Ok, I have determined that Pontiac Grand Ams (mine’s a '97) and simular vehicles have a chronic power window problem. My trouble started with it going up and down very slow, then it would stop before it was all the way up. I would have to wait a few minutes before it would go the rest of the way up. The waiting period got longer and longer over time, now it’s completly dead.
The question here is…is it the power window motor or regulator ? I just need to know what to buy before I attempt a transplant.
It sounds like the motor is dragging and a circuit breaker or PTC resistor is interupting the current to the motor to prevent an overheat / melt down.
This could be caused by a bad motor, but it may also be caused by the window dragging in the window channel.
Dragging windows can be caused by dirt, a worn channel, or a mis adjusted regulator. I would suggest removing the door panel and verifying the window adjustment. Lubing the window channel with WD-40 or silcone may also help.
I’ve had this problem on a few GM’s and it is usually the overload protection going bad. The motor has a built in thermal switch. Current going thru it will heat it up and if it gets too hot (too much current being used) it will turn the motor off. It is necessary because if you hold down the UP button the window goes up and then hits the stops. Without the thermal switch the motor would burn out trying to push the window up against the stops. As it gets old the thermal switch can either make bad contact (window won’t move at all, then suddenly move a little and stop), or it can cut the power too soon (window moves for a second, stops. You wait and it moves again).
A jammed regulator or bad motor can give the same symptoms as the current needed to move the window is higher than normal, so the switch cuts in before the window is up or down.
So what should you do? The regulator is a fairly simple mechanical device that almost never goes bad unless someone was in there breaking it. I would get a new motor, and while I was replacing it, clean out the window tracks and regulator and lube it with some grease.
Be aware that most power window motors are riveted to the regulator and you have to drill the rivets out. The replacement motor will come with screws to replace the rivets.
We have a GMC Safari van. The driver’s side window had the exact same symptoms as the OP described.
I purchased a motor assembly from an online vendor. It was $50. The assembly contained the motor, gears, and PTC thermistor in a common housing. (My advice is to not be concerned if it’s the motor or PTC thermistor that went bad. Just replace the entire assembly.)
I took the door panel off, then drilled out the motor assembly. (It was riveted.) I then went out and purchased a rivet tool ($19) and riveted in the new assembly. Lastly I reinstalled the door panel. Works like a champ.
Just another data point to contribute to your theory here. I have a '94 Grand Am, bought it in 2000. In, oh, early 2002 or so, both windows started developing problems exactly as you’ve described. I had the driver’s side assembly replaced (by a professional, so I figure he did everything else they’re supposed to), and earlier this year I started having the same problem. I avoided rolling the window down for a few months (hasn’t been a problem with the weather how it is…), but recently I’ve started rolling it down for drive-thrus and the like, and, while it moves slowly, it’s ok for now.
I guess it’s possible I got TWO bad motors in the original car, and had a third installed as a replacement, but I’m not sure.
After you drill out the rivets, what can I expect to happen next? Will the motor fall out, or is there something else holding it in place? Mine’s behind a piece of sheet metal so I really can’t see anything. I’ve noticed that later models have a big hole so it’s easier to change the motor that Pontiac has noticed gets replaced alot. Guess that was easier then producing one that actually works for the long term.
I’ve only replaced the motor assembly on one vehicle (our 1997 GMC Safari), so I can’t say for sure if the procedure is identical on a Grand Am. But for what it’s worth, here’s what I did on the Safari:
Using duct tape, I held the glass in place by taping up and over the door frame. (The tape stuck to both sides of the glass.) Make sure you do this, else the window will fall when you remove the motor assembly!
I removed the door handle, trim pieces, panel, power window switch console, door lock assembly, power mirror switch assembly, etc. This includes disconnecting the electrical plug from each assembly.
I took a hand drill and drilled out each rivet around the motor assembly. I think I used a 1/8” bit.
The motor assembly fell out.
I disconnected the electrical plug from the motor assembly. The old motor assembly went in the trash.
I connected the electrical plug onto the new motor assembly.
I installed the new motor assembly using steel rivets.
I reinstalled all the other crap (door handle, trim pieces, panel, power window assembly, door lock assembly, power mirror assembly, etc.)
Everything sounds good except for the duct tape. I have tinted windows so maybe I’ll try wedging a block of wood under the window inside the door frame. Thanks!