the same sort of mix that plants come potted in. Most shrubs roots grow laterally instead of vertically, so you can get away with as little as six inches of mix depending on the size of your transplants.

How about sheet mulching ?