Note to self: interior studs may not be 16" on center

So I’m putting up a shelf in my living room (it is for my front projector). So I find a stud near the center of the room (there was an outlet so I know where the stud is). I measure 16 inches form that and drill a hole – uh oh no wood just drywall. I try 24inches (seem to recall that is not uncommon in interior walls) - nada. I try a few inches on either side of these - nothing. Finally I try 32 inches and find a stud.
My shelf is only 24inches wide (and I really only need 14 inches) Of course I discover this 5 minutes before the local hardware store is closed.

Since I only need to support ~8 pounds, I will get some drywall anchors rather than a longer shelf.

Brian

That’s rather strange. 12, 16, 19.5, and 24 are the standard spacings I’ve seen in building construction. It would be interesting to see what you find when scanning the wall with a stud sensor.

I thought no house was complete without a stud sensor. :wink: Then again, I helped my father (and his father) build his current house, so we know exactly where the studs are. Come to think of it, though, I don’t recall the spacing, nor any of the finer details, for that matter. I’d look at the blueprints, but I’m too lazy.

Was a previous owner of the house a less than accurate do-it-yourselfer? I’ve seen plenty of walls that were thrown up by people that had no right to own a hammer, and are absolute horrors internally. Probably the best at being worst was the one where someone was insanely lazy, and rather than trim the 2x4, they just wedged it in diagonally.

For the OP - is there an intersecting wall on the other side of the wall where you’re putting the shelf? I’ve run across instances where there’s two studs at 32" and two somewhere in between, one of which is the other wall.

Of course, another possibility is your first hole just grazed the edge of a stud, and 16" away is just barely beyond the other.

  1. Walls are almost never plumb

  2. Walls are almost never square

  3. Studs can be anywhere or nowhere within a given wall.

  4. It’s best to know 1-3 before you start a project.
    These are some of the very first lessons I learned as a homeowner, some 17 years ago. Also:

  5. Wiring color codes (red, white, black, bare) are only a suggestion.

  6. If, while installing a garage door opener, you short the circuit and cannot figure out how to get power back, check the GFC outlet in the closest bathroom or kitchen.

And the top two rules of homeownership:

  1. If you are not the first owner of the house, assume everything has been altered or installed by a do-it-yourselfer and no rules or reason were applied.
  2. If you are the first owner of the house, asume the builder was a compete hack and no rules or reason were applied.

Sometimes when framing, outlet placement turns out inconvenient, so another stud is thrown in so the electrical box is where they want it to be.

The summer camp I used to work at was built haphazardly. This summer I was helpoing my boss hand some siding, and he mentioned that “we need to nail here, because the studs are 16” on center.

I said: “Thats a mighty big assumption”.

He gives me a funny look and continues to hammer.

Nothing.
Me: “I told you so.”

I’m guessing that there used to be a window where the shelf is now mounted.

It is certainly possible that my 1st set of holes were not in the center of the stud (Tho I did try a bit less and a bit more than 16 inches)

No window - interior wall.

I’m going to see if I can rent a stud sensor and verify.

Brian

A decent stud-sensor is about $10.00 at Home Despot. Buy one.

I’ve bought two, one magnetic and the other one an electoronic sensor. Neither worked hardly at all. (I’ve since found out my studs are metal.)
(Hijack) Any suggestions on how to find metal studs? Also, can one use molly bolts to hang a bookself?

If you’ve got two studs at 32", I’m betting that there’s one in between. Could have been a window or something else there that they framed around too. Hanging a shelf w/ moly’s is OK as long as you don’t overload it. Depends on how many supports and how many bolts you use. Books would probably be too heavy. Remember to consider wiring and plumbing before you start drilling or hammering nails. Steel studs? Get a strong magnet.

I’m borrowing a stud finder from work. I’ll let people know the results.

(Once again - intereior wall - no window - unless there was window between the living room and bedroom closet)

Brian

So I guess the age old technique of simply tapping on the wall with a hammer and listening for the difference between a hollow space and a solid stud has gone out the window?

That’s what got me through the first 6 years of home ownership, including several renovation projects- all done to code, thanky vury much. Stud sensors? They’re for amateurs!!!- thought I, until I finally got one. Boy, they make life much easier, don’t they?

I’ll have to admit. I have one too. But I draw the line ( no pun intended ) with those laser level gizmos.

I received one of those as a gift. I’ve only used it to install chair rail, and I was grateful I had it.

I tried knocking the wall - I’m not good enough to tell a difference.

My studs are 16" on center - My known stud location wasn’t very centered and so I was just off on the second set of holes (by like 2 milimeters).
Altho I suspected this and tried bit on one side of that hole, for some reason I didn’t try on the other side :wally (I thought I did, but the holes tell a different story)

I still might go 32" and put in longer shelf(ves) (and have my barristers bookcase under)

Brian

Don’t worry, N91WP. There are two kinds of people-those who say they hit the studs every time, and liars. :wink:

So…you enjoy doing more work and having it take longer for no reason? :stuck_out_tongue: