I grew up in Brighton Beach. The Russian restaurants I am thinking of are those there. Brighton Beach is very accessible by subway. The entire area is basically right under the B and Q train lines. Take the B or the Q train to the Brighton Beach subway stop. This takes about 45 minutes or so from Manhattan. It’s the end of the line for the B train and nearly the end of the line for the Q train.
Once there, you can walk down from the subway platform and explore one of the most interesting areas of NYC, at least in my opinion as a native. A few blocks down to your left you’ll have a very nicely kept boardwalk with a view of the Atlantic. It gets a bit cold by October but you’ll still see many people strolling on the boardwalk. The walk goes on for a few miles into Coney Island.
I like several Russian restaurants in the area. My favorite is probably Primoski. The vegetable platter appetizer is a feast of things you’ve probably never tasted before. If you’re only going for one item to try first, try the stuffed eggplant with walnuts. The smoked fish are also excellent, a sort of Russian, Georgian and Jewish mix of spices applied to fish to create a really nice version of lox. Most of the hot appetizers are also really good – classic Russian potato dishes with lots of dill. For a main course, I highly recommend the shish kabob or the chicken kiev. You must also sample the thick, buttery lavash. I’ve never seen this bread anywhere else.
The rest of Brighton Beach is filled with all sorts of fruit markets and places selling Russian chocolates and other Russian cultural items. Don’t miss the hot pirozhki . They’re little Russian donut-ish things that are sold with filings like meat and cabbage.
If you want Russian chocolates, smoked meats and other dishes to take home, try Taste of Russia, Gastronom Arkadia or Brighton Bazaar. Basically you’ll find thick rye bread of all kinds, picked everything (the locals love their pickles!), various stuffed dumplings, smoked meats of every possible permutation with dill, salads with dill from eggplant and red pepper, smoked fish, potatoes of course with dill, chicken soup dripping with dill and then chocolate covered everything. The motto is either cover it with dill or dip it in chocolate here. Oh and fancy pastries and Russian tea and coffee.
It’s a sort of mélange of Russian, Jewish, Ukrainian cuisine with a splash of middle east throw in for good measure. Get off the subway and look around. You’ll find about ten blocks of Little Odessa there and then right behind the NYC Aquarium and what’s left of Coney Island.
It’s a strange place to grow up but there are worse things than having an ocean for your backyard and hot dilled potatoes for an afternoon snack.