So the wife was using my car and said that as she pulled into work the vent started blowing out steam. I asked if it smelled like antifreeze and in her helpful way I got that it DOESN’T smell like smoke. :rolleyes: I know she ran the A/C full blast and it is very hot and humid here in Colorado so I’m praying it was condensation. If not, looks like I’m going to bypass the heater core and spend the summer learning how to take the dash off.
Yeah, miserable job. I remember the labor estimate in the Mitchell Guide would show anywhere from like 5 hours for some cars to maybe 75 years for others. If you could work faster than the speed of light, you’d finish before you started, but still the misery lingered.
On the other hand, I drove an F-150 that would exhale just a single puff of coolant each day that you turned on the heat. But it never got any worse, and very rarely would you have to top it off. So it stayed that way for years.
You have my sympathies. I had one car where I decided replacing the heater core would cost more than the rest of the car was worth.
On the bright side, I’ve also had cars where the problem actually was condensation!
My memory isn’t what it used to be, but one of my cars had that problem and I seem to remember that the condensate pan was plugged up, the run-off didn’t make it outside and for some reason that was steaming up. But I won’t swear to it in court. A different car had the heater core go bad and it leaked anti-freeze inside the passenger area, but no steam.
Hope some of this helps.
The old joke is that the heater core is the first piece of the car to roll down the assembly line and everything is bolted to it, working outward.
Depending on the car, it may be impossible or illegal for a DIY guy to change a heater core as they’re often married to the air conditioner evaporator, so the AC system must be evacuated by a licensed AC tech before disassembly, then re-charged afterward. A pox on whoever came up with that design.
Depending on the car, it’s possible that some clever person figured a way to saw holes in the ductwork to access the core without disturbing the AC. Crude but effective, I guess.
I’m still stuck on humid and Colorado used in the same sentence without the word not between the two.
It’s a Jeep so probably.
Here in the Western part of Colorado, it has rained more in two months then it usually does in two years, or so it seems. It reminds me of the PNW.
Heck it is raining right now! Thunder & lighting! Oh my! We are currently under a flash flood watch as well. We are having a very wet year so far. While our humidity is usually below 10%, it is currently hovering at 85%.
Not condensation. Vapors pouring out of the vents is most assuredly the heater core. The core in my (Neon) SRT-4 went bad at about 120k miles; changed it myself which practically required removing the entire goddamned dash from the car.
After what Daimler did to Chrysler, I will never in my life give a German car company any of my money.
When my wife’s Suzuki showed the symptoms (instant fogging of windows, sickly-sweet smell) I just had the dealer do it. Money well spent.
That’s good. And pretty danged accurate IME.
I did a 1987 VW Golf about a year ago. Took 2 weeks to get the core, about 5 hours to disassemble the dash (learning as I went, remembering what went where, etc.), something like 5 minutes to swap the part, and 2 hours to reassemble.
And then the wife held up a part and asked, “What’s this go to?”
It was the uppermost duct that defogged the windshield. The hardest part to get at, second only to the core. I’m in Colorado where it’s (usually) very dry, and this car was a hockey puck on the snow, so we don’t often need the defogger. I thought about it for a long, long time and eventually did the right thing.
But yeah–nasty job. Years and years worth of dust and lint twixt driver and the core.
I changed one once on an '83 Corolla. Never again.
I’d rather reach too deep into my pocket than crawl around in those ungodly positions again.
The only heater core I ever replaced due to a leak was on a '93 Buick Skylark. Took 30 minutes. Oh, yeah, I put one in a '63 Lark Cruiser along with its blower motor and hoses. They were in the trunk when I bought the car. That took forty minutes.
I recommend old Skylarks and Studebakers to those who would replace heater cores.
So I drove the Jeep around to get it up to temp with the blower up to level 2. Turned on the heater. Turned on the defroster.
Heater core is good. Must have just been condensation in the A/C.
Been there, done that and when elected emperor I will mandate that all heater core cases have a door built in just for that purpose.
As Emperor the following parts will be engineered so that only 1 hr labor is needed to replace:
heater core
fan motor
windshield wiper motor
alternator
water pump
power steering pump
starter
fuel pump.
spark plugs
any control motor that directs heat/air
Here’s your car
Did you get heat? Did you check the level in the radiator? If there’s no coolant left, there wouldn’t be anything to spray out.
Got plenty of heat and reservior was full.
My 88 turbocoupe just about covered that list. I could pull the heater core in an hour as well as anything on the engine. Not sure about the wiper motor.
Try that on anything built in this century.