Not just Whack-a-Mole’s caveats, but anything besides the motor drawing current runs down the battery. If your meters run off the battery, and you are using you phone for GPS, and it is plugged into the bike’s battery, those will all draw. If the bike has a turn signal that runs off the battery, etc.
It would be nice if the meter that comes with your bike displays “remaining miles,” which will be just an estimate, but like with an electric car, you learn how many electric miles the bike discharges per actual miles when it’s doing something besides just assist pedaling.
My car, for example, discharges about .75 miles when the A/C is blasting on a 90 degree day, and even the windshield wipers take a little extra power. However, when I am using NOTHING but engine, and in econ mode, with regenerative braking, the car actually gets about 1.3 miles of power per mile driven on the highway, and 1.75 in the city.
I expect to get used to things like that on the bike as well.
Anyway, if the meter the bike comes with doesn’t display enough helpful information to make a good estimate in your head, you can probably get an aftermarket one that does.
To echo Whack-a-Mole, if the bike boasts a max pedal-assisted range of 40 miles, then the “lazy” range is probably 20, so you are fine.
Loctite will be fine, as long as you don’t use anything stronger than blue loctite.
Reflectors are nice, but you can always add reflective tape to the seat stays, or attach reflectors to any rack bolts on the frame. Might have to fashion your own bracket. But if you will often be riding in the dark, get a rear taillight.
I already have the blue (med, or, “remove with hand tools”) Loctite. It’s a staple around here.
I also already have a rear taillight that is red and blinks on my current, non-electric bike. Only dilemma is carrying a load in the dark, but I don’t imagine that happening a lot.
Rear reflectors are required here, and in the last few years bicycle requirements have been taken very seriously. It’s the flip part of policing the bike lanes vigorously. Cars driving in bike lanes can be ticketed, and there are now separate lights for bike lanes, so cars cannot turn in front of bike lanes, when the lane has a green light (conversely, bikes cannot proceed when cars have a turn light). And half a dozen more things being done to encourage biking in general.
I have a reflector/light which I have mounted to my rack with zip ties. My rack has a flat part on top and had a bracket that screwed into that and bent down for the reflector mount. The bracket broke and could not find a replacement so went with zip ties.
I googled “bike rack reflector” and there were some reddit threads on how to mount reflectors to rack that lacks a bracket. – maybe one would be useful.
Could you use something like this? (round to flat converter)
Depending on how bright it is, a blinking light can be disorientating in the dark or the apparent position can jump around. Use a steady(or a constantly lit pulse) light at night.
There are reflective vests, harnesses, arm/leg bands that can be utilized. Also, wheel/spoke reflectors and tires with reflective sidewalls.
Many of Schwalbe tires have reflective sidewalls(just an example).
The two smaller lights at the bottom I use at night, the main top light flashes by day, “buzzes” (the flash pattern is literally a visual buzzing) by night.
I never replied to this because I had never used Loctite on a bike, but the other day my friend used blue Loctite (that is, 243, not “red Loctite”) on a dodgy crank lock bolt that he refurbished, just in case.
It will not hurt to add reflectors to the wheels, spokes, and/or also some pimping LEDs that flash out colors/messages when spun, but having a rear light is even more important than having a front light. Don’t want to get creamed by a truck.
P.S. anybody have some info on the use case of REALLY fat tyres on e-bikes? The ones people put on that are at the very least as wide as a car tire. Versus the “normal” fat street tires, I suppose.
One advantage of tubeless tires in general is lower pressure—so maybe a smoother ride around the city, fewer punctures, etc. I can see that. I also have to assume that people mounting 9.5" tires on an electric bike/scooter are running more like a 2 kW motor to compensate for the extra weight.
I have started using Elmer’s glue as locktite for assembling such things. I started doing this working on my motorcycle (not for engine or wheel parts). Vibrations would loosen things like turn signal stalks, seat bolts, etc… I didn’t have any locktite (and I was concerned about removal), but I did have a bottle of Elmer’s. Stopped the self-loosening problem, comes apart with hand tools, and cleans up with hot soapy water.
I use it all the time now when assembling furniture and other household items. I surprised my wife using it on the knob of the lid to the frying pan. It is a clear glass lid with a bakelite handle that would always come unscrewed. A drop of Elmer’s, let it set, and it is now good and tight. It even survives the dishwasher.
I just joined the e-bike crowd, buying an e-trike (I have balance issues). For those interested, a MeetOne Breeze Pro. I was looking at it before this thread, but comments in this thread answered a lot of questions, provided a lot of background I was lacking and helped me decide.
FYI: There are apparently some really great sales on some e-scooters at Walmart lately. And the e-scooters have gotten pretty good reviews. For your purposes some might suffice and for these prices it is hard to go too far wrong. Of course, you need to research it to be sure but seems worth a look (I have no experience with those particular scooters).
I feel like it’s easier to put baskets on a “bicycle” to carry a couple bags of groceries than to carry groceries on a scooter. But maybe I’m wrong about that.
You are 100% correct on that. Panniers on a bike are great.
Some e-scooters, like the one below, have some cargo capacity but really not much. A bike has much more cargo utility (still not a whole lot but more…or you could even attach a cart to the back for more cargo with a bike):
Scooters generally have excellent storage under the seat if you are talking about Vespa style sit down scoots.
Most will have a top box too.
You are correct about the razor style low scooters but not the traditional sit down types which are very common around the world.
Some are full fledged motorcycles with superb storage and capable of touring which I have done and costing big money. My Burgman 650 Exec was $17k out the door. I put 60,000 km on it around the Eastern US and Canada including up to James Bay.
so it all depends on WHICH scooter you are talking about.
