Rear rotor removal on a 2000 Lincoln Town Car

I have the caliper off, but the rotor will not budge at all. Any ideas on what could be holding the rear rotor in place?

I heard that the factory riveted the fronts in place, but I see nothing at all holding the rear passenger side on, yet it still won’t come off.

Any ideas?

Turns out it’s hung up on the parking break. Anyone know how to dissassemble it?

Ok, first depressurize the annular preventers, then deactivate the shear rams… oh wait, wrong thread.

What makes you think this? With most brake designs, if the parking brake is disengaged, the rotor should just slip right off. Unless you have some reason to think otherwise (is the brake dragging?) the rotor is probably just rusted on there. This is very common. The best solution is to hop in your time machine and use some anti-sieze on the mating surface when installing the rotor. Don’t have a time machine? That’s too bad. Just do it when you reinstall it this time.

In the here and now, liberal use of the BFH (big… friendly… hammer) is usually what is needed to get it loose. A rubber mallet is ideal, but a small sledge can work if you’re careful not to dent up the braking surface or the cooling fins. Some penetrating oil (not WD40) around the mating surface might help too.

That’s been my experience. Since he’s trying to take the rotor off though I assume he doesn’t care if he damages it, a new one is going on.

I’d go few a few solid whacks with the hammer before spending time investigating other methods.

Of course an actual mechanic will come through now and explain how Lincoln Towncar’s don’t use floating rotors.

After 7 months I think I may try again this weekend.

Anyone know if there could be any mechanical bond other than just rust that I should be aware of for that car? I’ve searched and so far really haven’t found much useful info for the Town Car.

Also, I’ll be putting new rotors on, so hammering them to hell doesn’t bother me (except if it turns out there was something other than rust holding them on).

If the rotors have never been removed, which is possible, my rear rotors lasted close to 10 years, they may have retainer washers on the studs.

If so, cut them off.

I didn’t see any retaining washers on the studs.

If I decide to use heat, are there any seals close to the axle ends that I should be aware of?

Look, you are going about this all wrong!.. Here is the tried and true method of removing a rear rotor from almost any automobile. Get that sucker up to 60-70 miles an hour, do a half bootlegger and try and angle the problem wheel into a curb or other solid object. The rotor should come right off.

Sorry., I couldn’t resist.

The prvious poster’s advice above sems pretty good actually. Be sure to use prenetrant on the retainer rings after cutting, and mechanical force is always better than heat, so try prying and pulling first.

Good luck!


I gather the rotor (and wheel) will rotate normally.

If the rotor will move laterally some, but hangs up and won’t come off, the parking brake (not break, dammit!:)) adjustment will need to be backed off.

If the rotor won’t budge at all, it’s held by rust. I would not use heat here for fear of comprimising the strength of the hub. Penetrating oil and generous use of a BFH* should break it free.

ETA: Some rotors have threaded holes on their lateral faces so that bolts can be screwed into them to act as a puller to extract the rotor from a tight fit on the hub. If your rotors have these, try this first. If there are no such holes, or if the holes strip out, it’s hammer time.

*Big f#cking hammer.

Thanks. The rotor would not budge an inch and I was a bit worried about hammering on it given it’s not my car (favor for a friend).

So, penetrating oil and a BFH are in order.

Mechanical-type here. I’m pretty sure the rear rotors on the TC are floating, meaning they **should **just come off. Just make sure the parking brake isn’t set.

See that big hole in the middle? It’s fitting around a short “post” if you will, right? Good.
PB Blaster or other penetrating oil, and a BFH are called for.

Whack the edge of the rotor horizontally, towards the car - on the flat, not the edge.
Hit it at 9 o’clock, then 3 o’clock, repeat as necessary. You just need to break the bond between the inside of your middle hole and its neighbor the “post”.

When loose, pull at 3 and 9 alternately until you fall on your ass. Have your spouse document this for us.

Fit new rotor. I suggest you have them turned first.
Yeah, I know they’re supposed to be true, but they’re not. They’ve been on the deck of a ship that came from Mexico or China for months, and have gotten hot and cold and they’re warped just a teeny bit. Ten bucks apiece now will eliminate that shudder as you brake, and you won’t have to pull it all apart to do it later.

Trust me. Have I ever steered you wrong?