Today I set about replacing a bunch of chandelier sockets that have gone out. Many of them were straightforward, but some are giving me a puzzle.
For those, the socket fried out and disintegrated the ends of the wires, so now I’ve got wires that are too short, and which don’t have the appropriate hook on the end (see example of intact, unfried wire-end below).
I see on the interwebs that there are some kinds of extensions you can buy, though many of them seem too bulky to fit into the little area of the socket…ideally, I just want a hook with a narrow neck than can be crimped. And I do see some of those, but I’m also unsure of the size/gauge of the wire.
It also seems like I could extend the wire some other way and just hook it around the post, though that’s less satisfactory, and feels a little untidy? Dangerous?
I could also get a new lamp, but that’s way down the list.
Any thoughts appreciated. 
I’ve done a lot of electrical work in my time and in fact installed a new light fixture in my dining room yesterday.
But I’m not sure what you’re talking about with chandelier sockets. Is this one fixture with many sockets. Can you provide more pictures maybe?
If we’re talking about a single fixture with many sockets and some of the wire has deteriorated badly, I would take the entire fixture down and go through the slow process of rewiring it.
If we’re talking about separate sockets, I really need to see a picture from further out. But generally speaking, it sound like the wire from the box to the fixture should be replaced.
Yeah, each arm of the chandelier has a socket that can be removed and replaced (and that’s all the chandeliers we have, not just that one…the sockets are common enough that my local Home Depot has them).
I’m not sure I’m ready for a whole rewiring effort, at least not yet…six of the arms work fine, but maybe you’re saying the wiring in the other two can’t be depended on?
I would not keep any of the existing wiring if you really want to keep that chandelier. The picture above shows improper and dangerous use of hook lug. Find where the power cord is connected to all the individual sockets and replace the wires pack to there. Depends on what you find there to continue. Best if there’s some kind of terminal block.
Wait, why is the hook lug improper and dangerous? What’s the right way to connect to the socket posts?
The hook needs to wrap around the screw.
I’m aware. I took it off the screw so you could see the connector.
I usually twist the ends of the wire and wrap the wire around the screw in the direction the screw tightens.
I don’t trust my crimping, and if I use a hook or eye connector, I solder it.
No offense, but are you sure you want to DIY it?
OK.
If the wires are too short, you can solder on extensions, and insulate with heat shrink.
No, I’m not sure, but I’ll take a run at something before I buy a new thing or try to get it repaired (“buy” seems slightly more likely in this case).
The soldering is interesting, because three of the lamps have hook lugs but no soldering, and the fourth has soldering but no hook lugs. I guess there’s no standard.
Anyway, I appreciate all the thoughts.
I’m sure there is a standard in the codes. You might check and repair it that way.
A professional repair would probably cost more than a new fixture. So giving it a try at least at repairing it yourself is a good idea indeed.
Careful crimping is actually pretty effective. But crimp well and test the crimp. It met Navy standards, it should be plenty good for a chandelier just hanging statically. Wire splice crimps are probably a reasonable way to extend the wires in this case. If you’re not 100% sure on crimping, watch a few videos on it.
I said I didn’t trust MY crimping. Weak wrists or something. = )
Might need a better crimping tool is all or need to watch a few videos and do some test crimping. I still use the same simple generic crimping & stripping tool I used 35 years ago in the Navy. But they make some fancy ones these days that add mechanical advantage. There are reasonable priced ones better than I use with nicer handles and easier crimping.
Look for WAGO wire connectors to make extensions. No soldering or twisting required. You should crimp on or solder on spade lugs to connect to screws like that. If the screw has a large enough head you can make a loop at the end of the wire instead of using a lug. If you do crimp it has to be done right so the wire is solidly stuck in the connector.