[QUOTE=msmith537]
Both you and Ravenman are right. I think Brooks Brothers do look a tad more sophisticated and refined than the suits you would find at Mens Warehouse. They are also 2x as much. Usually I get a BB suit for interviews and clients and a number of MW suits for day to day around the office.
A couple things:
You want 100% wool. No polyester
Colors are, in order, solid blue, solid charcoal gray, striped, other colors - tan, brown, black.
Pleats = cuffs, no pleats = no cuffs
The suit should have some weight to it. It shouldn’t feel sheer or thin
The jacket should not appear glued together or cheap
Generally 2 or three buttons are in style. Bottom button is never buttoned
Make sure you get it tailored (although I bought three suits and the only thing that needed to be altered was the pant length)
European suits tend to have a slimmer fit:
http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/content.aspx?DepGrpCode=MEN&CntCode=menssuits&level1=Men&level2=menssuits
American:
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This comes closest to what I would advise also. Canadian manufacturer Jack Victor makes elegant, close-to-European-cut suits in nice 100% wool fabrics which are multi-seasonal, so if the place you shop has this brand, be sure to check it out. The linings are exceptionally nice with this brand, & you’ll love the way the suit feels on you. A Jack Victor suit will set you back $500-$900.
The trend right now is a 3-button jacket if you have the height to support one. Ideally you should be at or over 6 ft tall to wear this style of suit jacket as the lapels are not so deeply vee’d as a standard two button jacket, which will make you look “boxy” if you are too short. Flat front slacks are also “stylish” at the moment, & if you sport a stouter figure, these often look less “hippish” on you than pleats will look. Try a suit on with both types of slacks to see which looks & feels better on you. There are many manufacturers who offer “separates” in fine suitings as well, so if you are wider in the shoulders and VERY small in the hips, or especially the reverse, slacks can be ordered to match which will fit you more appropriately.
My best friend’s husband is a haberdasher (has in fact done ONLY that, in his whole work life) and owns a fine men’s store here in our town. I work for him around the holiday season, and have fitted many men in suits while he oversees—I would also encourage you to either find a tailor who works independently to fit your suit to you personally, or find a haberdasher who contracts with a good independent tailor, where both can fit you personally. Many men do not like to try on clothing when shopping, but I encourage you to do so, and do so extensively, when buying a suit. There are so many colors and styles available now that you want to know what looks and feels best on you.
You may want to wear a white dress shirt and some dress shoes when shopping for a suit so that you can see a more finished look as you try on suits as well. A good haberdasher will have dress shirts/shoes/belts/ties available for you to wear when assembling the right look, but this isn’t always the case. I am in the camp of those who believe a navy or a charcoal suit would be your best bet for basic color, but be sure you find one to suit your coloring (hair and skin!). If you are greying, or if you are blond, sometimes a charcoal suit is not flattering to you, depending upon the shade of charcoal offered.
Make sure when having the slacks tailored, if you carry a wallet in your back pocket, you DO have that in place at the fitting. This can make a noticeable difference in the length of your slacks hem on the “wallet leg”, if the tailor does not know this when making hem measurements. Also if you are built without a substantial rear end, as a lot of guys seem to be, have your tailor or haberdasher do a “scoop” in the rear of the slacks to define your backside more fully. When you are not wearing the suit jacket, the slacks will look as if they were literally made for your body this way, and can emphasize definition you might otherwise be lacking when wearing slacks. If you are investing in a nice suit, you want the fit to be as flattering as possible.
It’s some trouble, I know, to go to these lengths, but it will be worth it when you have a wonderful, well-fitting, nicely cut and lined suit tailored to your body which will last you for years.
–Beck