Munich and Bavaria --- any tips?

Okay so… The soon-to-be-Mrs. and I are traveling to Munich and Bavaria in May for a week for the honeymon :):):):):slight_smile:

We already have the hotels booked… two nights in Munich, two nights in Fussen, one night in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, one on in Wurzburg, back to Munich and then back to the states.

We’re also going to be pretty flexible during the day… just because a hotel’s in a given town we may wander off that day… looking at Lake Constance and back to Fussen one night, Heidelberg for the day before crashing in Wurzburg, etc.

I’m looking for any suggestions, especially restaurants (though any tips on museums etc. would be appreciated too). Any suggestions for Munich for first “real” dinner as a couple? I’ve been reading up, there’s a restaurant at the top of the tower at Olympic Park, but most reviews say while the view is spectacular, the food is mebbe average. Some other reviews I read give rave reviews to sushi places. Sorry, but I’m not going to Bavaria for sushi :wink:

Go visit King Ludwig’s castle (Herrenchiemsee)at Lake Chiemsee. It’s not as impressive as Neuschwannstein, also in Bavaria, but worth seeing. It sits on an island in the Lake. Ludwig was obsessed with King Louis.

For food, it’s hard to go wrong with brats and wienerschniztel and bavarian beer. Munich is famous for its weisen.

Restaurants in Munich: how much do you want to spend? Two most famous and most expensive hotels/restaurants are “Bayerischer Hof” and “Vier Jahreszeiten”. Very expensive. There’s also the “Kaiserhof” at the Stachus.

If you want traditional Bavarian cuisine cooked by a star cook, Alfons Schuhbeck has a restaurant at the Platzl. (He also has a small shop selling his special spices nearby, that might make a good souvenir/ memory. Together with his cookbooks).
The Hofbräuhaus is of course most famous, but other Bräuhauses also have good beer.

If you want normal food for an affordable price, I’m not much of a fan of typically Bavarian cuisine, but prefer Italian. Since one of Munich’s many titles is “Italy’s most northern city”, pizza and similar have become part of typical Munich food.

Typical bavarian food: lots of meat, lots of sauces. Easily to do in bad quality, hard to do good, but a home-made potato salad is worlds removed from slop from the bucket. (Bavarian potatoe salad is made with oil and vinegar and broth, instead of mayonaise, and thus doesn’t spoil that quickly in hot weather).
A speciality I like are Schupfnudeln - noodles made from potato dough and fried in pan, usually with Sauerkraut.
Then there’s Reiberdatschi (small pancakes from sliced potatoes) fried in oil, eaten either sweet with apple sauce or with Sauerkraut.
In the Beergardens (weather permitting), you can eat besides the big Bretzn (soft, not hard) the Auszogne (drawn-out) - sweet dough dropped into frying oil and pulled apart. Or Steckerl-Fisch: fish roasted on a stick over a coal fire.

Special restaurants: at the Viktualienmarkt, there’s bux, a vegetarian buffet-style restaurant. Nearby is Prince Myschkin (named after the character in Dostoyieskies Idiot), an old established vegetarian restaurant (Though I haven’t tried it myself, and its’ more expensive).

A walk over the Viktualienmarkt, (food market) with its many exotic and specalised booths is quite interesting. There’s also (naturally :)) a small beer garden to drink amid the fruits.

Try all our bread variants, while you’re here - Germans are proud of having about 700 different breads. The oldest and (best) bakery in Munich is the Hofpfisterei - established in 13something, baking original sour dough peasant bread in wood-fired ovens and from organic flour.
Getting around and seeing things: Generally, I always recommend public transport over cars. It’s a hassle to drive in a foreign city, and you won’t be able to find parking spaces in the inner city, anyway. Either take a day pass (there’s a special tourist pass with discounts for sights).
Or rent a bike (e.g. at the main station, or the Call-a-bike everywhere) and ride around.
Take a guided tour with “Statt reisen” (Instead/city tours) - they offer to tell big history through little persons stories, and explore one aspect or quarter in depth.
There’s also guided bike tours available, a Beergarden tour, and a “red Munich” (though it’s hard to remember today, Munich was once very communist!) tour.
In the heart of the inner city - Marienplatz, Odeonsplatz - we also have bike rikschas around, so you can take a short trip sightseeing.
On weekends, there’s the München tram, a streetcar with a guided tour.

Museums: difficult to recommend, because there are so many! For Art, we have the three Pinakotheken, of course, plus half a dozen special art museums. Then there’s the Deutsche Museum, for technical and natural science interested ones. (It started over a 100 years ago with the then-new concept of experimenting, touching and doing things - I have heard the British Musuem is similar. The simulated underground mine alone is huge. And don’t miss the museum shop!)
Or the International Youth book library with its Michael Ende exhibition, if you liked Momo or the Unendliche Geschichte (the good books, not the bad movie).
There’s the Glypothek and Antikensammlung if you’re interested in greek and roman art, and the Staatliche Sammlung Ägyptischer Kunst for old egypt.
Or for fun the Karl Valentin Musäum at the Isartor - he was a famous comedian in the 1920s. There’s a cafe at the top where you have a nice view. It’s very nice.

If the weather is nice, you could simply pack some picknick stuff and go off into the Englischer Garten (a huge park) for a romantic picknick together, or walk along the Isar river (it flows through the city itself, but has been re-natured, so it looks very natural).
You could take the S-Bahn to the South and take a boat on the Starnberger See (Lake) or take a small hike to Kloster (Monastery) Andechs, both renowned for being a holy place for pilgrimages and an early place of christianity, but also for brewing beer. Carl Orff, the composer of the Carmina Burana, is buried there.

Until 7th of May, there’s the Frühlingsfest at the Theresienwies, the little brother of the Oktoberfest. The Auer Dult starts tomorrow and ends on the 1st of May weekend, so you probably won’t get to see that.

At the Marienplatz, there’s both the tourist information and the citizens information. You can also start exploring by climbing the tower of Alter Peter (Old Peter), a church nearby, for a good view. Or the Rathaus (town hall) tower. Close by is the Frauenkirche (Church of our lady), which is THE symbol of Munich.

Are you going to see the Musical about gay crazy King Ludwig II in Füssen?

Go to the hofbrauhaus in Munich. It’s a bit touristy, but it’s a fun place to throw back a few beers.

Also, the Kempinski hotel at the airport in Munich is nice, and they have a great restaurant. Plus the staff is impeccable.

This past summer we stumbled across a restaurant near Marienplatz with really good Beech roasted pork knuckle. Crispy skin with meat that just melted in your mouth. I think the name of the place is somthing like Haxnbauer (not sure of spelling).

If you love good, savory roast meat, I think you’ll like this place. You’ll definitely feel like you are in Bavaria. :slight_smile:

Constanze had a lot of good recommendations as far as sightseeing. As far as good restaurants popular with the locals, I have a couple of recommendations:

Hacker-Pschorr brewery. Don’t remember exactly where it is. Check Rick Steves’ Germany guidebook or Google maps
Augustiner Brewery near the Hauptbanhoff (central train station). The cellar is neat to check out, but damn hot. Grab a seat outside instead.

Don’t know where you’re from, but as an American, I kept thinking that a host would be along to seat me at the various beer gardens. Not gonna happen; just find a seat you like and grab it. Someone will notice you’re not drinking beer and come over to serve you.

Ah Munich…Beer,beeeeeer!

awesome, thanks all and keep it coming if you’d like.

A bierhaus is DEFINITELY going to be in the mix. Figure you haven’t really been to Bavaria if you haven’t hit a beerhall at least once, right?

As for the restaurant, money’s not a big concern for one very nice dinner. Granted I don’t want to spend $1000 a plate for three bites of food, but short of that “doing it up right” for some local fare is fine for a special occasion :slight_smile:

That was a great write up for Munich! Thanks!

What is the Auer Dult? Maybe I can stop by.

  • Shibb
    in Kirchheim u/ Teck again

PS there is also a Frühlingsfest in Stuttgart right now. It’s funny, I don’t recall hearing about these before when we lived up near FFM.

The Auer Dultis an old established market, (old language: Dult) originally for pots and household stuff, now with a small entertainment stuff for kids (scooter, rifle shooting, carussel) thrown in, and several tasty food booths.
It’s held in the Au, the region of Munich that’s close to the river - literally Flood plain - three times a year for one week: for May 1st; around Johannis (24th of June, opposite Christmas); and in the end of October (around my birthday :))

Both the May and October Dult usually suffer from cold weather and are thus not as much fun as the Summer one (similar to the Frühlingsfest, which mostly catches the cold and rainy side of April, not the sunny warm time). Although there’s been more than one time I was on the Dult in Summer with only t-shirt and shorts, and then a summer thunderstorm broke, it rained buckets, and I was soaking wet and freezing. Not much fun.

Still if you are around, you might want to see it. Weekends it’s full to burst, though, so if you don’t like masses of people go during the week when people are at work.
Besides hand-made pottery, there are also book-sellers and Antique dealers.

This is the Frühlingsfest(spring festival) - although, sorry to say, I mixed up the weeks, it ends on May 3rd, too (runs two weeks, started one week ago).

I didn’t know Stuttgart has a Frühlingsfest, too. They only mention the Wasn in the main news.

Okay, after the off-the-cuff tipps, now for the second part.

Besides the Hofbräuhaus and Schuhbeck at the Platzl, there’s also the Weisses Bräurössl in the Tal (valley) the road that connects the Marienplatz (main square) with the Isartor (city gate). It’s geared towards masses of tourists but serves traditional food.

In order to help you understand the menu, and what I find interesting besides the boring standard fare of pig, Knödel and Sauerkraut, some lesser-known specialities:

Saures Lüngerl is lung from a calf made in an acid way (with vinegar).
Semmelknödelare a speciality of Bavaria (while Knödel generally are a German traditonal dish) are made from left-over rolls (Semmeln) with spices, boiled in water. They can be eaten not only as side dish, but also as Gebratene Semmelknödeln. for this, they are sliced and browned in a pan, together with scrambled eggs, or mushroom sauce (Champingnon).
Käsespatzn(Spatzen with cheese) are a swabian dish: wet noodle dough is cut into the boiling water to form the spätzle, then overbaked with cheese. In traditional Gaststätten, they often serve this in a small iron pan on a wooden board, and with roasted onions on top. It’s very filling!
A Brotzeitor Jause (snack) in a good Gaststätte is served on a wooden plate/board: peasant bread with several kinds of ham and sausage (cold), sometimes gherkins.
Ah, Obazda(smashed), another speciality for the Beergarden! Despite its appearance, it hasn’t been eaten before :slight_smile: it’s camembert or similar soft cheese smashed with red pepper (hence the colour) and spices. Tastes good.
While we are at it - tatar(raw meat) takes a lot of trust (because it must fresh otherwise you risk spoiled meat) and maybe courage, but it tastes good. Ideally, a butcher you trust grates the meat in front of your eyes, you take it home, mix it and serve immediatly. You can also try at a Restaurant, if you dare.
Another beer garden food: Radi(raphanus - what a weird name). It’s washed, peeled and cut into thin slices, or rather, an uneding spiral, which is a highly valued art if done right. Every couple of slices, you salt it, and then you eat the whole thing.

The foods I mentioned yesterday: Auszogene
Schupfnudeln
Steckerlfisch
Reiberdatschi
Knödel(Dumplings) in general
The Hofpfistereibakery - with an overview of their breadvariants.

Here’s a list of all Beergardens.

A special thing about Munich Beergardens: because of a law to stop competition against established restaurants, real Beergardens don’t serve hot food, they only sell beer. This is a good idea because it means families and people with low income can make their own picnic at home and go to the beergarden buying only the drinks. For those who didn’t make their own picnic, you can buy some foods, like Obatzer, Radi, Auszogene, Brezn, potatoe salad and a few warm dishes like Steckerlfish, Grillhendl(roasted chicken) and some roasted pig stuff. But it’s not a real menu from a restaurant.
However, some beergardens have a different section (with tablecloths on the table and waitresses*) where they joined with real restaurants, and serve real menus there. For example Grosshesseloheis one. You get there by S-Bahn, and sit on the embankment above the Isar in the middle of a forest. Very nice. Afterwards or before, you can walk back along the Isar river - the right side leads to the streetcar, the left side to the S-Bahn. Or ride a bike.

*Strainger already mentioned not being shown a seat - but that’s not only for beergardens, it’s not done in almost all restaurants in Germany. You go inside and sit down yourself at an empty table, unless there’s a sign “Reserviert” (reserved) on it.
But in most beergardens, there’s self-service - you go to the big counters and get beer and food yourself.
A beer hall inside will usually have waiters, but might also have a self-service section. Look either in the menu or at signs on the walls/on posts. Mit Bedienung/ hier/es wird bedient = with service; Selbstbedienung = self service

Also nice to see if the weather is warm: the zoo Tierpark Hellabrunn. It follows a modern principle of showing the animals in natural habitats, with as little fences as possible.
The Westpark (take the U6 subway to station Westpark) is left over from the IGA (International garden exhibition) in the mid-80s. The built a typical alpine hut, a japanese garden (Munich is partnered with Sapporo, among other cities), a Thai temple and many other things.
Left over from the last BUGA (federal garden exhibition) is the park at Riem (take the subway to Messestadt Riem, I think West).
The current BUGA just started in Schwerin, but that’s East Germany.
There’s also the NymphenburgerSchloss (castle) in the north (take a streetcar from Sendlinger Tor). It has not only wonderfully decorated rooms inside (in case it rains), but also interesting gardens outside: the front is top french-style garden, the back is top-style English park (in the evening you can see deer - the Bambi-animals eating grass.)
There’s a museum for Nature and Man (aimed mostly but not only at children) in one wing, a botanic garden to look at flowers and the Porzellanmanufaktur(porcelain production) there. (If you want “White gold” Souvenirs.)

If you do go into the Englischer Garten, but don’t want to see naked people, stay north of the very tip at the Haus der Kunst. Most people (naked and clothed) are between Haus der Kunst and Chinesischer Turm/Hirschau, in the south part. The north part, the Hirschau, is more quieter and thus better if you want to stay alone.
Though the South part has more interesting sights, with the japanese tea house, the Monopteros and the beergarden at the Chinesischer Turm (chinese tower). There are also horse-drawn buggies at the Turm to take rides.

If you want to see real mountains (excepting the Rockies), the closest and easiest from Munich is to take the BOB (Bayerische Oberlandbahn, upper bavarian train) hourly from the main station (Hauptbahnhof) to Lenggries, take a short walk to the Brauneckbahnand ride the cable car to the top of the Brauneck mountain. Dress warm, it’s 1 600 meters high. Also, the cable car is being serviced till 8th of May, though they open it for the May 1st weekend. (The revision is always done between winter and summer season).
Generally, though, May is not yet the time for mountaineering - there’s still too much snow lying around (Brauneck still had skiing on Easter, and the ski tours off the piste is done by alpinists until pentecoast). June, July, August and maybe September are the mountaineering months. You can walk in the flats no problem though.
And whenever you go in the Alps, even with cable car, please obey the safety rules! = sturdy real shoes, warm clothes including anorack, map, knowledge. The Bergwacht (Mountain rescue) has to rescue enough idiots with high-heeled shoes, sandals or t-shirts already.
If you want higher, you go to Garmisch-Partenkirchen to go to the Zugspitze, the highest German mountain, just shy of 3 000 meters. Below zero, so dress very warm. It has a weather observatory with lots of ugly concrete.

Trivia: on most Alp mountain tops, you will find a Gipfelkreuz(cross), often with a metal box that contains the Gipfelbuch (summit book). Real alpinists who hiked up there instead of taking the cable car then write their names, the date and maybe a few words in there.

I’m prejudiced in that regard, since I don’t like beer. I do enjoy going to the beer garden outside in the summer, and drinking Apfelschorle(apple juice mixed with mineral water, very refreshing). But I don’t like the beer halls or the full tourist restaurants!

Auer Dult in english.

  • Spargel * = White Aspargus. Yes, it’s considered a delicacy, not a veggie. Usually eaten cooked with Sause Hollandaise and Ham, although the green unpeeled asparagus the french like to eat has been making tentatives forays. For Bavarians, the top quality is either Schrobenhausen or Avensberg.

Now, what to take? I recommend strongly to pack warm clothes in addition to spring things - a few weeks ago it was sunny and close to 20 C, but now it’s dropped to below 10 and rain. Until the Eisheiligen(icy saints) on 13-15th of May ground frost is possible. (Of course, the Schafskälte= sheepsfrost strikes often in the middle of June!) Besides fine dresses for the good occasions, I recommend good walking shoes for all the sightseeing, that’s tiring.

In case it’s your first time in Germany/ Europe: there are some old threads about:
ATMs only taking 4 digit PINs (and tell your bank, otherwise they think your card has been stolen if you charge overseas)
what to do with mobiles abroad? (depends on the provider, or use call shops here)
How to charge electronics with the 110/220 volt problem ? (most modern appliances should have a little switch to convert, but check your manual, your manufacturer etc. and don’t forget the plug shape adapter, though you can also buy it in travel shops here).

General german/Bavarian cultural knowledge, across the whole field (though it’s not easy to remember what outsider will find unnatural about your own culture!)

  • the Euro is colour-coded and comes in different sizes. That’s to make counterfeiting more difficult, and handling easier. It does not make it funny money or Monopoly money, people get offended if you say this loudly (or think you are stupid). The current exchange rate is of course against you, with the dollar still being lower then the Euro, and Germany is expensive anyway, in terms of cost of living. And Munich is a very expensive city. There’s no way around it, so prepare mentally before and suck it up.

  • Germans generally, and Bavarians especially, aren’t necessarily in a surly, grouchy, bad mood. They are in a neutral mood if they don’t smile. They are in a bad mood if they start yelling, cursing and punching. So if you sit in the subway and everybody looks stony-faced to you, it’s normal. No, we don’t want to have a conversation with strangers. Stop bothering us. (In a beer hall it’s different). Even Germans who move to Munich often comment on how difficult it is here to meet people and make friends because people are so closed up.
    If you look at a stranger and smile, that person won’t think you are simply polite. They think you are being friendly or want to flirt with them, which will cause confusion.
    If somebody is helping or serving you, don’t expect smiles. Bavarians don’t smile. And customers expect and value competent service over any smile. You hear that people are being polite or not by tone of voice (even in a foreign language). If you are too nice to strangers, people won’t think you want to make aquanintances, they will wonder if you want to sell them something or have darker motives. We aren’t friendly, Bavarians want to be left alone (Mei Ruah wui I hoam - I want to have my peace). We want real friendships, not shallow aquaintances, and don’t expect friendships in a couple of days from strangers.

-Restaurants: Eating out is an experience, so don’t rush. As already said, you seat yourself. Also, waiting is a proper profession, that is, people learn it for three years and choose it, and are proud, so treat them not like dumb college kids earning minimum wage.
No free soda drinks in Restaurants! And no tap water, either. Generally, no ice cubes in drinks, unless it’s McDonalds. Water is mineral water, not tap water. Say if you want with or without CO2: mit Kohlensäure (with) or ohne / stilles Wasser (quiet water). Some restaurants have expensive mineral water like Evian because they think their customers will think that classy. Sometimes they have two brands, a normal one and an expensive one. Normal restaurants have a normal mineral water.
Nobody will bring the bill the moment you lay down the fork. Contrary, if you sit and chat with your wife for half an hour after the plates are cleared away, then order another softdrink, then a dessert, then a coffe, nobody will say anyhting or raise an eyebrow. You signal for the bill with a finger and say “Die Rechnung bitte” (Bill please). A normal service charge is already included (usually says so on the Menu) but it’s customary to round up to the next 5 or 10 number (which usually comes out to 10%). The more money you pay, the better service you expect, and also more tip is expected - a reporter interviewed a waiter who said “If dear old granny drinks one beer and counts each dime because it’s all she can afford, I don’t even want a tip; but if a big party spends several hundreds of money, pays with a credit card and gives a tip of 10 Marks, I feel angry”.

  • If you stand on the street with a map in your hand and look lost, don’t expect people to help you. They will assume you are trying to find your own way with the map. If you need help, ** Ask**.
    Entschuldigen Sie bitte = please excuse me, could you

  • language: almost all people will have had at least a couple of years english in school. But speak slowly. No, slower. No exaggerate accent (if you can avoid it), no slang. No treating people dumb - it’s just lack of experience with listening to fast talking (E.g. I had 3 years - 5th till 8th form of english, when my teacher brought a tape with original British speakers: a radio announcer, an interview with an Oxford guy, and some Cockney. I could barely make out one word in 20 or less, because the talking speed was 2 or 3 times faster than my teacher. I could understand written English far, far better at that time. Still today - it’s harder to listen to movies than read a book.)
    A couple key phrases: Grüss Gott = Good day (literally: be greeted with god)
    Auf Wiedersehen/Wiederschaun = Good bye
    Danke sehr = Thank you
    Bitte schön = You’re welcome, no problem
    Bitte sehr = Please

It’s important to remember that Germans are more formal - our language has the polite Sie- form of adress, and the informal Du- form. Calling people by first name immediatly is impolite, unless in special circumstances (students, alpinists). First name + Du, Last name + Sie + Herr/Frau.
BTW, there’s no distinction any longer between that Mrs/Miss/Ms. Stuff. An adult female (over 18 officially) is **Frau **Schmidt (Smith) regardless of marriage status, a young girl is **Fräulein **(Miss). And for some reason waitresses are Fräuleins (Miss). The old breed of spinsters being proud of being Fräuleins has died out or hides from normal life. With teenagers, where you have no idea if they are 14 or 19 years old, addressing them politly as Sie + Frau/Herr might flatter them. Or might make them angry at what you want from them, if you are some stuffy old timer? (Who knows with teenagers?)

  • Drinking in public: okay. No need for brown paper bags. The MVV (public transport) recently announced that it’s forbidden to drink in the subway, but not to transport bottles, or to buy alcohol in kiosks in the subway … we’ll see how that plays out, I think it’s beyond stupid. (Yes, drunks who throw up in the subway stations or bother passengers are a problem. But the police definitely doesn’t want thousands of drunks every Friday and Saturday night and each festival taking the car. The solution would be to have more cops to take care of the drunks. Ah well, idiotic bureaucrats, nothing new).

  • But Germans take polluting and littering very seriously. Throw garbage on the ground, or seperate your garbage incorrectly (paper, glas, compost, aluminium, other), and people will lecture you and call you a pig. So don’t waste energy, leave the engine of a car running empty etc.

  • No need to wear Canadian flags on your luggage because people are pissed off at Bush and the Iraq war - with Obama, the US has turned over a new leaf and you get a huge confidence discount for making a positive change. If you say you are a die-hard Republican who loves Bush, you’ll still get an earful, though.
    Don’t say that the US is bigger, better etc. (even if you happen to believe it). People will not believe it, it will prevent you from learning interesting differences, and people will think you’re another arrogant stupid US tourist. You don’t need to exaggerate either about how beautiful Bavaria is (the nature is wonderful, but we have our problems, too!). If you get into serious discussions (not in the beergarden, only idiots talk at the Stammtisch (the term Stammtischpolitik is a negative term for simple-minded politic discussion by idiots without any knowledge)), but in another context, people will take the discussion seriously.
    One thing that bugs many Germans about Americans in discussion is the tendency to be upbeat and optimistic in an “we can do that somehow, the problem isn’t really serious” way. To Germans, it appears childish and simplyifing, that you don’t understand the whole problem, or you would know how serious it is and why it’s difficult to solve. We also dislike one-shot magical solutions, because we know multi-side approaches work best in real life. And we don’t expect 100% success solutions.
    We also have a strong tendency to not pat ourselves on the shoulders for how great we are no matter what we have just accomplished, but to look instead at all the other problems still unsolved, or how we can improve the good solution into a better one.
    We also detest flag-waving and hurrah-patriotism of any kind, and don’t worship the military.

  • If you want to chat with people, talk soccer. Almost every male is interested in soccer, hardly anybody cares about American football. Runner-up sports are Volleyball, Handball, Basketball, ice hockey and random interest sports. All the german leagues of course.

For Munich, we have two teams: Bayern München, which wins some cup or plate almost every year (okay, probably not this year, but then next year or the year before). They have highly paid, good players, and everybody else hates them as arrogant rich bastards. Their fans love them because they keep winning.
And the 60er/ Löwen = 1860 München, Lions, who are in 2nd league and the charming loosers with a handful of diehard fans who adore them.

BTW, clubs belong to their members, not to one wealthy guy. They also “belong” into a certain city, which they bear in their name. The manager and the coach and the rest are elected by the members (and then buy and train the players). So one guy buying a club and moving it to Albuqerque is ridiculous and impossible to think of.

  • Don’t insult cops - not because they will beat you up, but because it carries a fine (and they understand English - recently, I read that a court ruled a teenager shouting the abbreviation “ACAB” = All cops are bastards while pointing at a german cop had insulted the cop and was fined. I didn’t even know what that meant.)
    Showing the bird - pointing your forefinger at your temple to mean “you’re an idiot” - is also an insult, like the middle finger.

The english/International edition of the Spiegel (a respected weekly magazine with critical, serious reporting) started a survival guidefor Germany back at the world cup; the articles are funny and interesting to read and not much out of date.

General:

  • Big stores and expensive restaurants take credit cards and EC-cards always; smaller shops and small restaurants will usually have a minimum amount before they take any cards. (Because they have to pay service charges, of course). So carry enough cash.

What to know about Munich especially:

  • Every native calls it the “Stachus”, the tourists think its Karlsplatz because of the maps. (The name comes from a ruler, Stachus from the pub-owner Eustachius.)

In case you want to know the bad words in German, too (since you said you’re on your honeymoon, you don’t need the most common phrases: I love you- your house or my house?)
**Arschloch - asshole **(offensiv)
**Fick dich doch (selbst ins Knie) - go fuck yourself (in your knee) **(offensiv)
**Rutsch mir den Buckel runter - bugger off, leave me alone **(milder)
**Blödmann - idiot **(mild)
Sackerzement, verflixt und zugenäht, Himmisagerment, Deifi … = damnation, hell, shit, (not directed at you, but at that blasted … thing that’s … fucked up)

The time it took me to write the posts, I have forgotten the rest of what I wanted to say… sigh. Bad memory.

Don’t expect to see masses of natives wearing Dirndl-dresses and Lederhosen (leather pants) in the streets. Some oldtimers in the country belong to Trachtenverein(traditional clothes clubs) and thus wear them, and lots of city people buy the new fashion around Oktoberfest time, but during daily life, Munichians aren’t Bavarians, but city folks.

Eating: Rotkohl (Red cabbage) is an interesting recipe, because one half of Germany eats it prepared blue (Blaukraut) and the other half red (Rotkohl). Bavarians sometimes call it Blaukraut even when it’s served red.

A new law passed recently means that in normal restaurants (Gaststätten) and pubs (Kneipen) smoking is forbidden, unless you go outside. People are expected to know this, so not everybody has put up signs. However, while non-smokers gladly enjoy that their clothes no longer smell like an ashtray after an evening out, and that the air is easier to breathe, and the throat less sore, the die-hard addicts now have formed their own clubs (with nominal memberships) where they can smoke again in a loophole. So, depending whether you want a smoke-free atmosphere or to light up, look carefully at the door signs of small restaurants and pubs.

This point in this articleabout the difference in politeness/honesty in conversation is important to remember:

Constanze, and my translation book, mentioned saying “Die Rechnung” to ask for the bill, though when I visited Munich (and Switzerland and Salzburg) I was told to say, “Zahlen, bitte” to request the bill. I was (and am) somewhat confused, but I think “Zahlen , bitte” would be for less formal establishments and “Die Rechnung, bitte” is for more formal establishments. Would this be correct, constanze?

Other stuff:

Beer:
“Ein Mass” gets you a liter of beer.
“Dunkles” is a dark beer.

Communicating:
Don’t know if you know how to read German, but it’d be a good idea to learn. I was able to order food, buy tickets etc. by learning a few basic words and then reading the signs and menus. Bring a phrase book with you.

I found people were generally more congenial if I at least tried to speak German rather than English (I only spoke English when I was afraid of holding up a line, but eventually figured out I was better served by speaking German regardless).

The German words for “right” and “left,” “recht” and “links,” begin with ‘R’ and ‘L’. Whoo-hoo! That’s handy.

Getting around:
Purchase the partner (IIRC) passes at the subway (U-bahn) stations. Even though the machine is labelled in German, the button for the partner pass is easy to find. You can get passes for multiple days, IIRC. These are good for both the U-bahn AND the surface busses. I had a much easier time finding maps for the U-bahn than the surface busses, but seek out the surface bus map. They go places the U-bahn doesn’t.

The Marienplatz has a large station where you can take care of many things, but it’s not the main station where they have the tourist info centers, train services and all that. That would be the Hauptbanhof. Took me a while to figure that out.

Forgot to add, bring a reusable grocery bag or a tote bag. They do have plastic bags in some (most?) places, but you’ll be charged extra for it. Plus, you can use the tote bag for souvenir overflow.

“Die Rechnung, bitte” is asking for the check.
“(be)Zahlen, bitte” is asking to pay.

Either way, if you don’t ask you won’t get it, so you’ll wait and think they’re ignoring you. We went to a nice french restaurant here - maybe first time I’ve seen a french restaurant in Germany, although I’m sure others exist - and the nice server asked us did we really want to pay or did we want to stay longer. We’d already been there two hours and my colleagues were eager to go. The place turned out to be empty when we left, but she was willing to let us hang out as long as wanted, even though we’d already finished dessert, since that would be the polite thing to do.

Rechnung = calculation, bill, invoice - think “reckoning”. Zahlen is to count, Bezahlen is to pay. Either will work. (die) Quittung is a receipt. It also works to sort of write in the air, like you would to signal the server for a check in the US.

Shiboleth already covered this mostly. Personally, I use both, but would think of “Die Rechnung, bitte” (Bill please) as more polite than the curt “Zahlen bitte” or even, shorter “zahlen!” (I want to pay), regardless of how formal the establishment is.

The different levels of formality are between (excepting fast food places like McDonalds etc, which don’t count as real Restaurants) Kneipen/Gaststätten, which tend to be like pubs, dark, low-budget, often (not always, but mostly) low food quality, no effort at nice presentation, but a big glob on your plate, that kind of thing, and grumpy waitresses; and on the other hand, normal restaurants, including low-budget, but trying hard mom-and-pop Italian restaurants. They usually, but not always have table-cloths, and the waiters try to be nice.
If the waitress is the grumpy kind, it’s kind of okay to retort similarly brusque, but if the waiter is nice, you’re expected to be polite, too.

The easy thing about German is that you speak as you write and vice versa (but please speak clearly :)) - as long as you know the pronounciation rules, which are a bit different from English.
SCH = SH, like show (so schule is said differently than school)
I = EE, never like I! (English “I” is written ai in german)
IE = is a lengthened “I”, so = EE
CH = like the scottish loch, I have heard; there is no equivalent sound in English. It’s soft and round, not hard like K!
Umlauts like ö, ü, ä are also written like oe, ue, ae and are a rounded version of o, u, a
O = like OH, not like wow (that sound is “au” in german, and means ouch.)
U = like oo, or you.
E = EH, similar to man.
A = AH or AW, not like hat (that would “ä” in german)
Y = similar to ü, not why difficult to describe online.
Maybe you could also listen to the Wikipedia sound files or similar.

Ah, the munich traffic system. That’s an article in itself. There are four types of transportation: S-Bahn (which means fast trains - cover the area around Munich)
U-Bahn = subways (underground)
Tram = streetcar (short from Strassenbahn)
Bus (those are seperated into several kinds like Metro which come every 10 min. and connect important points, and outside lines, that come less often. They are distinguished by their numers - two and three digits).
As for ticket types, there are two basic types (leaving out the monthly cards for people who live there):
Streifenkarten = stripe cards and single tickets. Those are good for one trip (though with several types combined, e.g. take the Bus to the U-Bahn, drive a few stations, then take the Tram, all with one ticket or two stripes)
and day pass which allow you to drive around in all directions all day long.
The day passes come in 1 and 3 days and in a tourist variant with discounts for some sights. They also come single and with partner, and for inner zone (Innenstadt) outer zone (Außenraum). and whole zone (gesamtraum).
If you look at the tariff information at a station, it’s at first confusing. The important thing for you is simply the colour - each zone is a different colour: white the inner zone = the old city with the normal tourist sights; then green, yellow and red as the three outer zones So you think about how many zones you will go through during the day and decide if you need inner zone or Gesamtraum. Or if you know beforehand you will only drive into the city and walk the rest of the day, you simply take a 1-Zonen-Fahrkarte in the morning, and another one back in the evening.
(Depends also where your hotel is)
If you want to be on the safe side, you simply buy a Partner Tageskarte Gesamtraum (day ticket whole area) in the morning, stamp it and don’t have to worry about anything anymore, but you might spend too much money you don’t need, so if you’re cost-conscious you calculate before.
DON’T FORGET TO STAMP YOUR TICKET at the blue Entwerter (stamp boxes) unless you buy it inside the tram/bus - those are already stamped.
You can buy the tickets not only in the stations, but also in the Kiosks. Look for the blue MVV-logo, or the K-logo (ticket-sale). IMPORTANT: you can buy the small tickets in the bus and tram itself, the larger tickets from the machines in the stations, but no tickets inside the U- and S-bahn.

This is the site of the MVV (public transport system), partly in English. You can find the tariff plan with all zones and also the S- and U-Bahn plan and the whole system with buses and trams. There’s also a street plan of the city overlaid with the lines, very handy. If you look at it a bit beforehand, it might be less confusing once you’re here.

Actually, it’s a bit more complicated than that. If you look at the rail map (PDF, large!) there is more than one center. To change from the U3/U6 line to the S-Bahn, you switch at Marienplatz. To change between U3/U6 and U4/5, you switch at Odeonsplatz. To change between U3/6 and U1/2, you switch at Sendlinger Tor. (To change between S-Bahn and U1/2 you switch Hauptbahnhof, between S-Bahn and U4/5 either Hauptbahnhof or Stachus= Karlsplatz)
Hauptbahnhof (main station), where many tourists arrive with the train, has a special english language tourist information, and information offices from MVV and S-Bahn.
Marienplatz, the central town square on the surface, has a special customer serivce center of the MVV, where you can get information. In either places, you might grab the small useful brochures: there’s one Sehenswürdigkeiten, which lists tourist sights with Tram and Bus; and small-size time-tables for each line.

If you fly into Munich, best take the S-Bahn, either S8 or S1, from the airport into the city and then change as appropriate to get to your hotel. If you arrive by train from another city, take the S-Bahn or U1/2 or Tram or Bus from the Hauptbahnhof.