Question for Structural Engineers or Contractors

Factual Questions
1

So, I’ve got this basement. Running down the middle, perpendicular to the joists above is a wall. Double plate above, about 26 feet long. There is a doorway at one end, and therein lies the rub. The stairs come down right to the doorway, and make getting anything like furniture into the front room difficult. Couple this with another parallell wall a couple of feet away, and anything bigger than a breadbox is impossible.

I’m in the process of making that room a gym/rec room, but I’m stuck.
My sister gave me a sofa whose dimensions simply will not allow it to navigate the small path that I have.

My question for you brainy types is this: Can I take out two of the studs in the wall temporarily, scooch Sofasauraus through the opening, and put them back without dropping my upstairs on my downstairs? Can I put more studs/support jacks on either side of the opening to take the load, or am I asking for a head/whole body injury?

I’d love to replace that wall with a big-ass I beam that supports the house, but I’ve misplaced my trillion dollar bill somewhere.
Data: ranch, 3000 sq. feet, basement below - 1/2 on slab, the rest dirt crawlspace.
Slab is approx 24’ x 24’ with the wall running down the middle of the slab, door at one end.

2

That’s it? The center where sets of joists meet is only a double-plated 2x4 wall? Everything I’ve seen the center beam was a collection of 3 or 4 2x10’s (or in my new house, an iron beam.)

When my favourite home reno guy, Holmes n Homes, wants to fix this situation, he puts a support beam beside the support wall so it still supports all the joists (or, put a beam on both sides). Then he uses a jackpost (steel post with screw adjustments) every few feet or for a short run, at each end.

It can be done, but IANAEetc,
First, ask a real engineer or construction contractor.
Second, how are you going to make sure the replaced studs are tall enough to not create a sag afterwards?