My Yamaha XJ600 would run better if it had a new jet kit installed to match the Vance & Hines exhaust system. The kit is $65, but the labour involved is three hours at $70/hour. $285 for the job.
Do any SoCal Dopers know of a shop where the modifications could be done at less expense? I live in West L.A. and work in Orange, so I could either drop the bike off on a Saturday or before work.
I know this isn’t what you’re asking, but why not do it yourself?
My motorcycle maintenance has been limited to changing the oil, filter and lamps, changing sprockets and chains, and removing wheels and patching inner tubes. Since I no longer have access to a garage, no access to jacks and stands, my current bike has four carburettors instead of one, and I have limited time, it’s less trouble to just have it done.
I don’t mind paying to have it done, but $70/hour is a bit steep!
IMHO, re-jetting isn’t something you should undertake on your own - unless you own a dyno and the necessary gear to analyze the exhaust gases.
I’ve been on the sideline of two projects where weeks of fiddling around ended with both parties biting the bullet, going to a pro and paying him to get everything adjusted just so on a dynamometer. If you want the full power effect of your aftermarket exhaust, I’d not recommend fiddling with carburetion yourself - chances of getting it right are small, and you may actually end up with inferior performance.
65-70 bucks an hour is pretty much the going rate…maybe you can make buddies with one of the mechanics and he can do it on the side for you for a cheaper rate?
If the new exhaust system is significantly freer flowing than the old one then your engine will run lean and will probably get hot.
You would be best off getting in contact with Vance and Hines first and see if it is a direct replacement and wether or not it will need any adjustments to the carburation.
There is a very good chance it will not need rejetting, rather, just the mixture needing adjustment.
One indication of this is the condition of your spark plugs, which should be just slightly biscuit coloured.Blackened usually means either worn rings and valve guides, or too rich a fuel mixture or maybe the air filter needs replacing, whereas white deposits mean that either the the air filter is holed or the mixture is too weak, or fuel starvation.
You can make the adjustments yourself, with help from a manual but you might also need a set of vacuum gauges, which are not particularly expensive.
Main services cover balancing of the carbs and checking the emissions and making the necessary adjustments, I don’t think you really will need to go to the espense you are fearing, just the normal servicing costs.
I usually buy kits based on a specific exhaust configuration. Last set of Cobra pipes I installed for someone came with a recommendation for a certain jet size, depending on the pipes, number of baffles, etc.
I leave the legwork to them.
The V&H pipe is the one that’s “in the book” for my bike. The mechanic said, “You might want to think about a jet kit. It runs fine, but the kit will make it better.” Sounds like a sales job, but I seem to recall reading several years ago that a kit is recommended when switching to a different pipe configuration.
Oh, how I wish it would get hot! 
My Seca II has been cold-blooded from the start. Same with my ex-g/f’s, which she bought shortly after I got mine. Same with Colfire’s. I think it might be a Yamaha trait. My bike usually took about half a mile to warm up. Now it’s still “warming up” even when I reach the freeway. It “lopes” a bit at idle, even when it’s nice and toasty. When I road it yesterday it had been getting some of the morning sun, and it warmed up much more quickly.
I know that Japanese machines traditionally have been set up to run a little rich, and that better economy can be obtained by setting up the carbs, but the bikes over the last four years or so, especially with cats on are generally bang on.
If it is not getting hot you ain’t giving it enough hammer!
Before you get it set up, make sure you replace the air filter first.
I would reiterate, check with V&H first, you may save a lot of money, you can rejet on any exhaust system and get improvements, but it depends upon what you want.
Yamaha actually sets their mixtures too lean, according to the dealer I bought it from, in order to meet California’s strict emissions laws. That was sorted out quickly, but I wonder if the dealer I use now has been using the original setting? I’ll have to pull a plug and check its condition.
I don’t like to hammer it when I first start it up. I’ve always believed that hi revs are to be avoided until the engine warms up.
Got another question…
My front-left directional indicator is not working. The left-rear flashes rapidly. I had assumed it was a burned-out filament in the front lamp, so I went downstairs at lunch today, whipped out the ol’ Gerber tool, and replaced it. Surprisingly, the old lamp still had two intact filaments. And the indicator still did not work even with the new lamp.
Any suggestions?
Bad connection. Break out the old multimeter, remove the rear bulb and hunt it down.
Huh? Your ex-girlfriend had a hard time warming up as well?
Oh. 
Yeah, they’re coldblooded. My new battery helps a lot, though: it starts a lot better now.
Outside temperature is a huge factor, as is humidity. It starts and warms better when it’s humid, for some reason. What it STILL sucks at is the warm start (hint to mr LA: check your $1053-thread in MPSIMS), where it has trouble firing up. A lot of starting seems to “clear” it, after which it will run a very low idle (under 1,000 RPM). About a minute of that, and it’s fine. Another Yamaha trait?
Johnny, the indicator problem sounds like a grounding issue. My car had it a couple of months ago: the guy at the garage reattached a wire to the car’s frame, and the problem was gone. Try and check your manual for the grounding wires, and locate them on your bike. Compare left and right, and fix what’s wrong. Bear in mind that the ground might not actually be on the same side as the defective indicator!
I did jiggle the three wires coming from the indicator, but since I was in the parking lot in my work clothes I couldn’t really get into it. I’ll look for the ground wire.