At my workplace, which has a fairly formal and conservative culture, the gentlemen’s unwritten but very-much-collectively-understood dress code is as follows:
- All must wear shoes, trousers (pants), an ironed shirt and a neck-tie.
- A jumper (pullover) over the shirt and tie is technically an option, but is a maverick, irreverent and subversive move.
- Likewise, flamboyantly-patterned shirts and ties are technically admissible, but would not be seen worn by anybody with aspirations to management.
- A matching 2-piece suit is de rigueur, although senior managers may get away with a jacket that does not match the trousers (pants)
- A waistcoat (vest) may be worn instead of or as well as a suit jacket, although this is usually only for more senior gentlemen
- Additional approved flourishes are tie clips, lapel pins and double-cuffs with cuff-links
- A handkerchief in the breast pocket is considered unacceptably gauche for all but the most senior management
- Suit colours generally should match the season - a very light suit in December would be considered odd, while a light blue suit in the summer would be considered tasteful.
- Shoes should be black - possibly brown if the season and accompanying fabric colours allow it
The dress code for ladies is…
- anything that at least covers the chest down to the knees - with nothing showing between. And something on the feet.
In reality, some women - especially those higher in the hierarchy - pretty much wear the female equivalent of what the men wear (suits, shirts, ‘smart’ blouses, black shoes, etc…). Plenty don’t, though - sleeve-less tops, dresses with floral prints, jeans and sneakers all protagonise. If I came into work wearing jeans and a Hawaiian shirt people would *be gravely concerned about me *, and if I walked in with my bare shoulders showing I would (I expect) be politely escorted off the premises.
I have spent the last few years pondering this. My workplace is perhaps an extreme example - but I’ve seen this elsewhere: in workplace situations where men are expected to don shirts and ties, women seem to get away with a more acceptable range of variety and less apparent formality (at least, in the lower ranks).
A knee-jerk reaction to this situation may be a kind of indignant Men’s Rights Activist-style “It’s sexism! Misandry! Double standards! One rule for them and another for us!”. Poor old men, goes the idea, being held to unfair higher standards than the slothful and slovenly lady-folk. Perhaps. But in virtually every other walk of life women - rightly or wrongly - spend more time caring (and being judged) about their appearance than men do. Why would the workplace be a sudden reversal of that?
Ladies, of course, aren’t expected to wear *identical *clothes to men in the workplace. Partly this is biological; button-down shirts don’t work for all female body shapes. It’s also cultural - a woman wearing a man’s getup (as described above) would be seen to be making a fairly bold statement. But the female equivalent of the man’s shoes+shirt+tie+suit certainly exists (usually with peculiar diminutive amendments to sleeve length, collar width, etc.) - it just seems that a) there is less of an expectation that ladies should don it, even when there is one for the guys, and b) they frequently opt not to, instead going for something more comfortable and casual. And who can blame them, you might say…
(Then, there are the exceptions - cases where subordinate women in client-facing roles have been ordered to wear high-heels and skirts when they would rather not - is this a similar kind of sexism that obliges men to wear ties but not women? Or something more sinister? Dunno…)
The thing is - rightly or wrongly - the way we present ourselves at work matters. Most or all of us make assumptions and generate impressions of people based on how they are dressed; put simply, in a formal environment a person (male or female) in a suit carries more professional weight, respectability and gravitas than one in jeans and a sleeve-less top. Consequently, my female colleagues collectively put themselves at a disadvantage by not suiting-up. Are they not aware of this? Or do they know it but don’t care? Or, am I even reading this right? Is there something I’m missing?
Okay, ramble over - your thoughts welcome