Quoted for truth. Any man who wants to look good in a suit needs a tailor. Also when you bring your suit in to be tailored bring the shoes with you that you plan on wearing with the suit so that the taylor can help you select the right cuff on the pant legs and mark the right place for the length since dress shoes tend to be smaller than Nikes.
This also bears repeating: Do not buy a new suit and then not also buy new shoes if you don’t have a clean pair. Shoes are the capstone of the outfit and a scrubby pair of old wingtips will make even a $5000 Brioni suit look like crap. If you’re going all out for a suit, get new shoes and a new belt too, or suspenders if you’re into that kind of thing. Hell, get new socks too. Have someone help pick it all out too if you need. The confidence level that having a tied together outfit brings will make you look much more comfortable in a suit if you’re not the kind of guy who wears one often.
The fun thing for black suits for me is selecting one really bold color and using it as an accent all over. Black suit, white shirt, black shoes…but then say a pink tie, pink socks and a pink pocket square. The key to pulling off a hip black suit is to either go pimp ass bold or to make a fashion statement by wearing a skinny tie (if you’re slim enough to pull that off) or no tie at all and an open necked shirt.
I believe that in saying “independent tailor” **kunilou **meant one not affiliated with a store that sells clothing. In my area, there are tailors that just do alterations and so forth, they don’t sell suits (or any other items for that matter). So you can get good advice and service from a tailor without the expense of a custom-made suit. And in that case, you aren’t ripping anyone off or taking advantage.
It may be the case though, that in some regions (or maybe even most?), tailor shops generally do offer the service of custom suits, shirts, etc. But where I live, that seems to be another separate category of shop, and much more expensive.
Stop being all reasonable and shit, its making me look bad.
Yeah, I guess I associated tailors with shops selling fancy suits. I had a picture of suave bald men with tape measures around their necks welcoming you into their shops on Saville row. I should have pictured short bald men with glasses working by candlelight in some pokey little shop in Soho.
All shops that sell suts offer tailoring service, but not all tailors offer custom clothing since that means that they need to have multiple bolts of multiple types of very expensive fabrics on hand which is a killer overhead, then plus the ability to actually make suits and shirts which is a pretty specialized skill set.
You know who are some of the best tailors I’ve ever seen? The people at the local dry cleaners. They get lots and lots of work so they’re very experianced and then they have a really reasonable rate and a fast turn around time too. I’ve never had them do a raw suit, but I have them take in things for me from time to time and I always like the work that’s done. I have most of my better dress shirts tailored to me after buying them, because I can make a $40 dress shirt look like a $200 dress shirt with an extra $10 worth of tailoring thrown in.
One of the reasons I like Jos. A. Bank is that every one of their stores I’ve bought from has an in-house tailor whose adjustments are included in the price of the suit (even if it’s on one of those deep-discount 3-for-1 sales.).
Which is nice, no argument, but since Jos. A. Bank is the home of the “sack suit” or the box cut suit there’s little else that they really need to do besides hem the pant legs and jacket sleeves. I’m a fancy guy and I like things like custom jacket linings and having the back of the jacket and the armpits darted to slim it down while still allowing for some breathing room in the front. I also like to play with the stand if there’s room and move the buttons around on the front so that my jacket will break *just *so and leave me with a cleaner lapel. And replace the buttons while we’re at it. Tailors can really do some amazing things in terms of really fitting the suit on you to your tastes, which makes it far more comfortable to actually wear.
Meanwhile, every time I wear a suit that’s even slightly darted with a slimmer profile, I feel like I’m being jammed into a sausage casing. Aside from the fact that I hate the “wasp-waist” aesthetic. Different strokes, I suppose.
Banks has replaced/moved buttons for me, though, to fix the lapel break.
Jos A Bank typically charges for alterations, at least in Atlanta. I’ve never owned a crappier suit than the one I was forced to buy there for a wedding. Everything I’ve ever purchased there has been of terrible quality, and even worse style.
It’s either regional or a matter of taste since then. The suits I bought from Banks are far, far superior to anything I’ve bought at a department store, certainly – even Macy’s or Kaufmann’s. And I definitely would have remembered paying for alterations. =P
Formal but with accessories that still say “spring”…and it’s conservative which is good for a wedding 'cause you don’t want to look like you’re trying to outshine the bride.
What’s the difference between an Irish wedding and an Irish funeral?
One less drunk.
For all I think of the subject, get a current copy of GQ. And then realize that it will all change next month. They even have a Button of the Month section, for which button to leave fashionably UNbuttoned. Wedding, funeral, unless you attend an awful lot of those kinds of functions, Navy blue is still the best standby that will be useful for most other functions, as well, if and when they may come up.
If it’s THAT important, say like you’re part of the wedding party, probably better to rent a tux. Just as a guest, it’s not so important to wear exactly the right thing.
You can buy a cheap tux for less than $200 out the door. It’s nice to own one because then you come up with more reasons to own one, and it’s arguably cheaper than a three day rental.
That cheap? Sure has changed from the 80’s. The only bad thing about buying a suit, or tux, whatever the color, is that style changes year to year. Lapels get wider, then thinner, or thinner, then wider, whichever way it goes. On that level, I have suits that took over 30 years, but actually came back in style. And then there’s the buttons. Two or three? And the ones one the cuff? Those started off as two, then became three, then I noticed they were four, and it wouldn’t surprise me if there were five of them now. Give it 10, 20 more years, and you’ll need a suit with 37 buttons on the cuff.
Oh, and leave us not forget the incredible silliness of the 90’s when ties were MANDATED to be red. Those “power suits” and “power ties” reminded me of the John Birch Society of the fashion world. (The way you’re dressed is causing people to ask questions about you. Just a word to the wise.)
I agree, if a man is only going to have ONE suit, charcoal is best. Charcoal is softer than black, but more formal than navy. But, if you like the black suit, it is still versatile and still a good choice.
Yup, that cheap. Makes them nearly disposable. Luckily tuxedos are pretty easy to not have go out of style on you if you go classic with a notched satin lapel. That’s the thing about tuxes, they’re super cool because they’re almost archaic. That being said tie and shirt styles do change, right now it’s all about a regular black tie, plain shirt, any shoes but patent leather and no cummerbund. I got married 6 months ago and went pure classic with a tie-it-yourself bow tie and a tuxedo collared shirt, but that’s because I’ve always wanted to wear a real bow tie and it’s hard to do and not look like a dork normally. I also nabbed a white tux jacket off the clearance rack for those times I want to look like Indiana Jones.
I was a bit sad that I couldn’t find a midnight blue tuxedo though. They end up looking blacker than black ones do.
I only own a few suits, and they were all bought at Jos A Bank. Had them altered in-house, and they looked pretty good.
A couple of years later, I had lost a little weight. Nothing dramatic, but my suits didn’t fit quite so well. Based on some advice from a similar thread, I did some internet searching and found a well-regarded local tailor, and took the suits in for alterations.
Holy. Shit.
I looked gooooood.
Made all the difference in the world. It wasn’t precisely cheap, but if you wrap the cost of the tailor into a 3-for-1 sale at Jos A Bank, you’re getting a deal. I was thinking of getting another suit or two and asked my tailor his opinion as to the quality of the ones I already owned. He seemed to think they were perfectly serviceable, and maybe most importantly said they were easy to work with; no weird construction details, just a straightforward, somewhat plain, but perfectly adequate suit.
