My coolant level was down abt.a quart at the oil change.The 3rd straight time (this would be roughly 10k miles in summer and winter driving)this has happened.
I asked of possible causes of coolant loss besides the radiator itself,which has no noticeable leaks and was serviced within the last year (flushed on a machine)
I notice congealed coolant sediment at the filler cap on the whatever you call it plastic reservoir you put the coolant into.
The worker there said could be radiator cap,and I’m thinking may be logical since it’s a pressurized system,and pressure to me spells forceful water spurts.
He checked the cap (with me watching) on a hand gizmo that measured the 16 pressure when he pumped it,but then slowly decreased to abt.7 (in the 2nd group of figures) of that gauge.
Tells me the cap should be replaced.I naturally declined at those prices (did I really see 69.95 in that list?),saying I’d prefer the Motorcraft one,since it’s original equipment.
My question.
What should I expect to pay for a reliable cap,and what are those brand names. Can I get a quality one at Checker,et.al.or would a dealer be a better (tho more expensive) choice?
This along with the air filter is one of the few jobs I’m willing to tackle on a car.I know enough to wait until before the first time of the day I’m going to start it up to take off the cap,ensuring no injuries.
Stant is about as good as a brand as you’ll find, and you can find them at Kragen/Checker/PepBoys for usually ten bucks or less. They should have a gizmo there to plug in the make, model and year of your car to find the right cap.
That’s correct, a faultypressure cap can cause coolant loss.
Cap prices vary depending on the cap design. The large “old style” (twist/lock) caps are the least expensive (5-10?), the small twist lock ones somewhat higher (x2?), some of the threaded ones get pretty dear. Good quality is available in the aftermarket – tell them that’s what you want, rather than a “budget” cap. Whatever brands they carry, I’m sure they offer a quality choice. Verify that the replacement cap matches the original one – I have seen some incorrect listings in parts catalogues.
Be aware that the small twist lock cap style comes in two versions. The difference is in the distance from the lower seal (that goes down into the radiator neck) to the upper casing (what you see when it’s installed). This is where I’ve found incorrect parts listings. Compare the old and new caps carefully.
The lever type cap is a gimmick that adds unnecessary complexity to solve a virtually nonexistent problem. You’re fine without it.